1982 CJ7

[skibum]

Brake out the pressure washer on that sucker 

[reptile610]

From the pics I can tell you that you have a stock D30 front axle and an AMC 20 in the rear. If you have the 4 spd manual trans it is probably the T4 since that is the most common, but some did come with a T176, which has a little lower first gear ratio.

a guy on GL4x4 said i have the SR4 trans and dana 300 transfer case. he also said dana 30 front, amc 20 rear. he said CJ's didn't come with track bars but he didn't mention anything about why my leafs are leaning like that. any ideas roger?

[reptile610]

Brake out the pressure washer on that sucker 

going to shortly, already bought the heavy duty degreaser 

[Mr Rock]

X2 on what Roger said, the big round cover on the rear is the 20, the CJ's had a two piece axle that is the weak point. someone makes a one piece axle for it which makes it a much stronger unit!

The leaf "leaning" is common with big shackles like what you have on there. add to that weak rubber bushings and that CJ will dart all over the road. get some poly bushings and beef up that front mount, better yet, do a shackle reversal, it will make your jeep handle much better. I'm looking to do one on my YJ.

[gearhead1985B]

belts replaced, and vacuum lines all done. moving onto the trans next weekend. think either the clutch is gone or the linkage isn't connected. it grinds when i push the clutch pedal in even when in neutral so im not sure.

you have an 82 and a hyrolic clutch there is no linkage

look at that little baby master next to the brake master that is for the clutch is it full of fluid and the grinding in the trans most likly means the trans is
dead  did you drain the fluid yet look for an off colored look i believe the sr4 was supposed to take atf so it should look red

 

From the pics I can tell you that you have a stock D30 front axle and an AMC 20 in the rear. If you have the 4 spd manual trans it is probably the T4 since that is the most common, but some did come with a T176, which has a little lower first gear ratio.

yes the on gl4x4 (now i got another thread to find) was right  he has an 82 and the pos sr4 trans

[calvynandhobbs]

I forgot this is a 4 cyinder and therefore the SR4 is correct. The 6s came with either the T4 or T176. With leaf springs you will not find track bars very often and Rock is correct, those long leaf hangers allow the leafs to twist and lean like they are. I haven't run a fully leaf-sprung vehicle in a lot of years and forget about a lot of that stuff.

[reptile610]

ok so doing more research and talking to others you guys have beat me to the punch on a few things

not supposed to be a track bar

leafs lean because of larger shackles

when i said linkage was because i was talking about the piece that goes into the transmission.

i got the jeep to move on its own power yesterday. the transfercase wasn't engaged fully. i pushed it all the way forward (4L), the 4wd light came on on the dash  and after putting it in gear it started to drive out of the garage 

this weekend im going to check the trans fluid to see the level and what it looks like. im told if it's really low it'd cause it to grind or it could be the throw out bearing.

also the SR-4 was only in 80-81 CJ7's also the narrow tracks last year was 81, in 82 the wide track came out. i measured my rear axle and it's 50" which means its a narrow track. i ran the VIN through my insurance company's website and it's an 82 so im guessing that it's an 81 drivetrain and frame with an 82 body.

[gearhead1985B]

did you cut your sway bar off yet if not you need to and get rid of them 2" lift shackles

[reptile610]

did you cut your sway bar off yet if not you need to and get rid of them 2" lift shackles

not yet. ive been told before that their is no point to keep it so itll get taken off when i do my steering upgrades. as for the shackles ill replace them when i do my suspension upgrades

[reptile610]

X2 on what Roger said, the big round cover on the rear is the 20, the CJ's had a two piece axle that is the weak point. someone makes a one piece axle for it which makes it a much stronger unit!

The leaf "leaning" is common with big shackles like what you have on there. add to that weak rubber bushings and that CJ will dart all over the road. get some poly bushings and beef up that front mount, better yet, do a shackle reversal, it will make your jeep handle much better. I'm looking to do one on my YJ.

ive heard about that. whats it do exactly?

[Mr Rock]

It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.

[gearhead1985B]

It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.

there is alot more to it then just relocating the mounts to the rear of the spring ds will need to be a longer slip and the shock mounts will need to possibly reworked and other things that i can't think of right now so

some of the cons it will increase brake dive dramatically and you will have to relocate the spring perches to set the correct caster 

[Mr Rock]

Adam is correct, I'm planning a SOA so some of that I tend to take for granted. I'm planning to move the front mount out an inch which should allow me to run my current DS.

[reptile610]

hm... we'll see. i plan on doing a SOA and a 1" body lift and running 35's. btw i got the jeep to move on it's own power the other day  transfer case wasn't fully engaged. i also checked the fluid of the trans and transfer case. they're both full but they were brown. i know they're like gear dope but is it supposed to be light brown? found a pin that held the clutch pedal in so thats fixed too. i guess next is brakes.

[skibum]

Actually the fluids should be a honey color so by the color your saying it sounds like water is mixed in with the fluid or it is just really old..(not good). I would recomend changing all fluids first but before waisting your cash on new fluids you should put it up on some good jack stands(recomend doing this with no wheels on so to be safe & put all lug nuts on to keep rotors & drums from flopping around) & run it through the gears in 4 wheel drive to make shure there are no strange noises from any bearings(t case,trans,f&r diffs) because no sence in waisting good expensive fluid on something that is going to need a rebuild. When draining any fluid it is a good idea to use a clean container so you can inspect the old fluid for internal wear. Fluid will have a mitallic sparkel if there is bearing wear(not good). Find a strong clean magnet & run it through the fluid & see if it picks up alot of metal debris. Even a small amount is not good but then again I can only imagin the amount of metal floating around in Rocks AX15 & that thing is still going. That shows how much abuse a manual trans can take before it finally quits(or will it quit)