JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: reptile610 on August 09, 2011, 12:56:46 AM
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so when i got back home i started going to college which is a 20 minute drive 1 way. so unfortunatly i had to sell the 05 LJ due to it only getting 10mpg freeway. traded it in for a 2011 dodge caliber which surprisingly is a very nice car. well.... i couldn't fight the itch any longer so after 2 months of being jeepless i went out and found a 1982 CJ7.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/287329_2088012692030_1596583943_32031597_6830863_o.jpg)
first picture of the toy on her way home
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/P8070030.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/283074_10150258046591555_564291554_8278713_1049579_n.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/P8070037.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/P8070040.jpg)
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specs as of now:
4 cly 2.5L "iron duke"
sr-4 manual trans
dana 300 transfer case
dana 30 front locked
amc 20 rear locked
3.73 gears
i don't know what type of lockers are in it but im told it's locked. if i take off the diff covers will it have a serial number or name on it?
questions? comments? smart a$$ remarks? ;D
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I see you had it carried to the house so does it run or did it come from too far of a distance and you didn't want to take a chance? If you take the diff covers off you still may not be able to tell what brand of locker it is, but you'll be able to tell if it is a lunchbox type locker, welded, spooled or Detroit. Because CJs have lockouts I've seen a lot of guys weld the spiders rather than actually using a locker for cost savings in the front.
Are you going to take it up to the Mounds or Bundy for its first off road excursion? I figured those are the two closest places to you.
Roger
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take a pic of the diffs and ill tell u what kind they are.
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take a pic of the diffs and ill tell u what kind they are.
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X2 on that. Just make shure you also get a close up shot of the Ring gear & carrier. If you rotate the carrier slowly & find numbers then get shots of those also. It Will help alot.
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im not sure where im taking it yet. still a long ways away from that. i had it towed because you have to pump the clutch and the brakes for them to work so i deemed it unsafe to drive home. when i open up the diffs i'll take pics for you guys. first thing is to start saving up money for parts. in the meantime im going to start sanding on the body to remove all rust. going to paint the tub black and im thinking lime green for the bumpers, sliders, and rollbar. ( i like to stick out ;D) plan on keeping the 2.5 until it blows up but as of right now it runs great, just have to get used to the manual choke is all. im currently in college and will graduate 2013 so maybe around the time i'll come out to connecticut and wheel with you guys.
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i had it towed because you have to pump the clutch and the brakes for them to work
really the lack of tail lights did not stop
or the lack of seat belts
you realize it has the wrong roll bar in 82 all jeeps had 3 point seatbelts that is all i see right now
the 151 will out last the sr4 and the amc 20 so start looking for parts to do a drive train swap
just bring it down to me leave the keys and a blank check and i will get you rolling right
smart a$$ remarks? ;D
i will get to these later
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im told that 151 is bullet proof. the roll bar was given to me but i plan on using that, putting in suspension seats and 4 point harnesses. first thing is sanding down the body and rust repair. then doing a complete tune up and changing all fluids. then im gonna learn how to drive stick ;D and slowly do my addons (armor first)
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then im gonna learn how to drive stick ;D and slowly do my addons (armor first)
So maybe it wasnt the whole clutch and brakes being finicky.. it's the learning how to drive with a clutch that put it on a flatbed? lol
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then im gonna learn how to drive stick ;D and slowly do my addons (armor first)
So maybe it wasnt the whole clutch and brakes being finicky.. it's the learning how to drive with a clutch that put it on a flatbed? lol
;D hahaha Yep, I think not knowing how to drive a stick had a lot to do with it being flatbedded to the house. Reptile, you have some work ahead of you, but you'll learn a lot along the way and you'll have a rig to go play on the trails with by the time you are done.
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i never tried on it. the guy who i bought it from said you had to pump them for them to work so therefore i didn't even try.
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also i lied about doing the body work as it will start getting cold and i don't want the paint to get messed up. so going to do all the mechanic work as of now.
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should i do a SOA conversion or just lift it? im reading alot of mixed reviews on it because it makes it kinda unsafe and ride like crap afterwards
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You need to know what you are doing to do a SOA conversion. It can be done to work well, but you have to be precise. For what you are doing I would stick with just a lift kit. My 86 CJ7 had a 4" spring lift with a 1" body lift and I ran 35s with no problem. Good shackles that allow for movement also helps with the articulation, but I'm not a fan of the boomerang shackles. I ran then for one run to the Badlands and the back end unloaded on me down a steep hill.
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should i do a SOA conversion or just lift it? im reading alot of mixed reviews on it because it makes it kinda unsafe and ride like crap afterwards
wtf did i build and i drove it from florida to illinios it is not unsafe just ditch the cj springs for some stock yj springs or even some waggy springs bring it to me and i will hook you up it will take about a month to build and year for testing
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should i do a SOA conversion or just lift it? im reading alot of mixed reviews on it because it makes it kinda unsafe and ride like crap afterwards
wtf did i build and i drove it from florida to illinios it is not unsafe just ditch the cj springs for some stock yj springs or even some waggy springs bring it to me and i will hook you up it will take about a month to build and year for testing
your crazy. but yeah i forgot u did yours. maybe i'll find somebody around who can do it but as of right now idk what im gonna do. wanna get it mechanically sound first ;D but i did read about the YJ springs which i did plan on doing if i do it. i honestly think im going to do the lift and tires last.
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the current goals and wants as of right now are as follows:
hi-fender tube fenders (probably from gen right)
corner crushers (idk if im going to do steel or aluminum but more than likely also from gen right)
poison spyder BFH stubby bumper (same one from the LJ)
LOD rear bumper/tire carrier (close to the same from the LJ but also has 2 jerry can mounts and a basket thats ontop of the tire)
Poison spyder sliders
winch (what lb should i get?)
rusty's HD tie rod and drag link
steering box brace (who makes a good one?)
suspension seats w/ 4 point harnesses
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http://www.rockhard4x4.com/category_s/76.htm
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your crazy
so your point is
let me build it i got lots of parts laying around to put a bad a$$ cj together you will like it i can take care of all the reliability issues as well and make it so you can drive it (aka put in an auto) i got a sbc th400 np205 combo just sitting here and i know where to find some rockwells
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your crazy
so your point is
let me build it i got lots of parts laying around to put a bad a$$ cj together you will like it i can take care of all the reliability issues as well and make it so you can drive it (aka put in an auto) i got a sbc th400 np205 combo just sitting here and i know where to find some rockwells
you still living in Illinois? maybe you should come stop by one day. as of right now im gonna get it mechanically sound. replacing all the vacuum lines next weekend followed by a new radiator, hoses, and thermostat. then possibly the electrical nightmare. i don't have your number anymore though so text me sometime so we can argue about this more efficiently.
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your crazy
so your point is
let me build it i got lots of parts laying around to put a bad a$$ cj together you will like it i can take care of all the reliability issues as well and make it so you can drive it (aka put in an auto) i got a sbc th400 np205 combo just sitting here and i know where to find some rockwells
you still living in Illinois? maybe you should come stop by one day. as of right now im gonna get it mechanically sound. replacing all the vacuum lines next weekend followed by a new radiator, hoses, and thermostat. then possibly the electrical nightmare. i don't have your number anymore though so text me sometime so we can argue about this more efficiently.
yes i am still in illinios
i just might swing by or mabey we could meet up on the trail there are a couple of decent parks half way between us
how do you loose my number twice i will text you the next time i have a doug moment
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[/quote]
yes i am still in illinios
i just might swing by or mabey we could meet up on the trail there are a couple of decent parks half way between us
how do you loose my number twice i will text you the next time i have a doug moment
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got a new phone. im sure we could meet somewhere but i doubt this pig will be ready anytime soon. im trying to balance it between working 60 hours a week and school. which works out cause i can save money in the mean time ;D
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just bought all new vacuum hoses and both belts yesterday, putting them on tonight/tomorrow.
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just bought all new vacuum hoses and both belts yesterday, putting them on tonight/tomorrow.
how did that turn out for you
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an 8000 lb winch is plenty for the CJ.
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an 8000 lb winch is plenty for the CJ.
sweet. i had a smittybuilt before but never had to use it so might just get another one.
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belts replaced, and vacuum lines all done. moving onto the trans next weekend. think either the clutch is gone or the linkage isn't connected. it grinds when i push the clutch pedal in even when in neutral so im not sure.
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got the skid plate/ cross member off today because i couldn't resist anymore ;D when you push the clutch in i can see the linkage move where it goes into the transmission. it grinds when you push it in even when in neutral. any ideas?
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progress so far
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_3019.jpg)
i have no idea wtf was in the back but it was rubbery and looked melted on. about 3/4 of it scrapped out so far. a hammer and chisel worked great ;D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1416.jpg)
took off the skid plate/ cross member. after this i realized that this is the only way the transmission/ transfer case is held up so i put a jack underneath it to support it instead of the engine mounts.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1422.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1421.jpg)
was hoping one of you guys could tell me what type of rear axle this is? i can't find any markings on either axles, transfer case, or transmission.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1425.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1424.jpg)
this is the front axle
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1423.jpg)
also if you guys look at the way my leaf springs sit they seem to sag off to the passenger side. also if you look closely i don't have a track bar. anybody know if i should? i don't see a mounting bracket anywhere for it.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1418.jpg)
rear view of my transfer case
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1417.jpg)
front view
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_1420.jpg)
probably the best picture i can get of my transmission. doubt it will help
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From the pics I can tell you that you have a stock D30 front axle and an AMC 20 in the rear. If you have the 4 spd manual trans it is probably the T4 since that is the most common, but some did come with a T176, which has a little lower first gear ratio.
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Brake out the pressure washer on that sucker ;D
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From the pics I can tell you that you have a stock D30 front axle and an AMC 20 in the rear. If you have the 4 spd manual trans it is probably the T4 since that is the most common, but some did come with a T176, which has a little lower first gear ratio.
a guy on GL4x4 said i have the SR4 trans and dana 300 transfer case. he also said dana 30 front, amc 20 rear. he said CJ's didn't come with track bars but he didn't mention anything about why my leafs are leaning like that. any ideas roger?
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Brake out the pressure washer on that sucker ;D
going to shortly, already bought the heavy duty degreaser
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X2 on what Roger said, the big round cover on the rear is the 20, the CJ's had a two piece axle that is the weak point. someone makes a one piece axle for it which makes it a much stronger unit!
The leaf "leaning" is common with big shackles like what you have on there. add to that weak rubber bushings and that CJ will dart all over the road. get some poly bushings and beef up that front mount, better yet, do a shackle reversal, it will make your jeep handle much better. I'm looking to do one on my YJ.
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belts replaced, and vacuum lines all done. moving onto the trans next weekend. think either the clutch is gone or the linkage isn't connected. it grinds when i push the clutch pedal in even when in neutral so im not sure.
you have an 82 and a hyrolic clutch there is no linkage
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/P8070040.jpg)
look at that little baby master next to the brake master that is for the clutch is it full of fluid and the grinding in the trans most likly means the trans is
dead did you drain the fluid yet look for an off colored look i believe the sr4 was supposed to take atf so it should look red
From the pics I can tell you that you have a stock D30 front axle and an AMC 20 in the rear. If you have the 4 spd manual trans it is probably the T4 since that is the most common, but some did come with a T176, which has a little lower first gear ratio.
yes the on gl4x4 (now i got another thread to find) was right he has an 82 and the pos sr4 trans
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I forgot this is a 4 cyinder and therefore the SR4 is correct. The 6s came with either the T4 or T176. With leaf springs you will not find track bars very often and Rock is correct, those long leaf hangers allow the leafs to twist and lean like they are. I haven't run a fully leaf-sprung vehicle in a lot of years and forget about a lot of that stuff.
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ok so doing more research and talking to others you guys have beat me to the punch on a few things
not supposed to be a track bar
leafs lean because of larger shackles
when i said linkage was because i was talking about the piece that goes into the transmission.
i got the jeep to move on its own power yesterday. the transfercase wasn't engaged fully. i pushed it all the way forward (4L), the 4wd light came on on the dash ;D and after putting it in gear it started to drive out of the garage ;D
this weekend im going to check the trans fluid to see the level and what it looks like. im told if it's really low it'd cause it to grind or it could be the throw out bearing.
also the SR-4 was only in 80-81 CJ7's also the narrow tracks last year was 81, in 82 the wide track came out. i measured my rear axle and it's 50" which means its a narrow track. i ran the VIN through my insurance company's website and it's an 82 so im guessing that it's an 81 drivetrain and frame with an 82 body.
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did you cut your sway bar off yet if not you need to and get rid of them 2" lift shackles
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did you cut your sway bar off yet if not you need to and get rid of them 2" lift shackles
not yet. ive been told before that their is no point to keep it so itll get taken off when i do my steering upgrades. as for the shackles ill replace them when i do my suspension upgrades
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X2 on what Roger said, the big round cover on the rear is the 20, the CJ's had a two piece axle that is the weak point. someone makes a one piece axle for it which makes it a much stronger unit!
The leaf "leaning" is common with big shackles like what you have on there. add to that weak rubber bushings and that CJ will dart all over the road. get some poly bushings and beef up that front mount, better yet, do a shackle reversal, it will make your jeep handle much better. I'm looking to do one on my YJ.
ive heard about that. whats it do exactly?
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It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.
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It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.
there is alot more to it then just relocating the mounts to the rear of the spring ds will need to be a longer slip and the shock mounts will need to possibly reworked and other things that i can't think of right now so
some of the cons it will increase brake dive dramatically and you will have to relocate the spring perches to set the correct caster
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Adam is correct, I'm planning a SOA so some of that I tend to take for granted. I'm planning to move the front mount out an inch which should allow me to run my current DS.
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hm... we'll see. i plan on doing a SOA and a 1" body lift and running 35's. btw i got the jeep to move on it's own power the other day ;D transfer case wasn't fully engaged. i also checked the fluid of the trans and transfer case. they're both full but they were brown. i know they're like gear dope but is it supposed to be light brown? found a pin that held the clutch pedal in so thats fixed too. i guess next is brakes.
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Actually the fluids should be a honey color so by the color your saying it sounds like water is mixed in with the fluid or it is just really old..(not good). I would recomend changing all fluids first but before waisting your cash on new fluids you should put it up on some good jack stands(recomend doing this with no wheels on so to be safe & put all lug nuts on to keep rotors & drums from flopping around) & run it through the gears in 4 wheel drive to make shure there are no strange noises from any bearings(t case,trans,f&r diffs) because no sence in waisting good expensive fluid on something that is going to need a rebuild. When draining any fluid it is a good idea to use a clean container so you can inspect the old fluid for internal wear. Fluid will have a mitallic sparkel if there is bearing wear(not good). Find a strong clean magnet & run it through the fluid & see if it picks up alot of metal debris. Even a small amount is not good but then again I can only imagin the amount of metal floating around in Rocks AX15 & that thing is still going. That shows how much abuse a manual trans can take before it finally quits(or will it quit)
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Actually the fluids should be a honey color so by the color your saying it sounds like water is mixed in with the fluid or it is just really old..(not good). I would recomend changing all fluids first but before waisting your cash on new fluids you should put it up on some good jack stands(recomend doing this with no wheels on so to be safe & put all lug nuts on to keep rotors & drums from flopping around) & run it through the gears in 4 wheel drive to make shure there are no strange noises from any bearings(t case,trans,f&r diffs) because no sence in waisting good expensive fluid on something that is going to need a rebuild. When draining any fluid it is a good idea to use a clean container so you can inspect the old fluid for internal wear. Fluid will have a mitallic sparkel if there is bearing wear(not good). Find a strong clean magnet & run it through the fluid & see if it picks up alot of metal debris. Even a small amount is not good but then again I can only imagin the amount of metal floating around in Rocks AX15 & that thing is still going. That shows how much abuse a manual trans can take before it finally quits(or will it quit)
i have a grinding sound when i push down on the clutch pedal. even when both trans and transfer are in neutral when i push down it grinds. also it might've been a honey color or abit darker. with my luck it's original from 82/81
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Does it grind when the engine it off?
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If it's running and in neutral with the clutch pressed in does it sound like a spinning grinding sound? One of my CJs had a throwout bearing that was going on it and it made a grinding like something was spinning inside.
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If it's running and in neutral with the clutch pressed in does it sound like a spinning grinding sound? One of my CJs had a throwout bearing that was going on it and it made a grinding like something was spinning inside.
never tried it when it's off. and it somewhat sounds like a spinning grinding sound. i'll let you guys know sunday night when i drive it on the jacks =]
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http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/?action=view¤t=MVI_1428.mp4
vid of me starting it and pushing in the clutch while in neutral. can you guys hear the weird sounds?
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I haven't been following along on this thread 100%, but it sounds like you have a bad throw out bearing, maybe more. I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. You should be able to buy all of it as a set.
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I haven't been following along on this thread 100%, but it sounds like you have a bad throw out bearing, maybe more. I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. You should be able to buy all of it as a set.
would this be the "clutch set" that is advertised on orielly's? price is around $200
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sigh* going out to drop the transmission. gonna drain the fluid out of it first and out of the transfer case. hey atleast now i can put it on the bench and get a good look at everything.
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would this be the "clutch set" that is advertised on orielly's? price is around $200
Each clutch set will come with different parts, but the norm is all those parts. Check with your supplier and see what they say their set offers. They'll be able to tell you.
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got the driveshafts out, unplugged what im guessing is the speedometer (idk some wire ;) ) problem is i have no jackstands and only 1 jack. i went to reposition my jack on the trans instead of the bellhousing and as i let it down i watched the engine go to damn near a 45 degree angle so i jacked it back up for the night. gonna go buy some jackstands tomorrow morning. the 4 bolts holding the trans to the housing are already broke free and i took the shifter housing off too. im almost scared at how easy this trans is coming out. now everything that i'll need to replace is in the actual bell housing correct? and im going to need a torque wrench and the alignment tool for this job?
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and im going to need a torque wrench and the alignment tool for this job?
you will need both and an alignment tool normally comes with a clutch kit and dont forget to get your fly wheel resurfaced
also i recomend you finding some help to stuff the trans and and the d300 it is a pita to do it by yourself the alignment is the big problem
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and im going to need a torque wrench and the alignment tool for this job?
you will need both and an alignment tool normally comes with a clutch kit and dont forget to get your fly wheel resurfaced
also i recomend you finding some help to stuff the trans and and the d300 it is a pita to do it by yourself the alignment is the big problem
ok. it'll be a few weeks before i have the money to do the job. just really wanted to get the trans out of the way for some reason. but just as a smart a$$ remark since you guys like to make fun of me for using automatics..... I WOULDN'T HAVE TO DO THIS IN AN AUTOMATIC! ;D ;D ;D
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I WOULDN'T HAVE TO DO THIS IN AN AUTOMATIC! ;D ;D ;D
no but it would cost 5x as much when the auto goes bad and after you learn to drive a stick a clutch will last as long as an auto i know for certain if i had an auto i would have replaced more than one by now
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got the trans out. the bolts came out easy but it almost seemed like the trans was fused to the bell housing. took a buddy and i shaking and pulling on it to finally break it free. removed all of the bolts on the bellhousing and the same thing. gonna get a rubber sledge hammer and beat it off this weekend.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20110918_195021.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20110918_195034.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20110918_195052.jpg)
any idea what that white stuff is on the housing? it's powdery
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The white power is just corrosion. On a different note, You should have left the bell housing on the trans and unbolted the bell housing from the engine to remove it all as an assembly. Technically, when swapping bell housings, or reinstalling your old one, you need to index it to centerline of the input shaft using a dial indicator.
I understand there are probably alignment dowls and such, but those only get you so close. It depends on how OCD you are if you actually decide to do the process. I know some will tell you not to worry about it. Its a procedure mostly done in high HP cars, but depending on your plans for this CJ it may be something you would want to look into.
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The white power is just corrosion. On a different note, You should have left the bell housing on the trans and unbolted the bell housing from the engine to remove it all as an assembly. Technically, when swapping bell housings, or reinstalling your old one, you need to index it to centerline of the input shaft using a dial indicator.
I understand there are probably alignment dowls and such, but those only get you so close. It depends on how OCD you are if you actually decide to do the process. I know some will tell you not to worry about it. Its a procedure mostly done in high HP cars, but depending on your plans for this CJ it may be something you would want to look into.
the SR4 trans is a car/ light duty truck trans. the iron duke engine has 83hp. gonna use these until i find a good deal or they explode and i'll replace both at the same time. but thanks for the extra info
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school starts up again tomorrow and i need to save up some money for the project so it's on hold for the next 10 weeks while im in school.
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school starts up again tomorrow and i need to save up some money for the project so it's on hold for the next 10 weeks while im in school.
get a couple of jobs work about a 100 hrs a week adn you can afford to go to school and work on the heep
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i can afford to do both just not the time lol. also i work 60 as it is.
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i can afford to do both just not the time lol. also i work 60 as it is.
you can sleep when you are dead
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im starting to have second thoughts so i figured i'd run it past you guys.
the 2.5L only has 85hp and a max speed of near 73mph in the CJ7. im obviously going to regear to 4.88 gears when i put on the 35's but will i even be able to drive this thing on the freeway? (speed limit is 70 here) i paid 1k for this. haven't put hardly anything into it but even after i get it all set up the way i want i don't want a trailer queen. nor do i really wanna swap the engine and trans right off the bat. im just wondering if i should resale this and try to find one with the 4.2L or possibly a different jeep.
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Wow that's a hard one, I get emotional with rigs once I get one I want to keep it. but I do try to be realistic. I can only tell you what I'm doing the decision is yours. I have the 4.2 ant its no power house. With 35's and 4.10's I dont have enought horsepower to hold 60 let alone 70 on any type.of up hill, down hill is no problem, but going anything over 75 is scary!
I bought a 90 2.5l that I am planing a V8 transplant because I want more POWER! There are plenty of low HP Suki's out there, but driving down the highway? I can only handle an hour or so on the highway.
I plan on dropping back down to 33's and keeping the current one.
Just my two cents, Not sure it helps!
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you drive a jeep it is not going to be a speed demon
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you drive a jeep it is not going to be a speed demon
yea but the 05 LJ i had had a 4.0L with a banks cod air intake, 35's, and 3.73 gears and could do 80 in it. if i could do 60 and not completely destroy the motor i'd be fine with it. mr. rock, i do get very emotionally attached to my projects and i don't want to sell it. i just don't know if it's worth it to keep this when i could get the same thing with the 4.2L or the 340 engine for abit more.i actally think im going to start looking for the v8 that came in these with a t-176 trans that will bolt up to my dana300. i think as of right now im going to get it to where i can get it running down the street and start saving money for the engine and trans. and figure im going to upgrade the axles. just getting worried that im going to go all out with this and then realize tat i can't drive it on the freeway
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this weekends progress like i said im not spending any money on it but i figured this was a good idea for the time being.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_142533.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_142627.jpg)
front
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_142551.jpg)
rear
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_142606.jpg)
also went and got this from my late gradfathers garage. figured it would help me out abit this winter ;D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_142747.jpg)
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got the drums off of the front axle. tried to get them off of the rear axle but they had 3 philips screws in each, got one out of each side but when i tried on the others i destroyed the hole, they just crumbled without any effort so how do i get them off now?
driver side
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_144734.jpg)
passenger side
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111002_144746.jpg)
the videos are of the draining of the transmission fluid and transfer case. wanted you guys to see the color of the fluid
http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/?action=view¤t=VID_20111002_145634.mp4
http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/?action=view¤t=VID_20111002_150137.mp4
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good luck finding parts for your axles i don't know what year they are but you should have front disc fyi and 5 bolt hubs not 6 bolt
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good luck finding parts for your axles i don't know what year they are but you should have front disc fyi and 5 bolt hubs not 6 bolt
i found a guy with an axle from a cj thats a narrow track also with the disc brakes for $100 but it has no gears in it. was going to take off the outer parts of it and put them on mine to make it discs. and yeah im told that this isnt supposed to be under there :'(
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good luck finding parts for your axles i don't know what year they are but you should have front disc fyi and 5 bolt hubs not 6 bolt
81 was a mixed year also. some came with 6 bolt others with 5. the 6's are from warn but im reading that they're pretty much junk. still researching.
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also with these being front drums im assuming this axle is from the 70s
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good luck finding parts for your axles i don't know what year they are but you should have front disc fyi and 5 bolt hubs not 6 bolt
i found a guy with an axle from a cj thats a narrow track also with the disc brakes for $100 but it has no gears in it. was going to take off the outer parts of it and put them on mine to make it discs. and yeah im told that this isnt supposed to be under there :'(
if you are going to keep the lp 30 and want disc brakes grab a chevy 10 bolt or d44 knuckels and brakes but you will have to use some ford parts to keep the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern it is an up grade all around bigger brakes and better locking hubs
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this is from a guy on greatlakes 4x4. he claims to have 25 years in rebuilding CJ's.
My .02¢ on stock Jeep CJ axles. They are the worst part of the vehicle once you get serious about low gearing and wheeling with aggressive rubber. Spending money twice is the biggest problem/mistake when trying to make stock CJ axles live longer. 'Get by' with cheap used part gear or locker upgrades and invest the bigger money into axles that will survive spirited use.
Personally I wouldn't stick a ton of $$ into a model 30 that would even occasionally be run hard with 35's & 4:88's. That's lots of fragile little teeth in an itty bitty diff. With a 6 I broke enough 30 axles and ring gears running 35's that I could have paid for a narrowed Scout 44. Maybe lunch box locker it, match the rear gear and call it good. Then start saving for an upgrade. Until then respect the 30's limitations & know when to pull cable.
That's brings us to the rear model AMC 20. It has a nice sized ring & pinion, that's about it. I'm not a fan of it's crush sleeve pre-load, but that's a personal preference.
The axle tubes are weak and bend easy.
The axle tubes like to spin in the housing or in the visa-versa depending on how you look at it.
The 2 piece axles suck and will break keyways.
Sure you can buy a truss. Sure you can buy one piece axles. Sure you can weld the tubes to the center. But why waste all that time and $$ putting lipstick on a pig when you can get a low geared 60 or 14 bolt narrowed for about the same investment and never worry about it again? Even the smaller ring geared Dana 44 has a better history of survivnig as a rear diff than the AMC 20.
My suggestion to get going cheap and save $ for later improvements based on staying with the 4cyl for now;
Getting discs on the front will be good enough to stop the 35's, but I'd find a used CJ power brake setup to help.
Don't waste time and $$ putting rear disc on an AMC 20, save the cash and get rid of the 20 all together at a later date.
Find some used 4:10 / 4:56 gears and carriers.
Keep the two piece axle nuts tight.
Keep the two piece axle nuts tight.
Keep the two piece axle nuts tight.
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so im thinking of a front dana 44 and a gm 14 bolt rear. thoughts?
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I don't think a 14 bolt would be the best axle for you in the rear. Sure, its strong as crap but its also huge. It hangs a lot lower then most other axles and unless your planning on running 37's or larger I wouldn't bother with one. If you want to see exactly what I'm talking about, look at my build thread in the wrenching section on here. I have pictures in there of how I cut the bottom of my 14 bolt off and welded a 1/2" plate to the bottom of it to save ground clearance.
Just to put numbers to what I am talking about here, I pulled this information from my build thread:
Dana 30 = 4 5/8"
Dana 44 = 5 1/2"
Ford 8.8 = 5 5/8"
Dana 60 = 5 7/8"
14 Bolt = 7 1/4" to 8" Depending on what write up I found (Stock Numbers)
Those numbers are from centerline of the axle tube to the bottom of the differential. If you think about it, the difference of a Dana 44 to a 14 bolt is 2" of clearance at the differential. That is the equivalent of going from a 33" tire to a 37" tire, so it is a huge difference.
Your best bet is to find a set of Waggy axles, front and rear. They will be the right width for your CJ. Also, it will be easier to find a set with matched gearing. If you are trying to stay on a budget here, they that will be a big plus.
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I don't think a 14 bolt would be the best axle for you in the rear. Sure, its strong as crap but its also huge. It hangs a lot lower then most other axles and unless your planning on running 37's or larger I wouldn't bother with one. If you want to see exactly what I'm talking about, look at my build thread in the wrenching section on here. I have pictures in there of how I cut the bottom of my 14 bolt off and welded a 1/2" plate to the bottom of it to save ground clearance.
Just to put numbers to what I am talking about here, I pulled this information from my build thread:
Dana 30 = 4 5/8"
Dana 44 = 5 1/2"
Ford 8.8 = 5 5/8"
Dana 60 = 5 7/8"
14 Bolt = 7 1/4" to 8" Depending on what write up I found (Stock Numbers)
Those numbers are from centerline of the axle tube to the bottom of the differential. If you think about it, the difference of a Dana 44 to a 14 bolt is 2" of clearance at the differential. That is the equivalent of going from a 33" tire to a 37" tire, so it is a huge difference.
Your best bet is to find a set of Waggy axles, front and rear. They will be the right width for your CJ. Also, it will be easier to find a set with matched gearing. If you are trying to stay on a budget here, they that will be a big plus.
wow i didn't know they were THAT much bigger. thanks for the info. yeah i only plan on running 35's so you think 44's front and rear should be plenty to hold up to that? i also plan on swapping out to an amc 304/360
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A set of Waggy 44's would live just fine with that combo. The other option would be to cut a HP44 down from a 73-76 F-150 (yes, other years had one but those ones have welded wedges vice cast and are easier to work with). You cut the passenger side down to EB Bronco length. Cost and installation ease considered, just run some Waggy 44's.
Is your CJ passenger or driver side drop? If its passenger you'll have to flip the 300 for those axles.
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Due to the droop problem alot of ppl also run scout 44's so the drop is on the correct side.
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it's a passenger drop
Due to the droop problem alot of ppl also run scout 44's so the drop is on the correct side.
i've heard this before. i seen a set for sale but he wanted 1500 for them. they were exactly what i wanted with 4.56 gears and i think they were locked but i didn't have that kinda money sitting around. they had already been shortened for a cj7 also.
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going to get a brake booster and master cylinder off of a cj7 this weekend for $50. also found a dana 30 with disc brakes for $75.
also here is my thread on GL4x4 it's pretty funny listening to these guys argue back and forth on whats better.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=215981
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this weeks progress.
removed the rear drums. had to drill out the screws and beat the hell out of them to get them off
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/1318787048150.jpg)
im assuming i need new shoes
also sanded down the underbody and put a layer of rustoleum rust reformer on it
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/1318801381039.jpg)
see guys, this is why you wear safety glasses
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/1318794222291.jpg)
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see guys, this is why you wear safety glasses
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/1318794222291.jpg)
Safety is key on any build, thanks for the (funny) reminded!
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A dust mask would also not be a bad idea. Just saying ;D
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A dust mask would also not be a bad idea. Just saying ;D
i have them. honestly just forgot to put one one though. don't worry. i suffered through brown boogers for the remainder of the day.
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so tonight i beat the hell out of my bell housing to get it to finally come off
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111022_210821.jpg)
i think i need a new clutch ;D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111022_210711.jpg)
and here is my fly wheel
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20111022_210740.jpg)
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everything is all put back together, went to start it up and go figure, wont turn over :'(
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The starter does not spin or the start is not engaging into the flywheel?
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The starter does not spin or the start is not engaging into the flywheel?
my guess since it is doug the battery is dead
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battery isnt dead it was on a charger. i hear a noise when i turn it over but it sounds like it's coming from the carb, no noise coming from around the starter
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battery isnt dead it was on a charger. i hear a noise when i turn it over but it sounds like it's coming from the carb, no noise coming from around the starter
Double check the wiring, I believe there is a relay mounted on the firewall and I've had the wire that runs to the startred fall off of the relay, it's a small green on on my YJ, if it did fall off you will only get a click out of the relay!
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will look at it tomorrow.
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still couldn't figure it out. i grounded the starter to itself and it didn't spine still. beat on it with a hammer and then tried to start it again and nothing. re-installed everything and next weekend it's going up to my old high school where my brother is going to get my electrical system actually working again. so it'll be up there until june time frame so i'll have an empty garage and now he will have the headache of electrical systems ;D
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all put back together ready for its trip up to the school
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20120104_100342.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/IMG_20120104_100355.jpg)
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been awhile since i posted up. the teacher up at the school has remounted the cross member and roll bar. i just bought a drivers side seat bracket and stock shackles with new bushings to install when it gets back. they're just rigging me up some tail lights and i'll be driving it home when that's done. when it gets back im going to replace all the brake components and do a full tune up. then start looking into what i wanna do to paint it.
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got the jeep back and it was running fine. drove it in the rain and it got pissed off and wont start as of right now. going to tinker with it this coming weekend. probably have a short somewhere because i've already checked my distributor and it's dry. in other news though i just bought:
daystar 1"body mount replacements (replacement body mounts that are just 1" taller)
rusty's HD drag link
rusty's HD tie rod
4 new drums
4 new wheel cylinders
shoes all around
adjusting screws all around
and hardware kits all around
figure the jeep is going to sit nearly stock until i buy a house to do the work on it at so i might as well replace my drum brakes. the body mounts were shot and i found the daystar kit on sale and the rusty's steering was cheaper than oem parts ($110 each to the door)
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got the day star kit, got the rusty's HD steering kit but i ordered the wide track ones on accident so.... i found on GL4X4 a set of wide track cj axles for $200. they have the 1 piece conversion for the amc20 and upgraded warn hubs on the front axle. i returned the front set of brakes and will be buying new pads and rotors for this set. i also found somebody who has a 10k sq ft shop with a hoist that im going to help him move some stuff in exchange for using his hoist. so in a month when i get out of school im going to do all this work.
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not sure if anybody is still reading this but i like to keep records :P
found a big hole in my dist. coil cover which let water in while i was driving in the rain and fried the coil. found out that i have an HEI dist. from a SBC so i ordered a 67 vette coil and cap for it, already put the coil in and it fired right up, still waiting on the cap.
also ordered a new ignition lock/cylinder because mine is worn out and it can be started without the key in it.
somebody on a CJ only forum mailed me a license plate bracket so now i don't have to have the plate duct taped to the rear window ;D
going to have the carb rebuilt and then just going to drive it and replace/upgrade things as $$ comes in. waiting on my buddy to get his hoist installed at his shop so i can do my axle swap, HD steering upgrade, and 1" body mount lift.
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If you still have the Carter carb from the factory look at upgrading to a MC2100. Much better carb and doesn't mind steep hills and extreme angles when offroading.
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If you still have the Carter carb from the factory look at upgrading to a MC2100. Much better carb and doesn't mind steep hills and extreme angles when offroading.
since it's just the iron duke engine i didn't really plan on messing with it. i really want to drop a amc 360 in it since it's a direct bolt in. but depending upon how much somebody wants to rebuild this one i may do just that. thanks for the advice roger
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found out that i have an HEI dist. from a SBC so i ordered a 67 vette coil and cap for it, already put the coil in and it fired right up, still waiting on the cap.
what vette came with a 4 banger are you just using a plug wire on every other stud wth are you doing
and hei did not come around until the late 70's so y did you order that
just bring it down to me leave the keys and a blank check and i will get you rolling right
just a reminder the offer still stands
i build cool stuff
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/YnJldy9zaGFyZWQvZm1nci9NeSBBbGJ1bXMvNjc2QTAzMDYuanBn.jpg)
yes it is a mile high but that will change(but it would be awesome in the early 90's when mile high lifts were cool so i guess i got a vintage cool going on)
and my cj is cooler than yours
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the coil and cap cover fit on the dist. so i'm not asking questions anymore. and the dist cap has 8 points but only 4 of them have the metal attachments yet again, i'm not asking questions anymore :o it runs and drives now, mostly off of PFM so i'm not touching it ;D waiting on my buddy to get a hoist installed at his shop so i can swap out my axles, replace the body mounts, shocks, and steering.
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been awhile but not much work has gotten done until recently. so i swapped both axles out and installed stock axles from an 83 CJ7 so now i have the right axle widths. also put new rotors, calipers, pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, and drums on them. i've decided to keep the iron duke for awhile so now i'm saving up to replace the carb (the current one is a rochester "vari" jet) and put a new stock exhaust on it. then comes the electrical gremlins. also i took those stupid extended shackles off and put on stock ones so it sits abit lower and now it's on 31X10.5 BFG all terrains.
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(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/reptile610/1982%20CJ7/65586_171489526335912_956102317_n.jpg)