VS

[reptile610]

SOA vs SUA: for a rig primaryly for trails but must get me there and back. ( was thinking SOA w/ YJ springs.)
steel vs aluminum body armor: anybody used the aluminum yet? was wondering if they're durable at all or worth the money for the weight reduction.

[reptile610]

thoughts on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/cjspoa.html

[reptile610]

also are these legal? im assuming you'd need mud flaps but they do have fender flares.

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/CJ-7-Rear-Crusher-Corners-Flares-p/11-04-043.htm

[Bill3753]

also are these legal? im assuming you'd need mud flaps but they do have fender flares.

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/CJ-7-Rear-Crusher-Corners-Flares-p/11-04-043.htm

They are only legal in states that do not have fender laws (i.e. Texas).  Also, there is no need for a comp cut on any rig, unless... you stretch the wheel base far enough to where you have to.

If your looking for armor, I would take a serious look at Genright. I really like their stuff I have used on my rig.  Everything it top notch quality and they have great customer support.

Now for lift.  I would personnally consider doing a highline and 35's with no lift.  You'll keep it low, only have to buy the armor, and still have tons of clearance.

As for the spring over debate, I'll leave that answer to the guys running leaf springs.  Like I said though, I vote no lift, highline and 35's.

[reptile610]

also are these legal? im assuming you'd need mud flaps but they do have fender flares.

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/CJ-7-Rear-Crusher-Corners-Flares-p/11-04-043.htm

They are only legal in states that do not have fender laws (i.e. Texas).  Also, there is no need for a comp cut on any rig, unless... you stretch the wheel base far enough to where you have to.

If your looking for armor, I would take a serious look at Genright. I really like their stuff I have used on my rig.  Everything it top notch quality and they have great customer support.
i was looking at gen rights stuff also and was thinking the hi line stuff anyways. didn't know i could run 35's stock with them though.
Now for lift.  I would personnally consider doing a highline and 35's with no lift.  You'll keep it low, only have to buy the armor, and still have tons of clearance.

As for the spring over debate, I'll leave that answer to the guys running leaf springs.  Like I said though, I vote no lift, highline and 35's.

[footman]

Go aluminum.  I have Savvy gas tank skid and have dropped and dragged the jeep on rocks with really no damage(minor scratching).  Think of all the weight savings.

[Mr Rock]

I agree with Bill, no reason for a comp cut unless you are planning a stretch with 38" or bigger tires.
Again i like Bill's idea of keeping it low by hi lining it, while a SOA will give you better droop it will also give you 6 - 7" of lift using stock springs so without a stretch it will be tippy.
I would use aluminum for some of the skids like the tank but nothing beats a solid piece of steel under the belly when you drop off hard onto a rock with the full weight of your rig!

[Bill3753]

I would use aluminum for some of the skids like the tank but nothing beats a solid piece of steel under the belly when you drop off hard onto a rock with the full weight of your rig!

I kind of agree here (sorry, didn't add what I thought of aluminum earlier).  The main reason I don't want aluminum on mine is that it is not fun to work with.  Lets be honest, we are talking about armor.  Its meant to beat on so you need to be ready to weld and fix it as required so it can continue to protect your rig.  Steel is easy to cut, weld, heat, bend, ect.  Aluminum on the other hand cost more and requires special tooling to work with.  Sure, you can weld it but it will require either a spool gun for a GMAW (MIG) process or TIG attachment/welder.  Your talking big money for both and considering your already spending more initially to buy the armor, I just have to ask why?  Also, have you ever tried to heat and bend aluminum?  It is all together different then steel.  Its very easy to make your plate weak at which point your kinda screwed.  Sure, I understand lighter is nice but seriously how many times have you been out wheeling and said that you wish your rig was lighter?  Enough to warrent the added cost and pains?

I'm not sure I'd even use it on corner armor as I want to weld on tube fenders to double as an upper rock rail to protect my tub where to top seals.

In the end its your build.  Do lots of research and make it how YOU decide is best for the wheeling you want to do.  For me, that is highline, stretch, belly up skid for clearance, linked and locked with lots of armor.  That doesn't mean it will be what is best for you.

[gearhead1985B]

SOA vs SUA

you decide same spot same trail i will never build an sua rig again

thoughts on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/cjspoa.html

no not worth it i do not trust any bolt on soa weld it and go plus you need an anti-wrap bar

i can get you into cheaper parts aka ruff stuff
get there simple axle swap kits they have every thing you need for $120 i bought them and will buy them again for my brothers cj5
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AxleSwapKits.html


also you will need new upper shock mounts i recommend using the ford shock towers
http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1103_image.jpg

get them from the ford dealer they was cheaper than parts mike

now you need steering see what works with what you got a cj d30 will accept d44 knuckles so high steer is an option  


and drive shafts


this is a short list that i pulled from the top of my head

also are these legal? im assuming you'd need mud flaps but they do have fender flares.

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/CJ-7-Rear-Crusher-Corners-Flares-p/11-04-043.htm

there are cheaper options out there and don't comp cut your rig they look ghey unless you  run really large tires and a long ass wheel base i run sniper fab fenders and am ordering there corners tomorrow cause of the 20% off sale
http://sniperfab.3dcartstores.com/YJ-Standard-Full-Corner-Guards_p_26.html

looks about $200 cheaper than poison spyder

[reptile610]

thinking steel armor for the cost, and ease to fix. was also thinking about the hi lining it as much as possible. i like the look of the comp cut but might just do the normal armor. i like the look of gen right and poison spyder and because they have everything i need i would like to get all armor from one place. why do i need to relocate my shocks?

[Dispatcher]

also are these legal? im assuming you'd need mud flaps but they do have fender flares.

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/CJ-7-Rear-Crusher-Corners-Flares-p/11-04-043.htm

They are only legal in states that do not have fender laws (i.e. Texas).  Also, there is no need for a comp cut on any rig, unless... you stretch the wheel base far enough to where you have to.

If your looking for armor, I would take a serious look at Genright. I really like their stuff I have used on my rig.  Everything it top notch quality and they have great customer support.

Now for lift.  I would personnally consider doing a highline and 35's with no lift.  You'll keep it low, only have to buy the armor, and still have tons of clearance.

As for the spring over debate, I'll leave that answer to the guys running leaf springs.  Like I said though, I vote no lift, highline and 35's.

I'm running the crusher corners on my jeep with no mud flaps and have never been pulled over for them or had an issue with them.

[gearhead1985B]

why do i need to relocate my shocks?

the reason to relocate your shocks is that the length of your stock cj mounts do not allow for a very long shock and with the ford mounts you can move the upper mounts up 2-3" easy with out them mounts i could not fit a 15" travel shock if i used a stock mounting location i could only fit a 12" and have only 2-3" of up travel and now i can fit a 15" shock that is 37" extended and have 5" of up travel and 10" down

make since

[reptile610]

why do i need to relocate my shocks?

the reason to relocate your shocks is that the length of your stock cj mounts do not allow for a very long shock and with the ford mounts you can move the upper mounts up 2-3" easy with out them mounts i could not fit a 15" travel shock if i used a stock mounting location i could only fit a 12" and have only 2-3" of up travel and now i can fit a 15" shock that is 37" extended and have 5" of up travel and 10" down

make since

yeah makes sense.

[reptile610]

thinking about getting armor from gen right. idk about their front bumper though. can't find a pic of it on a jeep