Bill's 1 Ton TJ Build

[Bill3753]

what are the specs on the 60 it sounds like a late model combo from a ford f350 and where are you finding the 37's at 

are you willing to strap them to a pallet and hip them to illinios

The set I found was $600 for a HP60 and $200 for the Sterling 10.25 both out of the same 93 F350.  I called him and he said that the front was missing the lock out hubs and brake calipers.  After reading into the swap a bunch more though, I don't think the newer HP60 is the way to go.  It can be used, but it is not as easy of a swap and best done by cutting the tube length on the passenger side.  So no go, at least for me, with that front.  I will probably go and take a look at the rear though.

I talked to another guy tonight.  He has a HP60 out of a 79 F350.  The 78-79 F350 HP60 has a longer driver's side axle tube and is much more desirable for a swap into a TJ.  He makes it sound like the axle is in near perfect condition with 4.10 gears.  He's asking $700.00 for it, so I will probably go and get it.  From everything I have read, its hard to find the 78-79 F350 HP60 for less then $1000.00, so $700.00 would be a great deal.

Once I start getting a few more of the big parts in, I will start a new thread for the build.  I am looking forward to getting it going.  Obviously, everyone can tell by now which direction I decided on.  So far, the parts I am loking to use are as follows:

79 F350 HP60 4.10 gears - $700.00
93 F350 Sterling 10.25 4.10 gears (welded) - $200.00
TNT HP60 Front Axle Truss and Brackets (Part Number TNT-TT-1185) - $474.70 w/ all front brackets
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1559
Poly Performance TJ Rear Axle Bracket Kit - $225.00
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/97-06-Jeep-TJ-Rear-Bracket-Kit-p-16942.html
Nate, what you think of those bracket kits?  I know I could get just the front brackets for about $50.00 less, but I figure why not get the kit that will also give me a truss while I am at it.

I’ll then use the H1 Double Beadlock rims and Military Goodyear 37’s.  I know the tires are not ideal, but air them down enough and they should do ok.

The things I have not quite figured out yet is what to do for the steering.  I have a whole steering set up from an old fullsize Ford already.  I don’t know if I can take parts for it and make it work in my TJ?  I’m not sold on building a OTK steering set up as yet, but who knows.  Also, I need to figure out if the current location of my gas tank will clear the Sterling 10.25 Rear.  After I get it all in there, I will get the drive shafts made.  I already have a Super Short SYE and a few other parts I needed anyways.  I will install them as I do this build.  No point in doing it all then pulling it all apart again .

[Bill3753]

Bob, ever wonder what your Rubi would look like with the H1 beadlocks and 37's?

[Flex]

TNT makes great stuff that truss should work out great for you it will take all the guess work out of it for ya. However dont forget to turn the front knuckles. other than that you should be able to just burn the truss on and bolt it in. As far as steering goes i would recommend a high steer arm for the passenger side knuckle and have the drag link bolt in there, then ream out the standard holes and run a simple tie rod over the knuckle to connect the axles. This way ur not spending to much on high steer arms you can get one for around $100 on partsmike.com and then we u decide u need hydro assist ur tie rod it already in a very good position to mount it up.

Keep the questions coming keep in mind im nearing completion on the almost identical build so i have already thought about and reasearched most of the thing u will run into.

[skibum]

Bob, ever wonder what your Rubi would look like with the H1 beadlocks and 37's?

Thats a sweet looking rig. Needs a little more lift tho.

Are the H1 Rims the only Dubble Beedlock rims out there & are they overkill?  I no you are getting a good deal but just want to no if single beedlock rims are just fine for extream trail riding. Im shure the dubble beedlock rims are extreamly tough but im not planing on driving over any IED's out on the trail. .  Correct me if im wrong but even the rigs running the Baha 1000 only run single beedlocks. Don't get me wrong on Dubblelock rims because I had the Hyperteck carbon fiber Dubble beedlock rims on my 300ex quad & loved them but dont plan on driving my jeep like the quad.(that would be fun tho)

I also have to add that even tho the GM14 is stronger than the Sterling or D70 it will be plenty strong enough for you build. If you went with 40" tires or larger then there might be an issue with breakage. Also correct me if im wrong but the aftermarket offers much more goodies for the GM14 than the Sterling. Did you ever look into the AAM axels or are they not good for your build?? Also not a lot of aftermarket parts for these axels but very strong. Should be plenty in the Salvage yards. Could be pricy tho.

[Bill3753]

I'll leave the single or double beadlock question to someone else who has run them as I have not.  I just planned on running these H1 double's as they are cheaper than anything else with a beadlock.

As for the 14 Bolt and Sterling rears, they really are about the same.  I want the Sterling as it has better ground clearance by about 2" over the 14 bolt.  From the reading I have done, the biggest difference is the 14 bolt has three pinion shaft bearing where the Sterling has two.  That being said, there are still guys running both with 44's without issues.  The Sterling gets used allot in the Bronco/F-150 community (where I was at before Jeeps) and those guys do some crazy things on a 103" wheelbase 79 Bronco with that axle in the rear.  It will more than handle the 37's and weight of my Jeep.  The gets used a bunch where the Sterling is a less popular axle.  Many stay away from it because everyone and their brother runs a 14 bolt, so that is what they want.

As for aftermarket, the Sterling has a good selection of gears, spools, Detroit Lockers, ARB Lockers; I even think that Eaton has an E-Locker for it.  After market support is there, so that is really not an issue either.  The link below is actually a good thread on the Sterling.  To me, the first post sold me; full floater, cheap, easy to find, and strong as crap.

=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=940323&highlight=sterling+10+25

I don't know much about the AAM axles.  I just did a search on Google and found an old thread.  It basically said they are strong, but there is a very limited aftermarket for them.  With the HP 60 and Sterling, it will be an easier swap.  Heck, the truss with brackets on it from TNT for the HP 60 is already built.  You just weld it on and go with little alignment issues to worry about.  Like Nate said, still have to turn the knuckles, but that would be with another I suppose.

[skibum]

Everything you are adding to your Jeep will hold up just fine. The only thing that might give you trouble is the stock 231 T case. I assume thats what you got in there right now. Its still a tough T case but turning thoes 1 Ton axels,heavy H1 wheels with the 37" mil spec tires will put some heavy stress on the stock 231. It might hold up ok for a wile but that Supercharged motor will push that 231 to its limmits. Tho I will say this that you can find 231's cheep. There everywhere. Keep a spare in the back.

[BlacXJeep]

^ i hear someone whispering, (ATLAS, ATLAS...)

[kirksjeep]

The only thing that might give you trouble is the stock 231 T case. I assume thats what you got in there right now. Its still a tough T case but turning thoes 1 Ton axels,heavy H1 wheels with the 37" mil spec tires will put some heavy stress on the stock 231. It might hold up ok for a wile but that Supercharged motor will push that 231 to its limmits. Tho I will say this that you can find 231's cheep. There everywhere. Keep a spare in the back.

x2

1 ton running gear and high horepower will need a 1 ton transfer case.  The aluminum case and chain will not hold up to tho that kind of weight and HP.  There is a guy around the corner with a YJ that snapped the NP231 with a mildly built Chevy 350 and 35's at a stop light in 2wd.  Also, do you have the AX-15 or the NV3500?  I would expect that it too would be at the limit of it's strength.  I would look into the NV4500 tranny with what you are planning. 

[Bill3753]

I have the NV3550 and NP231.  I will run them as long as I can.  At some point I might swap a Dana 300 or NP205.  If I go to the NP205 I would probably swap in a ZF-5 speed at the same time.  The ZF-5 is a 5 speed overdrive transmission out of F-250/350's and is very stout.  Both of those would be in the future though.

As for the now though, its offical.  This is going to happen.

Dana HP60 out of a 1979 F-350.

[Bill3753]

Found a guy on craigslist with the Military 37's at a great price.  $60 each with 90% tread or better.  I will going to get 5 here soon.  If anyone wants some too, this is cheaper then anywhere online.  We could split fuel cost there and back (about $50 in the diesel F250).  $300 for a set of 5 37's is a great deal.

[Bill3753]

Got the parts for the front on order.  Ended up going with the TNT Truss kit with all the brackets.  Also, ordered new ring and pinion gears plus an install kit.  I decided on 5.13 gears.  I know that sounds low, but here are the numbers:

Stock 04 TJ Sport:
Tires - 225/75-15
Gears - 3.73
RPM's in 5th gear at 35mph - 1210
RPM's in 5th gear at 45mph - 1555
RPM's in 5th gear at 70mph - 2419

04 TJ Sport with HP60:
Tires - 37x12.5x16.5
Gears - 5.13
RPM's in 5th gear at 35mph - 1272
RPM's in 5th gear at 45mph - 1635
RPM's in 5th gear at 70mph - 2544

Other then that, I found a Detroit Locker for a 14 bolt rear new in the box on pirate cheap.  So, I bought it and its on the way as well.  Just need to find a 14 bolt rear now.  I know its odd that I bought a locker for a rear end I don't own yet, but it was too good of a deal to pass up.

Items left on my shopping list include a new tie rod setup, new drag link, new track for the front, one Dana 60 high steer arm,  5.13's for a 14 bolt, a 14 bolt install kit, rear TJ axle brackets or maybe a 4 link kit, wheels, and tires.  I should be going Monday or Tuesday to pick up the tires.  I'll get everything else as I progress through the build.

If anyone has the reamer needed to ream the tapper for a one ton 7/8" chevy tie rod, let me know.  I was thinking of buying one, but I hate to get it for one job.  Also, I once I start the swap I will probably swap my pittman arm for a stock one.  If anyone wants to swap with a drop arm let me know.

[calvynandhobbs]

I've got the reamer for going to Chevy tie rods. I'm running the JCR 1 ton steering with Chevy tie rods in my TJ currently.

[Flex]

i also would like to borrow ur reamer rodger

[Bill3753]

I think Nate will be ready for it before I would be.  That is as long as you don't mind us using it...

Just another update.  Found the 14 bolt rear tonight.  Its about 45 minutes away and the guy only wants $100.00 for it!  The pinion is froze in it, but that doesn't really bother me as I will be putting new gears and bearings in it anyways.  Now I am just trying to decide if I want to do a disc brake conversion for it.  I am thinking I will as those big drums are heavy.

[Flex]

i think if u have the money to do it now u should go a head and do it, b/c ull end up doing it later and its just easy to do now.