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Bill's 1 Ton TJ Build

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Bill3753:
So, I feel like every time I wheel my Dana 30 it I've got a ticking time bomb under me due to the extra horse power and torque I'm laying down with the supercharger.  Anyways, this is what I am thinking.

Dana HP60 Front - Stock w/ 4.10 Gears
Sterling 10.25 Rear - Stock w/ 4.10 Gears (Welded?  If I do that I would put a Detroit in it latter on)
Military H1 Double Beadlocks w/ 7” backspacing
Military 37" Goodyears

Obviously, what started me looking was wanting to upgrade to a stronger front end and 35's.  I'm looking at the combo above because I honestly think it will be more cost effective.  I found a HP60 Kingpin front for $500 with 4.10's.  The same guy wants $200 for the matching 4.10 Sterling rear.  The axles are in running condition.  So, for much less than the cost of a D30 Front Hub Conversion and Chromo's or HP44 with Chromo’s/truss and brackets, I can have 1 ton axles.   I’ll still need the brackets for the HP60, but that is still less than the cost of chromo axles, brackets and a truss for the HP44.

Then there is the tires and rims to consider.  If I go with a HP44 Front with chromo axles, I would need new wheels and wheel spacers for the rear to match the width of the HP44.  I found the H1 double beadlocks with the PVC inserts for $75 each.  Also, the H1 rims run a large offset, so I can run the axles full width and still keep almost the entire tire under my 7” flares.  I would use these wheels regardless of where I go with this build because they are a DOT legal double beadlock.  Using a HP44 full width would still require the offset anyways.   The 37” Military rubber cost $75.00 a tire as well which to me is much less then I would pay for 35’s.

So basically, this is what I am thinking in a nutshell.  Buying a HP60/10.25 Rear, H1 Rims, and 37’s will be less than building up my Dana 30, building a HP30, or building a HP44 because I wouldn’t be buying hub conversions or chromo axles.  Also, the military 37’s will be way less than 35’s.  The other good thing about this route is I could then sell my locked D44 rear, part out the D30, and sell my current rim/tire combo to help recover some of the cost.

I’m looking for and open to thoughts and ideas?  Is this a bad idea?  Ed, I already know that two days ago I said I didn’t want more then 35’s, but those 37’s are a heck of a deal.  Also, the built HP30 I found sold.

RnnngTrails:
What lift are you running? I'm running a Rock Krawler 5.5" Long Arm kit with 35" tires and Dana 44's and even with the Gen Right Tube Fenders in the front, I still can rub them on the inner fender when I'm at full flex. Nothing terrible, just tread on fender.. But from looking at your avatar, you're also going to need to consider new fenders / cutting yours to clear 37" tires. Food for thought...

I didn't see a "Members Rig" section for your Jeep so I dont exactly know what's been done to yours.. Forgive me if I'm wrong about this.

Flex:
when doing this i would consider doing the suspension also, u dont need more lift u just need to more room. Other than that i think this is a great idea, its a good thing i agree bc its the same thing im going on a 91 Comanche and that project is nearing completion.

Bill3753:
I was looking on pirate4x4 and there is a whole thread for TJ's with small lifts and bigger tires.  For now, I was thinking put the axles under it and get it going.  I'll flex it on base with one of the lifts and mark where it is hitting.  I have a 4.5" lift and 1.5" body lift.  From what I saw on pirate, bump stops and some cutting and it can be done with that much lift and cut stock fenders..  Yes, there was a bunch of the guys running high line fenders and stretched to 103"+ wheelbase, but there was also ones going with a very streetable set up with minimal lift on a stock wheel base.  They all had full width axles with 7" TJ flares to cover it up then a big offset wheel to bring it back under.  I already have the 7" Flares.  Some cutting and moving stuff around a little and I think it would be great on the trail.

I figured I would get the axles under it, steering rigged up and flex it.  Find all the pinch points, binding spots, and rubbing areas.  Cut as needed.  I don't mind cutting the fenders some to get some travel out of it.  I can run bump stops to take care of the rest when I can build some highline tube fenders.  Heck, right now I'm running doubled up stock bump stops in the front.  I didn't set it up that way.  It was the previous owner’s stupidity.  I already have WAY more bump stop then I need.  I guess I can cut those down too until I get it so the tires tuck up in nice.

I just honestly think I can go HP60/Sterling 10.25 and 37's cheaper then I can go built D30 or HP44 with 35's.  It’s very tempting and the more I think about it the more I want to do it.

Only thing I have not done before with this kind of project is install the TJ brackets on axles.  I can weld just fine.  Just slightly worried about getting it set up right.  From what I have read it isn't too bad of a job, just takes time.

Oh, I also did a little math on it as far as the width is concerned.  The stock TJ Dana 30 is 60.5” WMS to WMS.  The Ford Dana HP60 is 69.25” WMS to WMS.  So that is 8.75 differences.  Currently, I am running wheels with very little offset.  I don’t know what they are exactly as the previous owner put them on, but the stick our far.  Total width of the current Dana 30 with rims and tires installed is around 73” to 74”.  Now that is from the outside of the tire to outside of the other tire.  If I go with the H1 Beadlocks with a 7” backspacing, I will be looking at 69.25” for the axle, plus about 2” per side (roughly, not including tire sidewall).  That it 73.25”.  Add in the tire/sidewall sticking out and I will be right at or just a little over what I have now.  Just food for thought…

skibum:
Just looking at the skids & rock sliders you built Im shure you can tackel this job. Can't wait to see what your going to do with that big chunk of 1/4 in plate for the tummy tucker. Wish I could give you some input but fab work is not something I do alot.

The combo your thinking about sounds great. Just do you research & take your time. Also are you still going to keep this as your daily driver? If so then I see your concern of welding the new brackets to the axels so it aligns correctly. If not your going to eat up thoes $75 tires very fast & DW is also the issue when alignment if out of wack. Again I feel you can handle a project like this. Just let me no on the steel you need because Im shure my buddy can get it for you.

I did not no that the H1 wheels were dubble beedlocks. Can I get a set of these for my JK with the correct off set after I put the 4.5 in lift on some day & what are the pro's & con's of running the H1 beedlocks??

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