The Mud Pit > Wrenching

Can't decide

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mallcrawl:

--- Quote from: Doball on February 20, 2008, 12:45:21 AM ---Sorry Brice, but I would avoid a body lift, unless you're just going for height and tire clearance. Body lifts do not provide any suspension performance upgrades = waste of money unless all you want is bigger tires.

--- End quote ---

no need to apologize the right course for the next upgrade has a lot to do with where you plan on ending up, for my jeep the endpoint will be 2.5" OME springs with the body lift a tummy tuck and some gnarly wide 33's for off road trips while keeping the BFG at's for on road/winter driving ect. but thats because the Jeep is ment more to take me camping and fishing than as a real heavy trail machine. when I want something meaner for the trails I'll build a sammi or similar buggy light enough to pull behind the jeep.

4" or more suspension lift does add a laundry list of new worries in the drivetrain though if thats the route you want to go plan on getting a slip yoke eliminator a longer CV style driveshaft and be ready to need a longer front driveshaft as well to be able to handle the extra flex. the other option is to use a transfer case drop to make the vibes go away but that steals a lot of the clearance that you're lift gained you.

by all means scott was right above about you being plenty high already for 33"s just put them on a rim with less backspacing and they'll stay well away from your fenders.

oh yeah and finaly if you do decide to go with longer springs make sure you talk with teraflex first and make sure that the short arm kit you have is good for them

HOT-ROD:
i have a taco. lol

i would do an upgradeable kit. like mike said. also remember where you want to be as a rig, crawling, trail, mud, just having a lifted rig, it all depends. but for all around, 1) lift and tires, 2) safty gear and spares, tools 3) grears  4, lockers, 5) protection, 6) recovery gear

but that was my route for my mod's, i'm between recovery and protection right now.

Erik:
If it's not a "hard core" trail machine, you really don't need a Long Arm kit.  What you will need is adjustable control arms, uppers and lowers.  Those will improve the road manners on a Short Arm kit.

As for the Motor Mount Lift and the Transfer case drop kit, you only need those if you are running a CV style driveshaft where you want the pinion to be inline with the driveshaft.

With the standard slip yoke that is on your TJ, you want the yoke of the transfer case and the pinion yoke to be parallel with each other to avoid driveline vibrations.  If you use the motor mount lift or a t-case drop, you will be causing vibes.

If your rig is only for casual wheeling, stay with the Short Arm.  Long Arm kits are cool, but the average wheeler doesn't need them. 

My buddy always puts it to ME this way: "Do your abilities as a driver exceed the abilities of the vehicle?  Then why do you need to make that mod?"  It's saved me money, and has made me a better driver in my vehicle.  BTW, he drove a Cherokee with a Short Kit for a long time, and went all the places the Long Arm kit TJs went.

Just my thoughts.  Save the extra cash.


Erik

One-Eye:
I am running a 4" short arm Pro Comp with 2" Tera Flex coil spacers.  I can clear 35" tires now but without the coil spacers the flex that I got with the 33" tires rubbed on the bushwackers a little bit.  Hence the 2" coil spacers.  Here is what mine looks like all said and done.  By the way mine is a short arm.

     

Seabee_BUC:
You just wanted to post those pics again One Eye...LOL  Our short arm kit flexes pretty good, too...

 

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