update 1-31 -Axle Swap Progress with pics

[HOT-ROD]

i have seen that a few times. i just cut it off. then had a custom job done

[kirksjeep]

The thing that sucks, my exhaust was custom bent, and its still in great condition.  I am hoping a few minor tweaks will make it work. 

[PaulW]

I ran into my first snag last night.  I got the axle in position, drive shaft on, wheels on, off the jack stands, but the shocks are becoming a PITA.  The Tera Flex shock relocation bar causes the passenger side shock to hit the tail pipe.  It looks like my only option is going to be to cut my tail pipe off just behind the muffler and try and modify it to work with the shocks. I figure worst case, I might need to get a new tail pipe bent up and welded on.  I won't have much time to get to it until Friday.

tail pipes r overrated

[kirksjeep]

I managed to get the tailpipe out without too much damage to it, but now it looks like I will need a new muffler to make this all work.  The outlet of the muffler is directly in front of the shock now that the shock mounts at the top are more inboard .  My muffler is a flowmaster 50 series with a center outlet and looks to be about 14-16" long.  I just ordered one of the flowmaster super 44 (off road/ diamond plate exterior) with an offset outlet, and it is only 12" long.  The good news it that the shock tabs are on, so tomorrow I will pull the axle back out and finish the welding and put some paint on it.  I am also waiting on my Solid Diff cover to arrive.  They are still 1/2 off, so with shipping it was only $65.  I'll try to get some pics before I pull everything back out.

here is a link to what I ordered.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/942447OR/10002/-1?CT=999

[PaulW]

haha i still dont believe that u need a tailpipe lol

[kirksjeep]

Everything is mocked up and tack welded.  I checked all of my measurements again and noticed they were off so getting everything back in the right place took a little while.  I'm not sure how the axle shifted an 1/4" but it did.  After I got it back in place I put some good tack welds on the spring plates and then pulled the axle back out.  I stripped some more of the rust off of the housing and started to finish weld everything when I ran out of welding wire.   I was going to head out tomorrow and pick up all the stuff to makes the brakes work anyway so I'll pick up another spool of welding wire while I'm out.  I took some new pics, for everyone to see how much more work this is then most of the forums on line make it out to be. 


Here is the link to the new pics:
http://s380.photobucket.com/albums/oo242/kirksjeep/Axle%20Swap/?albumview=grid

[rocket]

Nice!  You might as well get 2 spools, that way you have enough for the next project, too

[PaulW]

Nice!  You might as well get 2 spools, that way you have enough for the next project, too

Ya then you have one for a coffee table

[kirksjeep]

I picked up some welding wire and finished all the welding.  I'm not sure if it was just me or not, but the Lincoln brand welding wire seemed to do a better job then the harbour freight brand I had.  I also finished cleaning all the old paint and rust off of the axle and gave it a few coats of fresh paint.  I also cleaned up the back end of the frame and the rear leaf springs.  I also found that the shackles where hitting a tab on the rear bumper at full compression.  With a little work with the grinder the shackles will now bottom out on the bottom of the bumper and it looks to give just the slightest (1/4" or so) more flex.  I also cut the old flowmaster off to get it ready for the new muffler.  I looked at the wife's Liberty and I might try to fit the flowmaster on her Jeep.  The stock Liberty is a center in, center out, but it is about 30" long!!!  I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with this project. 

[PaulW]

x2

[kirksjeep]

So let me start by saying, I have new pics, but they are on the camera, which is in the garage and I really don't feel like going back out in the snow. 

Today I went out and bought the hard lines and fittings for the brake system.  I also bought a brake tube bender, and I already have a cutter and a double flair tool, so I should be set.  I managed to wrestle the 8.8 back into position for the last time.  It seems to get heavier everytime.  I put the U-bolts and U-bolt skids on, and the drive shaft.  Anyone looking to do this swap, Ace Hardware in Norwich sell the grade 8 bolts to mate the drive shaft adaptor up to the 8.8 pinion.  I put the claipers and pads back on and mounted up the soft lines.  I little trick I picked up on reading about this swap on the internet, is the grind the little tab on the back of the caliper off so that the soft line can be bolted on at any angle you want.  I turned mine straight up instead of to the back to hopefully keep them from snagging on anything.  Still have a whole list of stuff to do, but atleast it is in. 

[PaulW]

So let me start by saying, I have new pics, but they are on the camera, which is in the garage and I really don't feel like going back out in the snow. 

Today I went out and bought the hard lines and fittings for the brake system.  I also bought a brake tube bender, and I already have a cutter and a double flair tool, so I should be set.  I managed to wrestle the 8.8 back into position for the last time.  It seems to get heavier everytime.  I put the U-bolts and U-bolt skids on, and the drive shaft.  Anyone looking to do this swap, Ace Hardware in Norwich sell the grade 8 bolts to mate the drive shaft adaptor up to the 8.8 pinion.  I put the claipers and pads back on and mounted up the soft lines.  I little trick I picked up on reading about this swap on the internet, is the grind the little tab on the back of the caliper off so that the soft line can be bolted on at any angle you want.  I turned mine straight up instead of to the back to hopefully keep them from snagging on anything.  Still have a whole list of stuff to do, but atleast it is in. 

what are you going to do for a driveshaft?  I've heard that the u-joint bearing caps are the same diameter, so all you have to do is press the ford flange onto the jeep shaft, but i've never tried.  if it's that easy then i'll be on my way to the junkyard tomorrow to get an 8.8 for my xj

[kirksjeep]

I bought a new Tom Woods drive shaft from a shop going out of business in FL, and the guy threw in the Jeep to 8.8 adaptor for FREE!  Can't beat $185 for the drive shaft and adaptor including shipping.  My YJ uses 1310 U-joints and a stock Explorer uses a 1330.  In some late 94's and all 95's and up switched to the slightly larger 1330 u-joint.  I have read about some ford rangers  and astro vans with the 8.8 used the 1310 U-joint and would bolt right up.  M.O.R.E. sells the adapter for $40, but I have heard that the Spicer ones go for $25. 

[PaulW]

I bought a new Tom Woods drive shaft from a shop going out of business in FL, and the guy threw in the Jeep to 8.8 adaptor for FREE!  Can't beat $185 for the drive shaft and adaptor including shipping.  My YJ uses 1310 U-joints and a stock Explorer uses a 1330.  In some late 94's and all 95's and up switched to the slightly larger 1330 u-joint.  I have read about some ford rangers  and astro vans with the 8.8 used the 1310 U-joint and would bolt right up.  M.O.R.E. sells the adapter for $40, but I have heard that the Spicer ones go for $25. 

shit thats too easy then.  mines going into the whimpstar then

[kirksjeep]

Here are the pics I promised.  The only new things are that my flowmaster and solid diff cover arrived today.  The Flowmaster Super 44 is twice as heavy as my old flowmaster, very impressed with the quality construction.  The Solid diff cover is heavy ( as expected), but it also came with silicone gasket maker and new bolts. 

You will also notice how dusty my truck is.  My entire garage is covered in a layer of dust from this project.   


Links to new pics:
http://s380.photobucket.com/albums/oo242/kirksjeep/Axle%20Swap/?albumview=grid