JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: Coqui on October 01, 2012, 03:11:38 PM
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Came out of the woods lastweekend with a gnarly vibration when I hit the gas pedal – Any suggestions?
Have a 05†TJ w/4†suspension kit.
Thinking it might be the DS alignment is off….any shops in the area that balance DS?
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I would look at ujoints before balancing of a driveshaft. Ujoints will go before the balancing would be off.
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Overland Driveshaft, in Montville, should be able to take care of you if thats the problem.
http://overlanddriveshaft.com/index.php?route=common/home (http://overlanddriveshaft.com/index.php?route=common/home)
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I would look at ujoints before balancing of a driveshaft. Ujoints will go before the balancing would be off.
X2. Also durring your inspection check to see if the drive shaft got hit.
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Good copy and all.....thnks!
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Overland wants somewhere around $50 to ballance a driveshaft. I asked about it a few years back.
Also check your skid plate. If it is bent in the right spot it will push the driveshaft to one side. Also check the rear control arm mounts.
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Any recommend on ujoints?
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Any recommend on ujoints?
cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it so you can warrenty it later
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Any recommend on ujoints?
I have at least one driveshaft ujoint and axle shaft ujoint left over from my 98 TJ if you want them. I've used the Autozone Duralast Gold joints that are non-greasable and never had a problem with them. A lot of them have warranties so I'd buy a new one at whatever store you normally pick up parts for your Jeep. Makes it easier to remember where they came from.
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Get under there & start moving u joints around till you fine a sloppy one. You will no when you find the bad one. If its causing a vibration on acell then its pritty sloppy.
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Looks like the rear DS upper ujoints have a little up n down play....skid plate looks good. Installed new upper control arm bolts...no joy. Guess will replace all four rear ujoint this weekend.
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Any recommend on ujoints?
cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it so you can warrenty it later
Not sure I agree with this. The reason people prefer non greasable u-joints us because the ones with a grease fitting are structurally weaker due to the hole drilled and tapped for the grease fitting in the body of the joint. The non grease joints dont have this hole in them for the grease fitting making the body of the joint solid and therefore stronger. So If your joint does have a grease fitting, smashing it to make it unusable did nothing to make the joint stronger. All that will do is make it unable to accept more grease which should be done regularly if you do happen to have a fitting. So, should you buy a u-joint that has a fitting, keep it intact and grease it regularly to push out old grease and dirt that makes its way in and is abrasive on the needle bearings. If you can, get a non-greasable one. But if you want to best of both worlds, order your joints from a real driveline place like Tom Woods Custom Driveshats. They make joints that have the grease fitting drilled into the end of the cap, not in the body of the joint. This keeps the joints structural integrity and allows the joint to be serviced filled with fresh grease regularly. I went to these joints this summer and after snapping joints all the time, have not broken one since. And I beat on them pretty good. They also make an offset U joint that will help with angle problems if you need it called the superflex joint. I use those too and love them.
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Any recommend on ujoints?
cheap and not greasable (i normally smash the grease fitting till it is not usable) and remeber where you bought it so you can warrenty it later
Not sure I agree with this. The reason people prefer non greasable u-joints us because the ones with a grease fitting are structurally weaker due to the hole drilled and tapped for the grease fitting in the body of the joint. The non grease joints dont have this hole in them for the grease fitting making the body of the joint solid and therefore stronger. So If your joint does have a grease fitting, smashing it to make it unusable did nothing to make the joint stronger. All that will do is make it unable to accept more grease which should be done regularly if you do happen to have a fitting. So, should you buy a u-joint that has a fitting, keep it intact and grease it regularly to push out old grease and dirt that makes its way in and is abrasive on the needle bearings. If you can, get a non-greasable one. But if you want to best of both worlds, order your joints from a real driveline place like Tom Woods Custom Driveshats. They make joints that have the grease fitting drilled into the end of the cap, not in the body of the joint. This keeps the joints structural integrity and allows the joint to be serviced filled with fresh grease regularly. I went to these joints this summer and after snapping joints all the time, have not broken one since. And I beat on them pretty good. They also make an offset U joint that will help with angle problems if you need it called the superflex joint. I use those too and love them.
yes all that is correct i did not go into the other reason for nongreasable joints my drive shafts are being pushed to the maximum angle possible before the joint binds an at angle the grease fitting gets smashed but one thing i do in preparation for a trail ride is pull the drive shafts and regrease them i do the joints by pulling the caps and stuffing blob of grease in them and checking to make sure all the needle bearings are intact and replace them as necessary my joints on my drive shafts are spicer lifetime crosses (taken from good drive shafts cause no one local can get spicer parts)with elcheapo caps and elcheapo needles
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Wow gearhead thats a ton of work which could all be avoided if you switch to superflex joints. It would fix your binding issues, and the fittings are on the caps so you would never have to pull the shafts again. Just grease and go. They are $60 each but it will be the last joint you buy for a while.
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Appreciate all the feedback!!!
Took the jeep over to overland driveshaft, they guy there looked at it was puzzled cause joints looked ok….Overall felt replacing them wouldn’t hurt.
Raised the jeep up on a lift, put in drive – noticed the first joint in the rear DS pushed up on the TC main shaft causing everything to shake.
After a few hours reading several Jeep forums, tom woods website…I guess I’m looking at risking to see if a MML ($50-$100) will work or SYE w/CV Shaft ($500) chi-chin!
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My 98 TJ sport had a 1" MML and a SYE with Tom Woods driveshaft for the 4" lift to keep the angles correct. I think I remember you having a 4" lift in your TJ. Did you do anything for your driveshaft angles with that lift (t-case drop, etc.)? If not, I'm surprised you didn't have problems already.
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Yes, RCA 4" n2.0 lift kit came w/TC drop....nothing else to adjust DSline. Any suggestions on MML?
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Wow gearhead thats a ton of work which could all be avoided if you switch to superflex joints. It would fix your binding issues, and the fittings are on the caps so you would never have to pull the shafts again. Just grease and go. They are $60 each but it will be the last joint you buy for a while.
not really concidering how often i go through u joint straps i break at least one in weekend of hard wheeling i would be fine if i could use ubolts on the tcase end but i have no room to get a wrench behind the yoke unless i pull the tcase skid life would be a lot better if i would add a 1" tcase drop but i would lose an 1" of clearance and i like not ever dragging my belly and my fix is better than super flex joint i am just going to install a hp d60 and remove the lp d44 and that will reduce my ds angles enough and add some 1350 joints i will be good (yes i know 1350 has less of an operating angle but i will be running lees droop and more up travle to even it out)
ex of light wheeling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aURyHLMm8Fs&feature=plcp
hard wheeling (not me the camera ran out of memory but i ran it right after this run and i took pretty much the same line)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGxozFHu5l8&feature=plcp
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Yes, RCA 4" n2.0 lift kit came w/TC drop....nothing else to adjust DSline. Any suggestions on MML?
I have JKS and they seem to be very well made. With 4.5 RE lift I have MML, SYE, and Tom Woods driveshaft.
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not really concidering how often i go through u joint straps i break at least one in weekend of hard wheeling i would be fine if i could use ubolts on the tcase end but i have no room to get a wrench behind the yoke unless i pull the tcase skid life would be a lot better if i would add a 1" tcase drop but i would lose an 1" of clearance and i like not ever dragging my belly and my fix is better than super flex joint i am just going to install a hp d60 and remove the lp d44 and that will reduce my ds angles enough and add some 1350 joints i will be good (yes i know 1350 has less of an operating angle but i will be running lees droop and more up travle to even it out)
ex of light wheeling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aURyHLMm8Fs&feature=plcp
hard wheeling (not me the camera ran out of memory but i ran it right after this run and i took pretty much the same line)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGxozFHu5l8&feature=plcp
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Sounds like a good plan. I run 1350's on my hp D60 and have 18* on my drive shaft and 5* caster. I went to 1350 yokes on both the ds and pinion and have a ton of clearance (angle wise). I have more clearance with the 1350's than with the stock 1330's that I snapped almost every time i wheeled hard. I havent broken anything since the switch and run a 1350 superflex to give it even more clearance. You shouldnt have any issues with operating angle but if you do rotate the knuckles before you install the axle. Just dont go below 3* positive.
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I know it is more $$, but the SYE and new driveshaft is the way to go. Besides fixing the driveline angles it also seals the back of the transfer case in the even you have to pull the rear driveshaft due to damage on the trail.
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I know it is more $$, but the SYE and new driveshaft is the way to go. Besides fixing the driveline angles it also seals the back of the transfer case in the even you have to pull the rear driveshaft due to damage on the trail.
x2 on this statement. With a SYE if you blow a rear driveshaft ujoint or mangle the rear driveshaft you can remove it and front wheel drive yourself out of the woods. Without it you lose your t-case fluid. Just an added security when on the trail.
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I know it is more $$, but the SYE and new driveshaft is the way to go. Besides fixing the driveline angles it also seals the back of the transfer case in the even you have to pull the rear driveshaft due to damage on the trail.
or go the real expensive route atlas
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I know it is more $$, but the SYE and new driveshaft is the way to go. Besides fixing the driveline angles it also seals the back of the transfer case in the even you have to pull the rear driveshaft due to damage on the trail.
x2 on this statement. With a SYE if you blow a rear driveshaft ujoint or mangle the rear driveshaft you can remove it and front wheel drive yourself out of the woods. Without it you lose your t-case fluid. Just an added security when on the trail.
Or you can just do what I do and get a cap, which installs over the end of the tcase and do the same thing for a whole lot cheaper than an SYE.
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The only reason manufactures installed the slip yoke into the Trans or T case was because it was cheeper and it worked fine for a stock vehical. Once you start to modify the rig then the stress on the tail shaft housing becomes to great and wears out quickly causing leaks at the tail shaft seal from wearing brass bushings and bearings in the tail shaft housing. Installing a SYE benifits in many ways but more so for short wheel base vehicals like the CJ's,YJ's &TJ's to extend the drive shaft a few inches to help reduce the operating angle. The NP231 and other Jeep T Cases are weak at the tail shaft area compaired to a 1/2 & larger truck T Case housing and also the angle of the rear drive shaft is not even close to a short wheel base jeep. What im trying to say is a standard slip yoke in a Fullsize 1/2 & up truck will hold up to more abuse than a standard slip yoke in a jeep but still will wear out. A SYE is a stronger design and will outlast any standard slipyoke off the tail shaft. Ford installed alot of Slip yokes in there drive shafts. Guess they felt it was worth it. GM, Dodge & Jeep just went the cheeper way. I do have to say you rearly see a leak at the tail shaft on a SYE style setup.
BTW we went far off the subject of "Vibration when I hit the gas pedal" LOL
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Still chasing the vibration gremlin that happens at around 25MPH and higher….
Transmission Mount looked good after removal and inspection.
Installed new Spicer ujoint rear DS.
What’s wired about the vibration is that it only happens while pressing the gas pedal.
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I would look at the pinion angle if it is only when on the skinny pedal. When accelerating the pinion wants to tip up. If you have adjustable control arms you might want to tilt the pinion down a degree and see if it helps.
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If the vibration was not there before you went wheelin then something is warn or loose. There is nothing better than a good visual inspection. If you did not see anything the first time then go back again because your missing something.
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Right on, Looking into a bent TC output shaft.
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Removed rear DS, took the jeep for a spin on 4hi......no vibrations.
Returned home got under the jeep noticed output shaft is bent and whobbly.
Anyone have a spare TC output shaft for NP231J that I can buy?
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So I read the post in the for sale section first. I have a box full of cones and shafts from the 3 or 4 SYE kits I have installed. One I know came out of a TJ just like yours, same color and everything (belonged to Brad for those that have been around a while). If you are going to the meeting/picnic at Ed and Mel's Saturday and I can bring my box of parts with me or call me and you can come by anytime and take a look at what I have. 860-326-6101 cell and 860-848-0092 home.
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Vibration is gone...$600 to install new adavance adapter SYE and new Tom wood's Rear DS, tools and supplies.
Finally have my bruiser back on the road.... Yeepee!!!
Thanks for all the tips everyone.....learn lots.
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Vibration is gone...$600 to install new adavance adapter SYE and new Tom wood's Rear DS, tools and supplies.
Finally have my bruiser back on the road.... Yeepee!!!
Thanks for all the tips everyone.....learn lots.
Glad to hear you got it fixed!!
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Vibration is gone...$600 to install new adavance adapter SYE and new Tom wood's Rear DS, tools and supplies.
Finally have my bruiser back on the road.... Yeepee!!!
Thanks for all the tips everyone.....learn lots.
Cash is the best tool made. Fixes a whole lot of problems.