JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: GreenGrandV8 on March 17, 2011, 09:07:28 PM
-
i was wonderin if anyone have installed SYE, and know how hard it is to do? cause in another month or 2 im gonna buy a 7" long arm kit and i would assume i willl need to do that got the lift. if you know anything let me know, thanks
-
I've done a few in a np231. Not that hard to do! once it's on the work bench about 30-45 minutes. You could also install it while the transfer case is still in but it's a little harder.
-
I have done several also. I did my first one on a bench and all the rest on the Jeep. On the bench is easier, but it is faster to just leave the NP231 in the Jeep. You will need a heavy duty set of snap ring pliers to get the job done. I just bought a new set from sears that are designed for the snap rings that are slit. I think they were about $15, so not a big expense.
Make sure you use a good quality gasket maker to prevent leaks and make sure all the wires will remain clear when done.
-
Hey Rock, doesn't the V8 zj run the NP242?
GreenGrand-What brand lift kit/shocks you gonna run? Clayton? ;D FOX? ;D
-
i think its an np249
-
I'm not sure on the V8, jeep used a couple different ones on the 4.0L's. I checked his profile and rig section but there is nothing listed.
REMINDER TO ALL, update you rig spec's as you upgrade, It makes it easier for everyone to answer you questions when we know what you have.
I don't think the 242 or 249 is much different from the 231 in terms of installing a SYE.
-
The 249 has a vicus cuppler(sealed clutch pack) & the 242 has an open style diff instead of the cluch pack to give you the 4wd full time option. Have herd that the 249 can cause drive line vibration on lifts of 3in & above. Ditch the 249 & go with a 231. All ZJ V8"s had the 249. Don"t think the 242 was offered in the V8 ZJ but was offered in the WJ with the 4.7l V8. Not shure they make a SYE kit for the 242 but then I could be wrong.
-
The 249 has a vicus cuppler(sealed clutch pack) & the 242 has an open style diff instead of the cluch pack to give you the 4wd full time option. Have herd that the 249 can cause drive line vibration on lifts of 3in & above. Ditch the 249 & go with a 231. All ZJ V8"s had the 249. Don"t think the 242 was offered in the V8 ZJ but was offered in the WJ with the 4.7l V8. Not shure they make a SYE kit for the 242 but then I could be wrong.
I'm going through this issue right now because i have a 242. Mostly you would have to do a hack n tap, but if you look really hard there are other options. Might be easier to just do a 231 swap and install an SYE while you have the case on the bench. ???
-
i would go the 231 route
-
i would go the 231 route
not to mention the 231 is stronger than the other 2
-
i would go the 231 route
not to mention the 231 is stronger than the other 2
X2 on that!! Unless you can find a Dana 300 or NP205. Otherwise if you got the cash then go with an Atlas. But for a direct bolt in the NP231 is the best option.
-
Taking in the previous five or six posts, i would say, ditch the stocker you got in there now, and spend what you would already be spending on a reman. 231 + SYE, add a little more cash to that amount and buy your self a ATLAS 2 speed, or a STAK 2 speed. Theyre both comparible in price to a built 231 w/ a SYE, but a whole lot stronger, i mean frickin bullet proof. $.02 more to ya!!
-
i would say alot more cash but yea the atlas is a beast
-
Not sure if this would be the exact match, but you could play with the options to mountn up directly. this one is fitted for a TJ with a AX-15 Manual transmission, with 1310 CV style yokes front and rear.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/view_cart.php
And these are some suggestions to build a stock 231 to match the durability of an ATLAS or a STAK. But it still wouldnt be as strong.
-Low Range Conversion.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52254_101_07.htm
-SYE Kit
http://www.quadratec.com/cart/cart.php?add0=52237+900+07
-Drive shaft
http://www.4xshaft.com/ (Probably between 300.00 and 400 dollars.
When youadd it all up, it wouldn't be that much of a difference.
-
Taking in the previous five or six posts, i would say, ditch the stocker you got in there now, and spend what you would already be spending on a reman. 231 + SYE, add a little more cash to that amount and buy your self a ATLAS 2 speed, or a STAK 2 speed. Theyre both comparible in price to a built 231 w/ a SYE, but a whole lot stronger, i mean frickin bullet proof. $.02 more to ya!!
or d300 or a STAK RAC
-
thanks for the help guys. and i do have the np231 in it i swapped it from awd and changed the input gear cause the size. cant wait to get the 7" long arm kit , but i gooda but the sye and i would assume a drive shaft.
-
Yes, you absolutley must buy a SYE and a new shaft to run 7". Holy bejesus thats alot of coil. Who are you going through for your lift? Clayton, Rock krawler, and TNT customs make some badass ZJ gear. Pricey, but worth every dime. There' shit's bulletproof.
-
what size tire are you running with that lift. i am assuming since u haven't said anything about an axle swap ur lift is way to high
-
i agree with flex. You can roll 35's MAX on those stocker axles, unless you gotta lead foot. you'd be safer stayin on 33's withy a 5.5 inch lift, either way, still run an SYE.
-
im gonna get the lift from ironrockoffroad its the 7" premium long arm kit. i will prob roll oin my 33's cause there brand new then matbe 35-37 if possible. wouldnt mind doin some axle upgrades but i havnt learned a hole lot about that yet unfortunately.
-
iron rock off road has a dana 30 axle truss looks nice but im not sure if that is gonna do a lot
-
thanks for the help guys. and i do have the np231 in it i swapped it from awd and changed the input gear cause the size. cant wait to get the 7" long arm kit , but i gooda but the sye and i would assume a drive shaft.
Yes you will need a new drive shaft with a fixed yoke. Tom Woods is a great company, but you can also go with the local shop Montville.
-
Dont put money into those stock axles!!! If your gonna do it, do it right from the beginning. That's why the only thing I've done to my rig in a long time is the steering Troll pirate4x4.com and keep your eyes open. There are literally thousands of write-ups on lifts, driveline changes and axle upgrades/swaps. If your gonna roll 33's, your factory diffs can handle it, even locked, if your easy on the throttle, but a 7" lift? That'll throw your COG to the moon. you'd better think about a cage being that high up. Just kidding, slightly. Also, don't worry about truss'in the D30 unless you plan racing this thing in the JeepSpeed challenge or King of The Hammers. Also watch craigslist and Pirate4x4 in the "for sale" section of their' forum. people are always ditchin their junk for bigger stuff. I've seen probably 3 or for TJ and JK D44's go for next to nothin just this month alone. Not sayin D$$'s are gonna be the best longterm option if your gonna roll 37's or something, but they will last longer than transmission if you only run 35's or smaller, plus, other than a 8.8 rear end out of a Ranger or Explorer, they are probably gonna be the easiest to modify for you ZJ's needs. That rig does not need 7"s of lift unless your going to roll 35's or bigger. Not trying to piss in your cherios dude, but i'd really hate for you to put in all the $ and time to just be disappointed with the finished outcome.
Another $.02 from The Bank of Swagger.
PS. Read EVERYTHING you can on pirate4x4.com. The yahoo's that post their junk on there are stupid talented at what they do, and there's so much info there that a person could build a no-shit, all jokes aside comp rig from start to finish on their first ever build, AND compete with the other rigs in the amateur and pro-am lines of competition.