Vibration when I hit the gas pedal...

[Coqui]

Came out of the woods lastweekend with a gnarly vibration when I hit the gas pedal – Any suggestions?

Have a 05” TJ w/4” suspension kit.

Thinking it might be the DS alignment is off….any shops in the area that balance DS?

[calvynandhobbs]

I would look at ujoints before balancing of a driveshaft. Ujoints will go before the balancing would be off.

[Mayhem]

Overland Driveshaft, in Montville, should be able to take care of you if thats the problem.
http://overlanddriveshaft.com/index.php?route=common/home

[skibum]

I would look at ujoints before balancing of a driveshaft. Ujoints will go before the balancing would be off.

X2.  Also durring your inspection check to see if the drive shaft got hit.

[Coqui]

Good copy and all.....thnks!

[kirksjeep]

Overland wants somewhere around $50 to ballance a driveshaft.  I asked about it a few years back. 

Also check your skid plate.  If it is bent in the right spot it will push the driveshaft to one side.  Also check the rear control arm mounts.

[Coqui]

Any recommend on ujoints?

[gearhead1985B]

Any recommend on ujoints?

cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it  so you can warrenty it later

[calvynandhobbs]

Any recommend on ujoints?

I have at least one driveshaft ujoint and axle shaft ujoint left over from my 98 TJ if you want them. I've used the Autozone Duralast Gold joints that are non-greasable and never had a problem with them. A lot of them have warranties so I'd buy a new one at whatever store you normally pick up parts for your Jeep. Makes it easier to remember where they came from.

[skibum]

Get under there & start moving u joints around till you fine a sloppy one. You will no when you find the bad one. If its causing a vibration on acell then its pritty sloppy.

[Coqui]

Looks like the rear DS upper ujoints have a little up n down play....skid plate looks good. Installed new upper control arm bolts...no joy. Guess will replace all four rear ujoint this weekend.

[JohnC]

Any recommend on ujoints?

cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it  so you can warrenty it later

Not sure I agree with this. The reason people prefer non greasable u-joints us because the ones with a grease fitting are structurally weaker due to the hole drilled and tapped for the grease fitting in the body of the joint. The non grease joints dont have this hole in them for the grease fitting making the body of the joint solid and therefore stronger. So If your joint does have a grease fitting, smashing it to make it unusable did nothing to make the joint stronger. All that will do is make it unable to accept more grease which should be done regularly if you do happen to have a fitting. So, should you buy a u-joint that has a fitting, keep it intact and grease it regularly to push out old grease and dirt that makes its way in and is abrasive on the needle bearings. If you can, get a non-greasable one. But if you want to best of both worlds, order your joints from a real driveline place like Tom Woods Custom Driveshats. They make joints that have the grease fitting drilled into the end of the cap, not in the body of the joint. This keeps the joints structural integrity and allows the joint to be serviced filled with fresh grease regularly. I went to these joints this summer and after snapping joints all the time, have not broken one since. And I beat on them pretty good. They also make an offset U joint that will help with angle problems if you need it called the superflex joint. I use those too and love them.

[gearhead1985B]

Any recommend on ujoints?

cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it  so you can warrenty it later

Not sure I agree with this. The reason people prefer non greasable u-joints us because the ones with a grease fitting are structurally weaker due to the hole drilled and tapped for the grease fitting in the body of the joint. The non grease joints dont have this hole in them for the grease fitting making the body of the joint solid and therefore stronger. So If your joint does have a grease fitting, smashing it to make it unusable did nothing to make the joint stronger. All that will do is make it unable to accept more grease which should be done regularly if you do happen to have a fitting. So, should you buy a u-joint that has a fitting, keep it intact and grease it regularly to push out old grease and dirt that makes its way in and is abrasive on the needle bearings. If you can, get a non-greasable one. But if you want to best of both worlds, order your joints from a real driveline place like Tom Woods Custom Driveshats. They make joints that have the grease fitting drilled into the end of the cap, not in the body of the joint. This keeps the joints structural integrity and allows the joint to be serviced filled with fresh grease regularly. I went to these joints this summer and after snapping joints all the time, have not broken one since. And I beat on them pretty good. They also make an offset U joint that will help with angle problems if you need it called the superflex joint. I use those too and love them.

yes all that is correct i did not go into the other reason for nongreasable joints my drive shafts are being pushed to the maximum angle possible before the joint binds an at angle the grease fitting gets smashed but one thing i do in preparation for a trail ride is pull the drive shafts and regrease them i do the joints by pulling the caps and stuffing blob of grease  in them and checking to make sure all the needle bearings are intact and replace them as necessary my joints on my drive shafts are spicer lifetime crosses (taken from good drive shafts cause no one local can get spicer parts)with elcheapo caps and elcheapo needles

[JohnC]

Wow gearhead thats a ton of work which could all be avoided if you switch to superflex joints. It would fix your binding issues, and the fittings are on the caps so you would never have to pull the shafts again. Just grease and go. They are $60 each but it will be the last joint you buy for a while.

[Coqui]

Appreciate all the feedback!!!

Took the jeep over to overland driveshaft, they guy there looked at it was puzzled cause joints looked ok….Overall felt replacing them wouldn’t hurt.

Raised the jeep up on a lift, put in drive – noticed the first joint in the rear DS pushed up on the TC main shaft causing everything to shake.

After a few hours reading several Jeep forums, tom woods website…I guess I’m looking at risking to see if a MML ($50-$100) will work or SYE w/CV Shaft ($500) chi-chin!