Author Topic: Lift  (Read 9174 times)

Offline Gr33NGoph3R

  • Honorary Member
  • Mudd Hog
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
Lift
« on: March 11, 2011, 09:17:13 PM »
just wondering if theres any reason I shouldnt do the transfer case drop for my lift even though I wont be able to actually install the lift untill next weekend I dont intend on going anywhere off road with it so clearance wouldnt be an issue

Offline Bill3753

  • Honorary Member
  • Rock Crawler
  • ***
  • Posts: 476
Re: Lift
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2011, 11:20:09 PM »
Do you ever plan to offroad it at all?  If so I wouldn't do it.

Otherwise, dropping the case without lifting it will mess up you driveline angles and cause your drive shaft to potentially bind.  You might be able to get away with it on flat ground only, but I honestly would not do it.

If you ever plan to wheel it at all, you'll want to get rid of that drop though.  I had one dropped, trust me.  My stock transfer case skid is pulled currently.  Come see how bent to heck it is and you'll realize why you definatly do not want to do a drop on it.  The drop skid has always been the biggest thing holding me back offroad.  It sucks when you stop the whole trail because your stuck in a rock garden and can't get traction because of that drop (E4W T4T Run Dec 10).  Also sucks when you try to climb a ledge and can't because that skid hangs so low you can crest the top of it.  I even got it stuck on a small tree stump once by wedging the stump right between the drop skid and lower shock mount so bad it took 10 minutes to get out of it.

I could go on and on with other stuff.  Some of it could probably have been prevented with better driving, but it I know it didn't help having it dropped either.  If you never plan to offroad it, you'll be fine.  Just something to think about if you ever do.
04 TJ, HP60, 14 Bolt, 5.13's, linked, locked, on 38's and (still) in the works.

Offline Gr33NGoph3R

  • Honorary Member
  • Mudd Hog
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
Re: Lift
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2011, 11:27:24 PM »
K so when I do lift it just skip the skid drop to avoid the extra headache got it Thx and yes I fully intend on wheeling lol

Offline Bill3753

  • Honorary Member
  • Rock Crawler
  • ***
  • Posts: 476
Re: Lift
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2011, 11:46:59 PM »
Well, its not really that simple.  To keep the driveline angles correct and avoid driveshaft bind, you'll need to get a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for your NP231 transfer case and a CV drive shaft.  This will let you lift your Jeep and not drop the case while still keeping it from vibrating really bad and binding the drive shaft during suspension flex.
04 TJ, HP60, 14 Bolt, 5.13's, linked, locked, on 38's and (still) in the works.

Offline WillC

  • Honorary Member
  • Trail Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 722
Re: Lift
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2011, 11:55:24 PM »
How much lift?

Offline Gr33NGoph3R

  • Honorary Member
  • Mudd Hog
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
Re: Lift
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2011, 11:57:28 PM »
3"  so improbably looking at another grand in parts? roughly
« Last Edit: March 12, 2011, 12:05:16 AM by Gr33NGoph3R »

Offline Bill3753

  • Honorary Member
  • Rock Crawler
  • ***
  • Posts: 476
Re: Lift
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2011, 12:10:22 AM »
3" would make it borderline if you'd need one or not.  If it were me I would do it if you can afford it.

For the SYE and CV conversion you'll need the following parts:

Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit for NP231
CV Drive Shaft
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms to set the pinion angle
Adjustable rear track bar with a hemi joint on the axle side to avoid binding due to the pinion being turned up

Other then that you'll need all the other lift parts you were looking to get.  What kit you looking at getting?
04 TJ, HP60, 14 Bolt, 5.13's, linked, locked, on 38's and (still) in the works.

Offline Gr33NGoph3R

  • Honorary Member
  • Mudd Hog
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
Re: Lift
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2011, 01:35:07 AM »
3" would make it borderline if you'd need one or not.  If it were me I would do it if you can afford it.

For the SYE and CV conversion you'll need the following parts:

Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit for NP231
CV Drive Shaft
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms to set the pinion angle
Adjustable rear track bar with a hemi joint on the axle side to avoid binding due to the pinion being turned up

Other then that you'll need all the other lift parts you were looking to get.  What kit you looking at getting?


ok just to make sure my mind is officially in the right place I want to get a 4" skyjacker full suspension lift this costs only a little more than the 3" i was looking at and is much better if i get that installed and do the drop my issue is still getting hung up on obstacles but if I do it anyway and get the other parts you've mentioned over time I can get rid of that drop once I have all of them anyway it would just be easyer for me this way so I dont have to drop an extra grand right now but get it where I have the money over time 

Offline skibum

  • Paid Members
  • Trail Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 869
Re: Lift
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2011, 01:36:31 AM »
Synce it's a Rubicon it already has the slip yoke in the drive shaft & a shortened tail shaft housing on the T case so you should be ok with a 3in lift. Also you have the NP241 T case. Worst case you might need to replace your rear drive shaft with a slightly longer one.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2011, 01:38:33 AM by skibum »
09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts

Offline Gr33NGoph3R

  • Honorary Member
  • Mudd Hog
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
Re: Lift
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2011, 01:49:23 AM »
K that makes things a little cheaper thx

Offline Mr Rock

  • Administrator
  • Trail Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1571
Re: Lift
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2011, 01:57:34 AM »
Synce it's a Rubicon it already has the slip yoke in the drive shaft & a shortened tail shaft housing on the T case so you should be ok with a 3in lift. Also you have the NP241 T case. Worst case you might need to replace your rear drive shaft with a slightly longer one.

It's nice to have mopar mechanic around!
'89, 4.2, NUTTERED, Team Rush, 4" Lift, 1" BL, 1" MML & HD shackles , Flat Belly Skid, SYE, 36 x 13.50s
XRC8, 150w KC's, Herculined, Tauras Elec Fan, Dual Batteries, Aussie in front, 8.8, TJ flares & Spool in rear, topless all of the time!

Offline Bill3753

  • Honorary Member
  • Rock Crawler
  • ***
  • Posts: 476
Re: Lift
« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2011, 02:06:11 AM »
Opps, didn't know he had a rubicon.  Missed that part, lol.  Good catch Bob.
04 TJ, HP60, 14 Bolt, 5.13's, linked, locked, on 38's and (still) in the works.

Offline RnnngTrails

  • Honorary Member
  • Trail Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 702
    • Facebook - Gary Lynch
Re: Lift
« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2011, 04:07:39 AM »
Carolina Driveline makes custom built One offs for Rubicons. He's aparantly pretty well known. I wound up beating mine up pretty good and took it to a shop in San Diego. The guy knew instantly who made it. It cost me about 250 - 300 the first time around to buy it. Took about 2-3 days to arrive from when I ordered it.
Living in Preston. Call me if you're going wheeling!

Offline RnnngTrails

  • Honorary Member
  • Trail Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 702
    • Facebook - Gary Lynch
Re: Lift
« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2011, 04:35:23 AM »
ok just to make sure my mind is officially in the right place I want to get a 4" skyjacker full suspension lift this costs only a little more than the 3" i was looking at and is much better if i get that installed and do the drop my issue is still getting hung up on obstacles but if I do it anyway and get the other parts you've mentioned over time I can get rid of that drop once I have all of them anyway it would just be easyer for me this way so I dont have to drop an extra grand right now but get it where I have the money over time 

Another thing to consider would be Rock Krawlers 3.5" X Factor Short Arm Suspension System . It will allow for 33's right now and is fully upgradable to a long arm system later if you decide to go that route. This way you dont have any money "lost" if you decide to go bigger later. And once upgraded, you can run either 3.5" or 5.5" springs.  I'm running their 5.5" X-Factor on my Rubicon and it's probably one of the best suspensions I've ever bought. Plus, their Tech Support is phenominal and it has an "Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty"

3.5" X Factor Short Arm Suspension System
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43226

X Factor Plus Long Arm Upgrade System
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43242


Just food for thought. It's pretty comparably priced and having owned both brands, IMO, a significantly better product than Skyjacker. If this isn't something you're doing in the immediate future, I'll be back in May and you're more than welcome to come out on a trail with me and see how it does before you purchase one way or the other.
Living in Preston. Call me if you're going wheeling!

Offline Swagger

  • Rock Crawler
  • ****
  • Posts: 416
Re: Lift
« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2011, 05:57:13 AM »
yo noob, chill out with the harsh words and foul language like skyjacker. fabtech and procomp and super lift. Eewwwey. Those are ugly words too. I have to say, i'm with runningtrails on this one, and then some. You should seriously consider Rock Krawler, Clayton, TNT customs, and (if they ever re=open thier shop) Rubicon express, and maybe even Teraflex.  I know, i priced them all myself as well, and your new to the game, so i understand. Oooh, bright shiny red coil springs.  Dont buy based on the fact that they post there crap in every magazine  on the shelf.  You wont find any mallcrawler adds in any mag for clayton, rock krawler or tnt; Rubicon Express does advertise, but they deserve to.  You may spend less at first, but you will regret it in he long run.  The 5 GOOD brands that i called out, will have an unmatched amount of quality that the other run of the mill brands could not even come close to.  Pluss, if and when, you are unsatisfied with or you break something (you eventully will) these "Jeep Only" gurus are much more able to and willing to help and taylor orders to you needs. Save your self the time and money and headache by doing it right with quality parts the first time. That includes Shocks as well. I recommend nothing less than Bilstien's. Personally i would go with simple FOX 2.0 SHOX. there a little pricey, but they are totally rebuildable, and will probably outlast the tranny.   ;D .  Oh and if you mention Rough Country, I will fly back to providence, drive to Groton. and burn you Rubi to the ground myself.  Dont mean to sound a little blunt, but i feel like i caught you tip-toeing towards alot of headaches. You have a Rubi, wheel it like hell, but with good parts. ok newbie? ok.  Just my $.02   :P
FOR SALE:  2000 TJ with some stuff and uber low mileage.  $9500 obo. Come to Texas and buy my junk!!!

I like to smash things!!!!