Author Topic: New Engine  (Read 3329 times)

Offline JSchwinn

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New Engine
« on: May 10, 2015, 02:28:01 PM »
Hey guys so I picked up a replacement 4.0 for my jeep yesterday and wanted to get everyone's opinion on how far I should go to clean it up/ replace parts.  The engine has around 103k on it and ran great when pulled.  Seeing as it is on an engine stand and easily acceptable I wasn't sure how much overhaul I should preform.  Is it worth taking all the accessories off changing the gaskets and cleaning them up?  What bolt on parts usually break around 100k and should be replaced?  Also I plan on going the swap in the near future and could use a hand or two from someone with some engine swap experience, I get the gist of it but I'm no mechanic and could use the help.  All input is appreciated! thanks!
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline Mayhem

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2015, 03:20:17 PM »
Replace water pump and heater tube, thermostat, plugs, valve cover gasket (felpro), oil filter adapter, and motor mounts.  Clean everything.
Greg
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Offline Big Chuck

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2015, 03:59:42 PM »
Very easy swap Josh! I like to use simple green and a pressure washer, even better if you have a bot water source. You could have that swap done in an afternoon.
chuck
Tube chassis, 5.3LS, Ford Dana 60 Chevy 14 Bolt 5.13 gears. 203/205 doubler, Hydro steering, air shocks, 42 inch Iroks on 16.5 H1 double bead locks.

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2015, 07:16:06 PM »
Yea I was definitely going to change gaskets, so pretty much change all the bolt on stuff up front. How about timing chain? 

Chuck I'm hoping its a quick swap! I don't have a powerwasher but I will clean it up as best I can, maybe paint the valve over while it's off.
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2015, 07:29:58 PM »
Replace water pump and heater tube, thermostat, plugs, valve cover gasket (felpro), oil filter adapter, and motor mounts.  Clean everything.

The engine has new plugs so should be good there, the rest I plan on replacing.  I was also going to replace the intake and exhaust manifold gasket.  When I do the swap I'll take my brand new pan from the old engine and throw it on the new engine.
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline Big Chuck

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2015, 07:52:27 PM »
Take the engine to the car wash! Lol even just a high pressure wash at home with degreaser and you should be good. Intake and manifold gaskets is a good idea whilst you are at it.
chuck
Tube chassis, 5.3LS, Ford Dana 60 Chevy 14 Bolt 5.13 gears. 203/205 doubler, Hydro steering, air shocks, 42 inch Iroks on 16.5 H1 double bead locks.

Offline skibum

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2015, 03:10:20 AM »
Don't forget rear main oil seal. Much easier to do when out of jeep.
09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2015, 02:46:29 PM »
Don't forget rear main oil seal. Much easier to do when out of jeep.

Good call, need to drop the pan anyways.
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2015, 01:31:28 PM »
So I have stripped the engine and purchased all new parts listed above.  I was hoping to spend a month or so cleaning and painting the engine but when I got home yesterday there was an increased amount of oil leaking so I think my plans have to change.  This weekend I will install all the above listed items and start the swap.  The only thing I didn't change was the timing chain, hopefully it doesn't need it.
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2015, 01:05:46 AM »
The increased oil leak has made the jeep undriveable which has put the engine swap as number one priority. I had an idea to make things quicker and easier, I'm thinking of unbolting the current intake/exhaust manifold and keeping it in place all wired up. This will make it so I only haven to unplug a few misc items.  Anybody see any issues with this? Its not like the new engine has any different/better parts.  I have unbolted most of the things on the old engine just need to undo the manifold/tranny/engine mounts.  The engine may come out tomorrow if i have time after work.  I'll then transfer the clutch and drop the new engine in.
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline JSchwinn

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2015, 03:28:16 PM »
So the swap was a success!  New engine is in and appears to be running great.  My only issue out of the process is I'm not getting a whining noise coming from the tranny when I'm stopped in neutral with the clutch disengaged, once I press the clutch in the noise goes away. I assume its the throw-out bearing but not positive.  My syncro's are shot anyways so a "new" used tranny is on the to-do list when I put in my 8.8
1993 YJ - I6 - 4" RC Lift - 8k Winch - 33's

Offline Big Chuck

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2015, 04:25:11 PM »
Nice job!
Tube chassis, 5.3LS, Ford Dana 60 Chevy 14 Bolt 5.13 gears. 203/205 doubler, Hydro steering, air shocks, 42 inch Iroks on 16.5 H1 double bead locks.

Offline Mayhem

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2015, 04:51:20 PM »
My only issue out of the process is I'm now getting a whining noise coming from the tranny when I'm stopped in neutral with the clutch disengaged, once I press the clutch in the noise goes away. I assume its the throw-out bearing but not positive.

That describes the symptoms of throw out bearing noise perfectly. 

Glad the swap went well though.  Nice work!
Greg
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Offline skibum

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #13 on: May 28, 2015, 12:48:14 PM »
TOB only make noise when clutch pedal is pushed down. When foot off clutch TOB not spinning on pressure plate forks. Noise is most likely in trans.
09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline Mayhem

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Re: New Engine
« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2015, 02:32:44 PM »
TOB only make noise when clutch pedal is pushed down. When foot off clutch TOB not spinning on pressure plate forks. Noise is most likely in trans.

Makes sense Bob.

But, strangely, Ford actually, put out a TSB to apply a preload to the clutch to eliminate the noise in their TOBs. If you push the clutch in, you are putting pressure on the throw out bearing. If the bearing was sloppy/noisy, the pressure would stop the noise.

Would you think Input shaft bearing?
Greg
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