Opinions wanted

[footman]

So I'm looking to upgrade to 35's (BFG KM2 or Goodyear MTR)  Feel free to post your opion about those but thats not my question.  Currenty I'm running 33's with 3.73 gears.  I know the correct way to upgrade tires is to regear but that gets into lots of money (buying the gears and stronger shafts, having someone do the work, plus I'll want to do lockers at that time).  Have any of you guys wheeled 35's with 3.73 gears?  If so, how was it crawling rocks?  Also, how bad was it on the highway?  I have a 15 min commute to work, will I end up hating to drive my rig or will it be ok?

[WillC]

BF Goodrich Krawlers with the sticky competition rubber.

[calvynandhobbs]

Steve, you're running the exact same combo as me right now so you already know that you sometimes have to downshift going up hills out on the highway. Imagine having to downshift at least twice as often and having to run to higher RPMs before shifting just to get on the highway. If I remember correctly your tires are in really good shape so my advice to you would be to go ahead and lock an axle or two for less money than what a new set of tires would cost. You can go lunchbox in the front without any issues and I don't think they are gearing specific so when you do decide to regear you can just put it right back in. With your tummy tuck and 33s you are only missing lockers to be able to go anywhere you want to. Wait for 35s until your current tires need replacing and get traction right away with a locker.

[Mr Rock]

With your tummy tuck and 33s you are only missing lockers to be able to go anywhere you want to. Wait for 35s until your current tires need replacing and get traction right away with a locker.

X2

[gearhead1985B]

get a lunch box or a selectable locker for the front since you are above the carrier break you will not have to get a new one when you regear for the 35's

[One-Eye]

I was in the mood buy some new tires back in the day so I did some research and one of the reasons that I said the next tire I buy is going to be a set of KM2's is because of this video.  Enjoy.

http://www.discounttire.com/video/BFGMudTerrainTAKM2.html

Now that being said, when I went to 33's I was running 3.07 and it was a pig.  I upgraded to 4.56 (which is recommended for 35's) and the difference on the trails in rediculous!!!  I get really shitty gas milage because like I said they are for 35's and I am running 33's so I unfortunetly push higher RPM's.  If you have Pete at CT Axle do it, it is going to run you around $1000.  I paid $2000 but I had a rear locker installed too which is about $1000.

I also agree with calvynandhobbs in that I would add the locker now and wait (save some money) for new tires.  Now I don't know what kind of axle you have but I am assuming a 45?  But, one thing I learned is that if you upgrade a part of a component you are just weakening something else.  So if you upgrade the shafts you are just going to break gears instead.  If you upgrade to heavy duty U-joints you are just waiting for the ears of the shafts to break.  I actually steered away from upgrading shafts because of this.  I think it is easier and cheaper to replace a set of shafts than gears.  Just my opinion.  Hope it helped.

Oh and sorry for the book that I wrote as well.

One-Eye

[calvynandhobbs]

I also agree with calvynandhobbs in that I would add the locker now and wait (save some money) for new tires.  Now I don't know what kind of axle you have but I am assuming a 45?  But, one thing I learned is that if you upgrade a part of a component you are just weakening something else.  So if you upgrade the shafts you are just going to break gears instead.  If you upgrade to heavy duty U-joints you are just waiting for the ears of the shafts to break.  I actually steered away from upgrading shafts because of this.  I think it is easier and cheaper to replace a set of shafts than gears.  Just my opinion.  Hope it helped.

Oh and sorry for the book that I wrote as well.

One-Eye

Steve has a D44 rear axle so strength back there won't be a problem. I agree with you as far as upgrading axle shafts and things like that. You are only moving the weak point of the axle to somewhere else and I would much rather replace an an axleshaft or ujoint than gears.

[kirksjeep]

I ran my 35's on the stock 3.73 gears and I lost 4th and 5th gear for street use.  Off Road it required a lot more skinny pedal to crawl and was less controllable.  I now have 4.10's after my axle swaps and it is much better, but eventually I would like to move to 4.88 gears, but my Jeep is not my DD.

I agree with the posts above, and I too think the $$$ would be better spent on a locker or two and stronger shafts.  The D30 can handle a locker on stock shafts and 33s, but not on 35s.  The only reason  I am not locked up front yet is due to the stock TJ shafts I am running, plenty strong for an open carrier, but not locked, and I still carry spares. 

Don't forget the brakes too.  With 35s trying to stop the Jeep was pretty scary.  With the 8.8 rear I have 4 wheel disc which is better, but not great.  I would still like to upgrade the brake booster and master cylinder to make it a little safer.  I keep a pretty good following distance and I wouldn't call it dangerous, but still pretty high on my to do list.

[Flex]

I hate the agree with everyone else but lunchbox lockers r the best off road upgrade for the money and with 33's you can lock in both front and rear axles with pretty good odds of not breaking the shafts in the Dana 30, the dana 44 is no worry.

As far as tires go if u ever by new tires before ur old ones r worthless and u can re sell ur 33 then ur really getting the better part of the life of the tire, and i've been told when it comes to buying tires, buying new and selling used is the best way to go as far as getting the best performance for ur money. But when it comes down to it just do what ya want, cause everyone knows chicks dig big tires, and body damage.

[xjjeeper]

If you upgrade to 35s i highly suggest the km2s i have them awsome tires  awsome on all terrains love rocks mud snow all of it i love my km2s.

[footman]

Thanks everyone!  I appriciate all the advice. 
So now that you helped redirect me in the best direction, I need to be schooled in lockers.  Can you please explain what a lunchbox locker is and pros and cons.  My thought has been to have selectable lockers both front and rear.  I know my rig is really capable being open right now and I'd like to keep that challenge when wheeling but have the option to lockup if needed. 

[Mr Rock]

Thanks everyone!  I appriciate all the advice.  
So now that you helped redirect me in the best direction, I need to be schooled in lockers.  Can you please explain what a lunchbox locker is and pros and cons.  My thought has been to have selectable lockers both front and rear.  I know my rig is really capable being open right now and I'd like to keep that challenge when wheeling but have the option to lockup if needed.  

Steve, I have to agree with you, I have my sights set on selectable lockers for the same reason. It's fun to go as far as you can in 2WD (really 1WD) get stuck, then have the option of locking up the rear or going to 4WD to get free! Of course you pay for the selectablity. the lunch box lockers, which are about half the cost, as I understand it, are like the LockRight or PowerTrax brands, were it acts like a spool when going in a straight line but it does allow the outside tire to spin faster in a corner so your tires don't "chirp" like Rogers welded rear, (which is the ultimate budget locker) they work great on a trail rig but not so great as a DD, IMO.

[gearhead1985B]

well lunch box locker is the easiest to install it just replaces the spider gears and can be done with out any specail tools and they are cheap a lot of people run the aussie locker

http://www.aussielocker.com/

for the selectable there are 3 types you have
1 air operated ex ARB, yukon zip http://www.arbusa.com/Products/Air-Lockers/10.aspx 
2 electrical ex auburn ECTED electric locker http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/71424?osCsid=3ad8ad866682b91c9dc478eb2fbc924f
3 mecanical ex OX http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Products/Lockers/tabid/429/Default.aspx

when fianally decide what axles i am going to run i will be running  ox lockers front and rear my problem with air or electric lockers is that when that air hose or wire gets ripped off of the housing i don't want to be with out a locker when i need it and i want to be able to switch of the locer to help with my turning radius yes these lockers will cost about $800 a piece compared to $250 for the aussie or free for the lincon locker (welded) i see all the benifits and IMHO it is worth it

with the selectable locker you will have to pay some one for the install because they are a full carrier replacement wich will require seting up the diff which is very fun i don't do them that is the only drawback i installed an aussie in less than 2 hours on a d30 this last weekend so they are not bad my best advice is do the research

sorry for the bad spelling to much beer lol

and i am sure others will have more to add

[footman]

OK so I found some gear sets from Yukon front and rear for $460.  With going to 35's what would be better 4.56 or 4.88 and give me a reason why.  I am also checking out the Yukon Zip lockers ($670 a peice).  Anyone have any thoughts on the various types of selectable lockers out on the market?

[calvynandhobbs]

The Yukon Zips are a fairly new addition to the selectable locker. I've been reading some debates online and it sounds like they are an exact copy of the original ARB locker. ARB has made a few improvements to their lockers over the years so most people were asking why anybody would want an older generation ARB when you can buy the newest one for $150 more and have the ARB name on it. As far as electrics I've read to stay away from the Ected electrical locker, but the Eaton E-locker has great reviews if you want to go that route.

As far as 4.56 or 4.88 I've looked at it the charts and 4.56 is much closer to going back to stock gearing for 35s. It is still a tad on the high side so you will have more low end torque that originally stock. I think 4.88s would be fun on the trail, but they would be running really high RPMs for the road. Here's a chart to see where different gears and tire size line up.

http://jeeptalk.org/gear_chart.php