JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: toreadorranger on April 09, 2017, 12:32:52 AM
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Anyone with a JK have the rear brakes have to be replaced before the fronts? On my wifes 2014 JKU, I just had to do the rear pads and rotors. They were relatively even on both sides (driver/passenger) as far as wear goes, but they were down to the squealers on both sides.
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I think I've heard of this happening to others?
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after doing some more research it looks like its a combo of brake biasing and traction control. Seems very common on the JKs. Since the traction control uses the rear brakes to regain traction it tends to wear the rear pads faster.
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Bob replaced my rear pads at about 32k. Can't compare them to the front since we put the big brake kit up there last year. I have heard that the rears wear faster because of the brake lock differential in the back, kind of like a locker but it uses the brakes if a tire spins. Not sure how much use it actually gets though.
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My passenger caliper froze up and I had all pads and that caliper and rotor replaced last year, and now my driver side is heating up so I think it is doing the same.
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I've done only two JK brake jobs but both of them required one rear caliper replacement and the side that did not had decidedly more wear than the front set. I think Sue is right, it has to do with the traction control. I also noticed that with a 35 inch tires the traction control will trigger in a turn more often, myself and another guy that has run 35's have noticed this. I have not noticed it with the 31.5's on the new ride though. Also, back brakes can be a PITA because the e break will eventually trap the rotor on with corrosion. Takes a big hammer a lot of patience and a cool head!
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Yes you all are correct on traction control/stability control(save your ass when you do something stupid) safty nanny's that the government is making manufacturers put in these new vehicles now a days. Yes it will wear out pads,rotors and calipers quicker due to brake management but works very well. Saved my ass a few more times then I want to remember in all the crazy snow storms I have driven in(with Rock LOL). Problems are when you lift them with bigger tires it can make the jeep sway more. The computers think its going to roll so it takes over your throttle and brakes. Lifted my jeep and was kicking in all the time driving me crazy so I did the steering wheel dance and key cycling outlined in the owners manual (witch is not available in 2010 and up due to our lovely law makers). Now my jeep drives normal with abs only and rear pads & rotors last much longer. I have only replaced rear pads 3 times,RR caliper once and parking brake shoes once due to bent rear axel shafts(on my 3rd set)witch are a little rough on all rear brake parts. Only thing is most people say they had to replace there rear rotors and mine are completely original and never have been turned on a break lathe and has never had a break pulsation at all with 121k on the clock now. I have used only mopar pads cuz when I replaced the 1st set of rear pads at 25k there was no brake pulsation and rotors looked mint so stuck with factory pads and now on 3rd set of mopar pads and rotors are still mint. I have seen too many different brand after market brake pads with a stupid hard compound that chew up rotors and over heat them causing pulsating brakes. I have replaced fronts at 70k ish and rotors are still mint now. So saying do your research defore getting after market pads or just get the mopar pads. Quite,wear nice and not much more expensive then a good after market one. And when I say good I mean very few out there.