Moosin's Complete 8.8 (almost)

[moosin]

Finished with all the brackets, done painting with a few extra custom pieces. Now all I have to do is wait for the backordered locker


here you can see one of the biggest problems of the 8.8


here is another shot showing how much of an anchor it could be


just another angle of it from the side


here is what I have done to fix the problem


here is another shot


here is the best angle to see that there is no longer a one inch lip and is actually quarter inch less
material


here is a shot of the completed axle

[calvynandhobbs]

Looks great Ed. What suspension are you going with for the brackets or are you just putting them on in case you want to do something later?

[footman]

Looks great Ed!  Really nice work. 

[Mr Rock]

That look's great Ed!
You'll have to explain what you did to fill that in and you took off a 1/4" in the process?
I just ordered a diff cover from Poly Performance Inc. $65 + 16 for shipping for the SOLID cover.
When I go to change it out I'll like to weld in something similar to what you did.

Are you in love with that welder..... Mel better watch out!

[moosin]

thanks for the compliments guys.Roger the brackets are all for Clayton 4-link long arm, I know its a little backwards from the ordinary by doing the rear and not the front but I dont wont another broken shaft and I had the axle so I figured I'd start here.I dont have the sway bar bracket yet I'm going to see how it handles and if it needs it i'll put in on later.Hey Rock I knew you'd like the diff shaving and smoothing I had to think of something since I'm not going to 35's until I use up the current 33's.It was pretty easy just time consuming I ground down the lip just about to the original diff cover.As for the fill I went to Lowes and bought 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide steel strips.The first strip I cut to run from the lip all the way up to the pinion then i cut 4 more shorter pcs and placed 2 on each side of the longer strip.I thought about using 3/8" but I wouldn't have been able to bend the end pc over to match the contours of the diff. Hope fully it all holds up, and if not I'll just have to pull the welder out and plate it some more (darn)

[Mr Rock]

thanks for the compliments guys.Roger the brackets are all for Clayton 4-link long arm, I know its a little backwards from the ordinary by doing the rear and not the front but I dont wont another broken shaft and I had the axle so I figured I'd start here.I dont have the sway bar bracket yet I'm going to see how it handles and if it needs it i'll put in on later.Hey Rock I knew you'd like the diff shaving and smoothing I had to think of something since I'm not going to 35's until I use up the current 33's.It was pretty easy just time consuming I ground down the lip just about to the original diff cover.As for the fill I went to Lowes and bought 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide steel strips.The first strip I cut to run from the lip all the way up to the pinion then i cut 4 more shorter pcs and placed 2 on each side of the longer strip.I thought about using 3/8" but I wouldn't have been able to bend the end pc over to match the contours of the diff. Hope fully it all holds up, and if not I'll just have to pull the welder out and plate it some more (darn)

I can see it now that you explained it! before that I was trying to figure out how you did it with one plate, or maybe you love the welder so much you just filled it all in with wire. lol

[gearhead1985B]

looks good