JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: One-Eye on February 23, 2012, 01:21:52 AM
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Ok,
Just bought 6" lift, SYE, and C.V. Drive shaft. It has begun. Mohrbicon V.2 Can't wait for some decent weather to get here and stay here so I can start wrenching.
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Ok,
Just bought 6" lift, SYE, and C.V. Drive shaft. It has begun. Mohrbicon V.2 Can't wait for some decent weather to get here and stay here so I can start wrenching.
y a 6" lift and not go soa it will ride nicer and be the same lift
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Well I was looking into that a little bit. All the ones that I saw had welding and cutting involved. Cutting doesn't scare me but I do not have a welder. I will be away here and there often in the near future so it has to be simething that I can do here and there without leaving my Jeep at someones house (someone that does have a welder). That was one of the biggest reasons.
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this is why i recomend soa same spot it tne trail
soa
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/063.jpg)
sua
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/rasberry%20road%20march%207%202010/027.jpg)
yes there is cutting and welding involved but not a lot all you need is new perches front and rear and most likely a anti wrap bar in the rear but all the welding can be done in a week end the hardest part to work out is the steering and deciding on what to do most people i know with a d30 up front run this bracket
http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm
anti wrap bar kit just add tube
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html
new perches can be found there as well
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So I finally had some free time to start messing around with the Jeep. Attempted to remove the rear leaf springs. Attempted being the key word here. I vastly underestimated the amount of rust and how strong it can be when left unchecked for 25 years!!!
Broke one bolt on the leaf spring, cannot get the shock bolts or the U-bolts loose. That is just the passenger side rear! Also tried to re-install the rear seat. The guy I bought it from took it out about 7 years ago and put the bolts back in so he wouldn't loose them. Broke 2 out of the 4 on those too. ??? ??? ??? I sprayed everything on that jeep with WD-40 and PB Blaster 3 times before even attempting any removal.
My question is this... Is there a trick to removing rusted bolts that I am not privy to. I really don't want to have to drill half of the bolts out. I am going to be buying all new hardware because some of the ones that I was able to remove looked pretty beat up. I really hope that the differential bolts come out easier!!! God help me.
On a side note, it felt great to turn some wrenches on a Jeep again.
One-Eye
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Do you have a good impact gun? I have found that because they put the force straight on the bolts that many times you won't break them off. I have also just had to cut the bolts off and start from scratch. A 4.5" cutting wheel will make quick work of getting leaf springs out of the hangers.
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I am pretty sure that there is a higher being in Jeep heaven laughing at me right now. So I got the passenger side U-bolts and shock off. Also got the leaf spring off with a hammer and elbow grease. Funny story about that, I don't have a Hi-Lift yet (arrives Wednesday....when I am on duty), so when I got the leaf spring out and the body shifted on me I realized that my floor jack just wasn't high enough. My jack stands, upon further analysis, give me just enough height to not be able to rotate the tires because they are still touching the groung. AAAHHH!!! That was yesterday.
Today... Driver side shock off. Good start right? Followed by not able to get the rear track bar off, some how braking the brake line (funny I know "breaking the brake line"). Just when my day was about to get a little bit better I had a thought... "Didn't Jeep make a YJ with a wierd Transfer Case?" As I was sipping my Crown Royal getting in a better mood I realized that YES, I did in fact have the NP207 T-Case as apposed to the World known NP231. What that means is that the SYE that I have sitting in the garage and CV Drive shaft are getting sent back to Morris 4x4 tomorrow. Unless I go the route of what they call the "Hack and Tap." Did a little homework on that and don't like the idea. So, I either buy a new NP231 for a measly $1300ish or try to find one in a junk yard that will let me take just the T-Case. What a day.
Here are some Pics of what I am dealing with
Old Shock
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0197.jpg)
Shock Mounting Bracket
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0198.jpg)
Old Leaf Spring
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0199.jpg)
Rusty A$$ U-Bolt
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0200.jpg)
Rear Diff ID Tag.....Can you guess what my rear diff is?
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0203.jpg)
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All that being said. Man does it feel good to be under a dirty Jeep again.
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All that being said. Man does it feel good to be under a dirty Jeep again.
Ahh, the joy's of owning a Jeep, lol
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Holly rusty metal batman :o You should really invest in a set of torches. It will help alot in removing rusty bolts.
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Hahaha funny you would say that. Almost killed 1bottle of propane already. Next task is getting the track bar off. I twisted my torque spits yesterday attempting it. Hahahaha
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Propane ::). Save that for cookin the dogs. You need Oxygen & Acetylene to heat up that heavy metal.
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Hahahahaha I wish I had something like that. Make things a lot easier!
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If you cant hunt down an Oxy/gas setup, use a die grinder. It will cut them off even faster. With stuff like that, 20+ years old, I dont even try to turn wrenches. Torches and die grinder come out and you will save a lot of time and busted knuckles. Make sure everything that is going to come unloaded fast is supported, and tear in.
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I have actually been lucky so far. The Propane did work. I am trying to keep as much as I can in one piece. One of my OCD's I guess. Hi-Lift and new body mounts came in today. I should be getting my 44's here in the next day or two. That will be a project in it self. Going to clean them up good before puting them on. Just gotta get the rear perches moved underneath.
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I have had good luck with the impacts that you strike with a hammer. Cheap and portable. As for the u-bolts, I just about always cut them off. My Bro- In Laws 94 YJ had the leaf spring bolts sieze inside the bushing, (Roger's XJ had the same problem). I ended up having to burn the rubber out with a torch. I did a 2" spacer lift in a friends TJ a few weeks ago, and even with it being a 2004 I had to cut the Front shocks out. Good Luck.
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Yeah, I managed to get the U-bolts off but that track bar just wont give. Stupid torx bolt. I hate those things! They may be the first to get cut.
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Yeah, dont do the hack n tap. It sucks :P
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hahaha yeah funny story about that. Upon further investigation I do have a NP231!!! The pictures that I saw online originally showed the 207 looking a bit different from the 231. Turns out they look identical. You have to look at the model number. I managed to get enough crap off if it to make out the 231. Drove me effin nuts when I found out. Did manage to get the passenger rear quarter lift almost done. With the schedule my boat has and the time it is taking to get this stuff off it will take me about a year to get the YJ lifted. Now I am having a little issue with geting the Leaf pin to line up with the perch hole. Just can't win. HAHAHAHA will have to wait a few weeks to continue.
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So after a couple month break...underway...I FINALLY made some progress. Just have to put the driver side rear on and I am done, well, with the lift at least. Have to redo all the breaks because they are rusted to hell. I have a set of mounted 35x12.50 BFG KM2's coming tomorrow. So close to being rode worthy again. Didn't see anything about the July meeting but I might actualy be there for the August meeting. Who knows!
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So after a couple month break...underway...I FINALLY made some progress. Just have to put the driver side rear on and I am done, well, with the lift at least. Have to redo all the breaks because they are rusted to hell. I have a set of mounted 35x12.50 BFG KM2's coming tomorrow. So close to being rode worthy again. Didn't see anything about the July meeting but I might actualy be there for the August meeting. Who knows!
July meeting was on the 3rd. Glad to hear progress is going well. Looking forward to adding another YJ to the group.
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Part of the lift done. You can see the difference between the front and rear.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0283.jpg)
and here it is all done. Just need new brake lines.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0288.jpg)
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I guess I have to update my profile pic now.
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Looks Good. I love seeing old YJ's out on the trail. ;)
I am not sure what rear axle you are planning, but Rock and I both did the 8.8 swap. Also, you will probably need to trim the rear wheel well. If you go with TJ flares it will be close. I took about 2" out the rear half of the wheel well, but I am running Xenon TJ style flares made for a YJ. I also had to take about 1.5" out if the front fenders. I have the R.E.X.D. 4.5" lift and a 1" BL with 35's and I have the stock bump stops.
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Yeah, I noticed that once I got the rear tires under it that they were going to rub a bit. That will be one of the next things to take care of. As for the axles, I have two Dana 44's (front and rear) from an 89 Wagoneer sitting in the garage waiting to get fixed up. I think I will be ok with those and teh 35's. Couldn't complain for $400.
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that jeep looks familiar
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that jeep looks familiar
The left rear tire is on the Jeep and not r ;Dolling down the highway so it can't look like yours.
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that jeep looks familiar
The left rear tire is on the Jeep and not r ;Dolling down the highway so it can't look like yours.
;D it survived the trail yet could not survive the freeway
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that jeep looks familiar
The left rear tire is on the Jeep and not r ;Dolling down the highway so it can't look like yours.
;D it survived the trail yet could not survive the freeway
i guess i don't own a mall rated jeep
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that jeep looks familiar
The left rear tire is on the Jeep and not r ;Dolling down the highway so it can't look like yours.
;D it survived the trail yet could not survive the freeway
i guess i don't own a mall rated jeep
LOL
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that jeep looks familiar
The left rear tire is on the Jeep and not r ;Dolling down the highway so it can't look like yours.
;D it survived the trail yet could not survive the freeway
i guess i don't own a mall rated jeep
LOL
sorry for the hijack but i am working on making my jeep more mall rated i did a little mall crawling this weekend does parking in front of Victoria secret in side the mall improve my mall ratedness
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/YnJldy9zaGFyZWQvZm1nci9NeSBBbGJ1bXMvNjc2QTAzMTYuanBn.jpg)
end hijack
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OMG, They let you in the Mall!!!!
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OMG, They let you in the Mall!!!!
yes it was somthing the club i am in here did for promotion my jeep was parked in the mall all weekend long so i did some real mall crawling
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OMG, They let you in the Mall!!!!
yes it was somthing the club i am in here did for promotion my jeep was parked in the mall all weekend long so i did some real mall crawling
I hope they made you wait to bring it in when the mall was closed so you didn't run over any little kids trying to find a parking spot. ;D I don't think I've ever seen vehicles on display at a mall except new ones from a car dealer. That's pretty cool. Did you choose to park in front of Victoria's Secret or did they assign the parking spots. LOL
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OMG, They let you in the Mall!!!!
yes it was something the club i am in here did for promotion my jeep was parked in the mall all weekend long so i did some real mall crawling
I hope they made you wait to bring it in when the mall was closed so you didn't run over any little kids trying to find a parking spot. ;D I don't think I've ever seen vehicles on display at a mall except new ones from a car dealer. That's pretty cool. Did you choose to park in front of Victoria's Secret or did they assign the parking spots. LOL
we pulled them in on friday after closing and pulled them out on sunday after they shut down actually the victoria secret thing was not planned that is were my jeep was put i was unable to drive it in cause i was working or i would have been closer to it or next to the pretzel shop lol
the local mall does 3 or 4 events like this each year muscle cars, local dirt track race cars, the jeep club, and old classics like model A's ect. they do it to bring in people thye got plenty of room for it so it is just possilbly a differnt crowd that will come in and spend money but this was the 3rd time in since 2000 that i have been in the mall
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UPDATE!!!
The lift is done! Thought I would never say that. The brakes are replaced. Ended going with the pre-cut for convenience only due to my lack of any kind of time. Next is the SYE. Now I have done this 2 other times but for some reasone I can not get the the rear part of the T-case off. I am doing this while it is still under the Jeep. I know I know, it is easier to do this with the T-case removed. Unfortunetly I can not remove the skid plate at this point in time. The bolts holding it on are freakin allen heads. I have twisted the 3 8MM allens that I had. Just decided to move on. So my question is this...is there anything else I need to remove or disconnect to get that damn thing off? Tail housing is off (and snap ring), speed gear removed, all bolts removed. I am running out of ideas. I am phoning any and all friends. Please help! I want to drive this damn Jeep before the summer is over!!! Anyway here she is all lifted. Really makes the wife look short.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l538/One-Eye-Jeep/IMAG0289.jpg)
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UPDATE!!!
The lift is done! Thought I would never say that. The brakes are replaced. Ended going with the pre-cut for convenience only due to my lack of any kind of time. Next is the SYE. Now I have done this 2 other times but for some reasone I can not get the the rear part of the T-case off. I am doing this while it is still under the Jeep. I know I know, it is easier to do this with the T-case removed.
I know this may sound stupid, but did you get all the bolts out? If I remeber right there is one on the top that sits back further then the others. Besides that, a 20+ year old transfercase is not going to seperate easy. Just make sure you pry it at the designted spots or you cane split the aluminum. I have done several and I have done them in and out of the Jeep. I personally think it is easier in the Jeep since holding the transfercase down isn't the easiest thing when trying to touque the bolts.
Jeep looks really good, caint wait to see it on the trail.
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T-Case finally apart...now just have to put it back together again. Who knows, maybe in week I will be driving her.
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T-Case finally apart...now just have to put it back together again. Who knows, maybe in week I will be driving her.
;D
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*Starts off with a big sigh*
So, got the T-Case done...ish. Everything is together, finally!!! took it out of the driveway and started going up the road. Then it happened. Sounded like one of the gears slipped out of place. So after a very thorough recollection of the events leading up today I started going through the directions again. To me it sounded like I said, the gears slipped out of place. And what might you ask holds the gears in place normally? A snap ring. Well, after going through the directions I noticed that no where in them did it say anything about placing a snap ring back in. I was very miticulous with following the directions. So much so that I think I forgot to use common sense. Sure enough, the infamous snap ring is sitting on my oil catch can where I put it. GREAT!!! Now I get to take it all apart again and figure out where the damn ring is supposed to go. Ed...I blame you! 4 wheel drive worked great, just the whole gears moving around thing. Story of my life. But hey, I moved it so that is good...right?
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Yep been there ;D
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Yep been there ;D
X2 ;)
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Ok, so I tore apart the T-case yesterday and pulled everything out. Put the snap ring on and took her for a test drive. Yeah, so, there is still somthing not right in there. Something is binding up. When put in reverse you can see the drive shaft want to turn and then snap into place. So I guess I have to tear it apart again and make sure everything is still intact and then see if I can see what is wrong. Yeah well.
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Sounds like something got damaged. Take it apart slowly & anilize every gear. Sounds like a gear(or more) got chewed up on the first road test. Good luck.
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Yeah, the second time I took it apart I inspected everything and it was all good. Now I have to do it again but I think I may have put the outer gear in backwards. I will have to wait and see.
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I think that might be it. Just have to tighten everything down and try but initiall test run was good. No bad noises. Drove it like 5 miles today just to stretch her legs.
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So the T-Case works just fine. Everything goes the way it should. I also fixed 4-low (because it didn't work before). Internal setting was FUBARed. Now, I do have a pretty significant vibration when slowing down. It happens a little bit when I get off the gas (from higher speeds) but when I get on the brakes it starts to vibrate pretty good until I am doing like 20 miles/hr. The only work I did on the brakes was the brake lines themselves. Didn't touch calipers or drums. I will try to bleed them again just to see if there is anymore air in the lines but I don't think it will make it shake the way it does. If anyone has any insight to this I am dying to hear about it. YJ's unit!!! I can't be the only one that has had this problem...can I? Thanks in advance.
One-Eye
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The last time I can think of something like that happening to me was when I had my CJ7. It was the rear driveshaft. When accelerating everything stayed tight, but when I let go of the gas it would create a void in pressure and the ujoint was vibrating. It was shot and after doing this for about 3 weeks the ujoint gave up the ghost and the rear driveshaft fell out on me while driving it.
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So did you need a longer drive shaft to fix the issue or was it just a bad U-joint? The U-joints that I have are brand new so hopefully it ins't that but then again they are cheap so maybe it is better that it is a U-joint. Now that being said I did notice that when the Jeep is given a little bit a gas (or I guess a lot) the rear axel torques a little bit. Wonder if that is what is making it do that? When I get off the gas the axel rolls back down causing the vibration. Wonder how to stop that. What you said sounds a lot like what is happening though. Thank you. God does it feel good to driver her though.
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So did you need a longer drive shaft to fix the issue or was it just a bad U-joint? The U-joints that I have are brand new so hopefully it isn't that but then again they are cheap so maybe it is better that it is a U-joint. Now that being said I did notice that when the Jeep is given a little bit a gas (or I guess a lot) the rear axle torques a little bit. Wonder if that is what is making it do that? When I get off the gas the axle rolls back down causing the vibration. Wonder how to stop that. What you said sounds a lot like what is happening though. Thank you. God does it feel good to driver her though.
what are your angles on your pinion yoke drive shaft and t case yoke/output? (f-ed up angles are the main cause of drive line vibes)
and you have axle wrap it is accepted as a normal thing that happens on a lifted leaf sprung jeep and it will get worse when you are in low range the only way to totaly cure axle wrap is an anti wrap bar but check your leaf spring u bolt torque i tighten the as tight as i can get them with a 3' breaker bar (about 200 ft-lbs) with used u bolts i have seen that cure mild axle wrap an a cj
what i see happening is when you are on the gas normally the pinion wraps up slightly (probably less than 5 degrees) putting your u-joint angles in a happy place and when you let off the gas the axle wrap goes away making the u-joint angles unhappy and it vibes i know on mine the vibes are worse on deceleration than acceleration
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On my CJ it was just a bad ujoint that I replaced and never had the problem again. What Adam just stated is also very true. Your vibration is coming from that general area. Rear driveshaft and ujoints are the vibration, but it could be from some axle wrap and loading and unloading the ujoints with the pinion angle you currently have. Did your lift come with wedges or have angles on the plate to account for the pinion angle change from being taller?
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When you were over my place you mentioned that the Jeep still had the t-case drop kit installed. With the drop kit it will throw your driveline angles off with a SYE. Check out Tom Woods website for some insight on driveline angles with the SYE. I had to pull the drop kit and go to different rear shims before I did the 8.8 swap to get the vibrations gone.
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The last time I can think of something like that happening to me was when I had my CJ7. It was the rear driveshaft. When accelerating everything stayed tight, but when I let go of the gas it would create a void in pressure and the ujoint was vibrating. It was shot and after doing this for about 3 weeks the ujoint gave up the ghost and the rear driveshaft fell out on me while driving it.
X2 one of your rear ujoints is bad, also double check all the straps that hold the u-joints on.
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you need differnt wedges the ones you have are most likly for a jeep with no sye