Bill's 1 Ton TJ Build

[RnnngTrails]

What lift Did you decide to run. The Clayton w/ 5" stretch. I'm looking to that one to but cant decide if i wanna run that one or the 7" stretch double triangulated system. Choices, choices...   

Rock Krawlers Kit puts you out to a 102" WB. With the 5.5" lift you fit 37's and with the 7" lift you can fit 40's. If I were gonna stretch, that'd be my route.

P.S.: Fun Fact about Rock Krawler... They give a "return customer" discount. I went to them for a few of their other parts (Lower Control Arm mounts and some tie rod joints/ control arm joints) and they gave me a discount since I had already bought one of their systems.

[Bill3753]

What lift Did you decide to run. The Clayton w/ 5" stretch. I'm looking to that one to but cant decide if i wanna run that one or the 7" stretch double triangulated system. Choices, choices...   

I found a guy in Western Mass selling off new parts he bought for his YJ project.  From that, I got the rear Clayton 5" stretch kit with high clearance mounts plus upper and lower spring perches, a new high lift jack (brand name), and front blisten shocks all for $1300.00.  With all the extra Clayton brackets and upgrades that kit alone would have been over $1500.00, so I got a good deal there.

I wanted the 5" stretch because I am not going to comp cut it.  I'll be pushing it to the max for requiring one, but it'll still be full bodied with a high line.

Their 7" kit is nice, but I didn't want the comp cut so it wouldn't work for me.

Thats a very rust free jeep noticing by the pics. You picked a good jeep to start this type of project on. Im looking forward to seeing this project done. Keep up the great pics of your progress. This thing is going to be a moster. You did say 37's before & now your going 38's. Now thats just going to be freakin awsum. Can't wait!!!

The fact that it is so rust free is why I bought it.  It could have been stock and in the shape its in and I would have bought it.  I plan to keep it that way too.  While I have everything out, its all getting a fresh coat of a POR-15 type paint.

The 38's were more a matter of luck.  Stock they had 21/32" of tread depth.  These are used and have 20/32" of tread remaining, so their basically new.  The guy I got them from had them on a 4 door silver rubicon JK and went up to 40's shortly after getting them.  Combine that with the fact that they are over $400.00 each with shipping and I got 5 for $1000.00, well I couldn't pass it up.

Here is one next to my 33's, lol.

[Bill3753]

Oh, almost forgot to talk about the work I completed tonight.

No pictures yet, but the center skid is now removed, the transfer case is set temporarily set to the height it will be at for mock up of the rear 4 link and setting pinion angles, and about 3/4 of the factory suspension brackets on the passenger side frame rail have been removed.  I would have got both sides cleaned of all brackets tonight, but the skid took longer then expected to pull due to an overly stubborn bolt that had to be cut off.

[Swagger]

Sounds like some awsome deals fell into your lap. And those 38's are sick. cant wait to see it whin its done. Kinda like a preview of what mine will look like, except for the body color.   

[Bill3753]

So, I got some more work done on it last night.  All of the stock rear control arm brackets are now removed.  I left the stock upper spring buckets on the frame for now so I can use them to help locate the new rear axle with the stretch.  Once I have the new control arm brackets on the frame and the axle mocked in, I will remove them and notch the frame for the stretch.

I found that the easiest way to remove the frame brackets is to cut along the stock weld with a cutting wheel, but not too deep as to cut into the frame.  Then, cut the bracket itself along its bends so it can be removed in sections.  This allowed me to bend the brackets back and forth until the weld broke.  If you do this, you’re left with about a third to half of the original welds which are easy to grind smooth.  I'll post some pictures tonight of the results.

Last night I also took all the measurements I need on the new axle so I can properly locate the new control arm brackets, truss, and spring pads.  I plan on making up an AutoCAD type technical drawing of where everything will be to post on here.  I don't have AutoCAD anymore, so it probably will not be to scale.  Nevertheless, it I think it would be nice to show everyone.

Today, I am going to be positioning the new rear axle under the Jeep and starting to mock all of the new brackets for the arms into place.  With any luck, I may even be able to cycle the suspension by hand and check for binding.

I’ll defiantly post some updated pictures tonight.  There should be some good ones.

[Bill3753]

I’ll defiantly post some updated pictures tonight.  There should be some good ones.

So anyways, I ended up getting rather sick for about three days.  Before that, it was my wife and baby who had it.  Needless to say I'm just now getting some progress made on the project.  I even have some updated pictures as promissed.

Anyways, here we go.

Everything but the truss is tacked into place.  The tack welds are just light for now so I can take it apart if needed, so don't mind the crapy looking welds.  Should be able to cycle to check for binding tomorrow night.  After that, I'll switch the welder over to 0.035" wire and stitch it all down correctly.

[skibum]

I just love seeing stuff like this. Keep the pics comming Bill.

[Swagger]

Please tell me you are gonna do some extra bracing on that truss. That is the one thing i wish Clayton would do. Beef up the rear truss pieces. There's just not enough metal there for me.

[Flex]

its more of a mount for the upper arms then it is a truss do u really think u needs to truss a 14 bolt while running 38's. i like over kill to, but he could run 42's on that setup

[skibum]

its more of a mount for the upper arms then it is a truss do u really think u needs to truss a 14 bolt while running 38's. i like over kill to, but he could run 42's on that setup

And also the jeep is not that heavy.  Its a TJ. Not a JK.

[Swagger]

When you start articulating that setup with the truss mounted to the diff at only 2 points, and start throwing the torque at it from the supercharger, that is A LOT of stress on what, maybe8-10 total inches of weld. I'm not saying it's a bad setup, just that you can never be to safe with you investment. 

[skibum]

If it does fail then Bill will beef it up. Im shure of that. 
Hay Bill! When your ready to test this Monster Rig out I feel that BTC would be your best testing grounds because it's close & very tough. Also would make some great pics. I want to be there when your doing this.

[Bill3753]

If I brace the truss, I'll weld an additional support to the back of the truss tube and have it bolt to a bracket welded to the differental cover.  Its a easy and common way to add extra support to the 4 link trusses.

I also don't think I will need it and because of that I may not.  The only reason I was considering it is because its really quick and easy to do.  Also, since I'd build it all myself it would be cheap as well.

On a different note, getting the 4 link to this point was interesting.  Originally, I thought this was a TJ specific 5" Stretch kit.  That would allow me to simply follow the Clayton directions, tack weld it all into place, and call it good.  Easy day, right?  Answer... Wrong.  Turns out it was a standard TJ 4 link kit originally.  Then, since the guy was back halfing the frame of his YJ during the install he tailored it with Clayton to fit his needs.  This all means the lower arms are about 31"-32" long while the TJ 5" stretch arms are 35"-36".  I already know what your thinking (ask me how I know), just move the brackets back, right?  Answer... kind of.  I moved the brackets back, but it takes a whole lot more to set it up and keep all the 4 link angles correct when you move them back.  The Clayton frame brackets are specifically designed to match the curve on at TJ's frame to make it easy to set the 4 link angles.  When you move them back, you have nothing to referance off since the frame straightens out.  Additinally, the centerline of the 3.5" axle tube on the 14 bolt is farther back then a Dana 44, 8.8, or even a Dana 60.  Heck, most 14 bolts only have 3.25" tubes.  Since mine is out of a cab and chassis truck, the tubes are larger.  Anyways, this all means the axle would be back farther then it would be with one of those other axles.

So whats this all mean?  You can't just move the brackets back 5" and get a 5" stretch out of it.  With my set up, it would have gave me closer to a 8" stretch in doing that (once again, ask me how I know).  Anyways, since I was setting it up my own way already, I also set the lower links farther apart to maximize the trangulation of the lower links (not too much though).  I then set the frame brackets accordingly to match and still meet up correctly with the angles needed for the 4 link truss. 

Once I got all the numbers straight, angles straight, and 4 link numbers right I was then and only then able to set it all up.  I spent more time setting it up on paper then I did under the Jeep. 

[Flex]

sounds like you took the easy way, its always easier to crunch numbers then it is to just start welding shit together then realize u just f'd it all up.

[Swagger]

You could have just sold the stuff you couldn't quickly use, called clayton, and started with stuff taylored to your build. I know, cheap is sometimes better.