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Author Topic: George's JK and lift  (Read 2607 times)

Offline Rampage

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George's JK and lift
« on: February 16, 2014, 02:49:33 AM »
Some of you may know but some may not.... I'm now a proud owner of a Black 2008 Jk Rubicon unlimited with a little more than 100,000 high way miles.... I've been looking at lifts for a while now and I'm set on a four inch lift, but I'm deciding on weather I should spend about 1,200-300 on a short arm complete kit or to save up 1,600-900 for a rough country complete long arm.... I know I'd get more flex with a long arm but that's just about all I know. I figure if I'm going to spend the money I want to only spend it once. I will be running 37's with 4:10's and stiffeners if that's a factor with long or short arms or type of lift.... Lastly I'm pretty sure controll arm spacers arnt too good on the trails do to collapsing but is that really true?
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08 JKU
Stock motor/trani/4:1 T-Case
AXletech 4000's😜 5:63's Locked
Double Triangulated 4 link
46x15.50R20 Goodyear MVT's

Offline Rampage

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2014, 02:52:28 AM »
Or are the 500-600 stock controll arm spacers good for a pretty consistent amount of wheeling. hopefully I'll put more off road miles on than on road miles
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08 JKU
Stock motor/trani/4:1 T-Case
AXletech 4000's😜 5:63's Locked
Double Triangulated 4 link
46x15.50R20 Goodyear MVT's

Offline Mreecew

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2014, 03:44:42 PM »
Congrats on the new rig! From what I've seen with jk's because of the new suspension (compared to a tj or the front of an xj and zj) The jk has much longer control arms factory and they do pretty good even if you leave it short arm. But you get better ride, driveshaft protection, stronger mounts and potential for more flex out of long arms, among other benefits. It really depends on how hard you're going to beat on it and what you have in mind for flex. I'd recommend at least getting a kit with new control arms even if they are short arms with better joints than the rubber bushings. 
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1991 Samurai, 1.3 TBI, 35" KM2's, full 2 1/4" exhaust, SOA, RUF, Trail Tough Belly Skid, 5k Winch, Locked front and rear, GRS-2 transfer case gears (4.89:1 low), Built front axle with trusses, guards, gussets and birfield rings, Shrockworks gas tank skid, junk body and not much of a top.

Offline Rampage

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2014, 06:58:28 PM »
I've decided to steer away from the relocation brackets do to people say they don't really do good on the trail and mostly because I've heard a lot of people say that they can loosen up and fold over when flexing...... Also Mitch I do flex everything out to the max of its abilities (lawn mowers/quads/rzr's) so I agree about getting new arms...
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08 JKU
Stock motor/trani/4:1 T-Case
AXletech 4000's😜 5:63's Locked
Double Triangulated 4 link
46x15.50R20 Goodyear MVT's

Offline Mayhem

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2014, 10:19:22 PM »
Wow. Great rig. Short arms flex pretty well. Look for arms that have joints that allow rotation (twist). And buy a high quality kit.
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Offline gearhead1985B

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2014, 12:52:50 AM »
If I was going to build a jk iI would use metal cloaks kit with there springs and arms

I almost bought the metal cloak dura flex joints when I did my rear 4 link
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Offline JKJon

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2014, 01:19:18 AM »
Keep in mind over 3 inches of lift and all that flex will probably need a new front driveshaft to prevent hitting the exhaust crossover pipe. Assuming the exhaust is setup the same on the older models.
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Offline skibum

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2014, 02:01:34 AM »
Quote from: JKJon on February 17, 2014, 01:19:18 AM
Keep in mind over 3 inches of lift and all that flex will probably need a new front driveshaft to prevent hitting the exhaust crossover pipe. Assuming the exhaust is setup the same on the older models.

That depends if it's a stick or auto.
I am extreamly happy with the Clayton short arm kit. Major flex.
The JK's stock arms are much longer than a TJ so it's almost like a long arm to a TJ.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2014, 12:36:41 PM by skibum »
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09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline skibum

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2014, 12:50:21 PM »
The only way I feel you can gain more flex from a long arm kit it to install coil over shocks because with my Clayton short arn the coil spring comes out of the seat at fill droop.
Talk to Adem at Clayton and he will have an answer for all your questions. He is an extreamly nice guy and felt for me it was better dealing with a local bisness. They are in waterburry and the owner Clayton lives about 15 min from your house Gourge. If you get there long arm kit it has an exelent skid plate system that works with that kit and skid plates is the most important thing you should be looking at when wheeling a Limo sized jeep.
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09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline Bill3753

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2014, 06:29:33 PM »
Everything I've read on JK D44's, especially in a heavy 4 door, I'd install something like this as well:

https://www.rockslideengineering.com/product/bomb-shell-kit/

Just ask Bob.
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Offline skibum

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2014, 08:49:02 PM »
If you sleeve it and install gussets with 37's and wheel it easy it might servive but otherwize get a prorock. If yours has not seen too much wheeling and never had a lift then I would recomend selling the front D44 and buy the Prorock because after spending all the cash and effort into the stock one for just a few hundred more you will have an axel that will last you a life time of abuse. The stock D44 Rubi axel tubes and C's are the same as the D30. People will usually pay alot for a Rubi D44. Just look around and see how much they are going for to give your self an idea.
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09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline Mreecew

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Re: George's JK and lift
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2014, 10:17:30 PM »
Quote from: skibum on February 17, 2014, 02:01:34 AM
The JK's stock arms are much longer than a TJ so it's almost like a long arm to a TJ.

Lol my mid arms I built are only 7/8's of an inch longer than stock jk front lowers, that decision was made after seeing short arm jk's in action.
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1991 Samurai, 1.3 TBI, 35" KM2's, full 2 1/4" exhaust, SOA, RUF, Trail Tough Belly Skid, 5k Winch, Locked front and rear, GRS-2 transfer case gears (4.89:1 low), Built front axle with trusses, guards, gussets and birfield rings, Shrockworks gas tank skid, junk body and not much of a top.
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