JT4x4
The Mud Pit => General => Topic started by: Mr Rock on February 17, 2010, 12:22:54 AM
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Ok, so after talking to Rodger and Nate, I went on line to research the Aussie and ended up ordering one for my front axle.
You guys talked me into it! (at least that's what I"ll tell the wife when she finds out!)
Now, I just need to find a manual vacuum switch so that I can control the disconnect, anyone have any ideas? I recently ran all new vacuum lines and have not had any problems with the disconnect, so I would like to stay with vacuum vs a cable posi-lock. and i want to be able to disconnect and be in three wheel drive at select times. There is nothing wrong with the switch in my transfer case, but it is spring loaded so will not work as I want it to.
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Check valvestore.com they should have any kind or valve you could possibly need. i took a look before i posted this and i think if i where doing it i would go with a solenoid operated 1/2" or 1/4" 12V powered valve which they have.
But keep in mind they are little pricey, but maybe you could just wire up what every currently controls the vacuum pressure now to work when u want it to would probably be alot cheaper
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Since I ripped all the vacuum lines out (actually a stick did most of the work for me) and I went to solid axles I am looking into a 2wd LO kit for the NP231. Since I have an Aussie in the 8.8, I could roll in 2wd Lo until I hit the hard stuff and then go to 4wd low.
Rock, you may want to look into 95 YJ axle shafts. You have the smaller U-joints and the 95s are the only years that have the larger U-joints and the disco. The difference in U-joint size equates to a 33% increase in strength. The guy that bought my original D30 put an aussie into his 1990 YJ D30 and his first time out he destroyed the whole drivers side of the axle when his U-joint broke and took out the wheel bearing, the upper ball joint and damaged the axle housing. He said he was stuck in some mud and gave it a lot of gas, but he was only running 31s. ::)
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Since I ripped all the vacuum lines out (actually a stick did most of the work for me) and I went to solid axles I am looking into a 2wd LO kit for the NP231. Since I have an Aussie in the 8.8, I could roll in 2wd Lo until I hit the hard stuff and then go to 4wd low.
Rock, you may want to look into 95 YJ axle shafts. You have the smaller U-joints and the 95s are the only years that have the larger U-joints and the disco. The difference in U-joint size equates to a 33% increase in strength. The guy that bought my original D30 put an aussie into his 1990 YJ D30 and his first time out he destroyed the whole drivers side of the axle when his U-joint broke and took out the wheel bearing, the upper ball joint and damaged the axle housing. He said he was stuck in some mud and gave it a lot of gas, but he was only running 31s. ::)
Kirk,
I would never use that much skinny petal!!
Did you use the disco axle tube and just blank off the disco?
If I went with solid shafts, what year XJ should I look for?
Nate, Trust me, I tried to rig up the transfer case switch but I haven't been able to find a way to make it work! I'll check out that site though.
Thanks,
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If I went with solid shafts, what year XJ should I look for?,
96 and newer
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If I went with solid shafts, what year XJ should I look for?,
96 and newer
Agree
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x3 on the 96+ shafts. I did make a plate for the axle housing where the disco was. I also used an XJ T-case switch and elecrical connector to make the 4wd light work on the dash. Another advantage is that the majority of the guys in the club are running TJs or newer XJs so they all run the same axle shafts so the chances of someone having a spare is pretty good. I know I always carry a spare set.
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wow this is confusing me. So should I upgrade my shafts on my dana 30? since mine is a 93? or because I had ABS axle are they ok? It would be good to be on the same page as everyone else. Sorry Rock, had to ask the Q's.
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wow this is confusing me. So should I upgrade my shafts on my dana 30? since mine is a 93? or because I had ABS axle are they ok? It would be good to be on the same page as everyone else. Sorry Rock, had to ask the Q's.
It seems like I read somewhere that the XJs with ABS had the larger ujoints already in the D30. Rock doesn't have a problem with running the smaller shafts with an open front axle, but by locking it he is going to be putting a lot more stress on the system and will want to upgrade. Until you are ready to lock the front axle I wouldn't worry about yours at all and I'll have to look at the different between the ABS shafts/ujoints and the non-ABS.
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wow this is confusing me. So should I upgrade my shafts on my dana 30? since mine is a 93? or because I had ABS axle are they ok? It would be good to be on the same page as everyone else. Sorry Rock, had to ask the Q's.
It seems like I read somewhere that the XJs with ABS had the larger ujoints already in the D30. Rock doesn't have a problem with running the smaller shafts with an open front axle, but by locking it he is going to be putting a lot more stress on the system and will want to upgrade. Until you are ready to lock the front axle I wouldn't worry about yours at all and I'll have to look at the different between the ABS shafts/ujoints and the non-ABS.
All cherokee with abs have the bigger u joints and if u want to upgrade those more u can get the spicer 760 u joints that are pretty awesome.
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All cherokee with abs have the bigger u joints and if u want to upgrade those more u can get the spicer 760 u joints that are pretty awesome.
Those 760 ujoints are nice, but I think I'll stick with the 297s for the point of keeping my weakest component out on the end where it is more easily repaired. I'm afraid of the 760 joints just for the sake of coming too close to the strength of the pumpkin. Now, If I trussed my front axle so there wouldn't be any flexing of the tubes then I would consider 760 joints. Flexing of the tubes is what causes a lot of the breakage on a D30 as well as a D35.
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All cherokee with abs have the bigger u joints and if u want to upgrade those more u can get the spicer 760 u joints that are pretty awesome.
Those 760 ujoints are nice, but I think I'll stick with the 297s for the point of keeping my weakest component out on the end where it is more easily repaired. I'm afraid of the 760 joints just for the sake of coming too close to the strength of the pumpkin. Now, If I trussed my front axle so there wouldn't be any flexing of the tubes then I would consider 760 joints. Flexing of the tubes is what causes a lot of the breakage on a D30 as well as a D35.
Roger r u still planning on going with the rustys truss? I looked around for a truss that was a little bit beefier that would still utilize the stock upper control arm mounts but i couldnt find any, anybody know of any that work that way. If i cant find on i think im gonna do the rustys truss also.
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I haven't run across any other trusses that don't require taking off coil buckets and doing a lot of work so I'll probably be going with the Rustys truss in the near future.
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great thing about it is if I hate it i was only $25
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ok that answers my question, cuz I was pretty positive I had the 297s because it was an ABS axle. I just got confused when Adam said 96+ XJ.
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I haven't run across any other trusses that don't require taking off coil buckets and doing a lot of work so I'll probably be going with the Rustys truss in the near future.
x2......if I ever move back to CT
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^if my buddy gets his CJ like he plans, you guys can start the NH JT sect. Hes at Portsmouth shipyard also, as a cop.