JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: Swagger on September 01, 2009, 04:03:06 AM
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So, a guy on my boat cracked his block on his late 90's doge 1/2 ton pickup. He's wantin to part it out, so i offered him to help him do the destruct-olition plus a few bucks at his rear diff and possibly front diff, depending what they are. I have a feeling that they are D44's F/R, possibly a D60 in the rear. I know that they are deffinatley wider than the set up on my rig right now. does anyone have any insight as to what the axles probably are, and bigger thing, is this a doable swap on a low budget. PaulW, i think this question is right down your alley. Any advice is welcome, and hopefully, down the rode, a plasma cutter and a mig will be to.
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the rear is most likely a 10.25 if your looking for good donor axles look for a waggy with a driver side drop those will handle 38's like you want
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Post a pic of the rear are you looking to go Full width or Do you want to stay about the same width as your current rig
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You should send a PM to jmwendler (Jim aka Tie rod). He is a big Dodge guy and wheels a full size ram, until it needed a ton of work. He is still around but not very active on here. If you send him a PM and he has it linked to his email he should get the message.
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1st, torches would be a lot easier to cut the metal off the axles then my plasma, with torches you can wash the old metal off. A plasma just cuts stiff and it's really hard to wash the outer layer of steel off and leave the good steel (the housing) to where you just have to put 20 minutes to with the grinder, but if you want to save the brackets for reuse so you can patch them back on the plasma is the way to go, and a welder is just a matter of where we're going to leave your truck for 2 days.
But there's an easy way to identify what the axles are. Use the body code plate..if you can give me the vin I can decode it, but most 4wd came with a dana 44 front and either a chrysler 9 1/4 or dana 60 rear. Read below for more info. (Wouldn't want to hijack YOUR thread though..)
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/flexj/jeeps%20and%20quads%20and%20stuff/56545564.gif[/IMG
LOCATION
The Body Code Plate is located on the floor pan under the passenger seat or attached to the front face of the radiator closure panel.
DECODING INFORMATION
* There are seven lines of information on the body code plate.
* Service information reads from left to right, starting with line 3 in the center of the plate to line 1 at the bottom of the plate.
* Lines 4, 5, 6, and 7 are not used to define service information.
* The last code imprinted on a vehicle code plate will be followed by the imprinted word END. When two vehicle code plates are required, the last available spaces on the first plate will be imprinted with the letters CTD (for continued).
When a second vehicle code plate is necessary, the first four spaces on each row will not be used because of the plate overlap.
LINE 3
Digits 1 Through 12 - Vehicle Order Number
Digits 13, 14, and 15 - Open Space
Digits 16, 17 and 18 - Vehicle Shell Car Line
* BR1 = 1500 4X2
* BR6 = 1500 4X4
* BR2 = 2500 4X2
* BR7 = 2500 4X4
* BR3 = 3500 4X2
* BR8 = 3500 4X4
Digit 19 - Price Class
* L = Ram Truck (All)
Digits 20 and 21 - Body Type
* 31 = Ram Truck Club Cab (138.7 inch Wheel base)
* 32 = Ram Truck Club Cab (154.7 inch Wheel base)
* 61 = Ram Truck (118.7 inch Wheel base)
* 62 = Ram Truck (134.7 inch Wheel base)
* 63 = Ram Truck Cab Chassis (138.7 inch Wheel base)
* 64 = Ram Truck Cab Chassis (162.7 inch Wheel base)
LINE 2
Digits 1, 2 and 3 - Paint Procedure
Digit 4 - Open Space
Digits 5 Through 8 - Primary Paint
Digit 9 - Open Space
Digits 10 Through 13 - Secondary Paint
Digit 14 - Open Space
Digits 15 Through 18 - Interior Trim Code
Digit 19 - Open Space
Digits 20, 21 And 22 - Engine Code
* EHC = 3.9L 6 cyl. MPI Gasoline
* ELF = 5.2L 8 cyl. MPI Gasoline
* ELN = 5.2L 8 cyl. CNG
* EML = 5.9L 8 cyl. MPI Gasoline
* EMM = 5.9L 8 cyl. MPI Gasoline Heavy Duty
* ETB = 5.9L 6 cyl. Turbo Diesel
* EWA = 8.0L 10 cyl. MPI Gasoline
Digit 23 - Open Space
LINE 1
Digits 1, 2, AND 3 - Transaxle Codes
* DGB = 4 Speed Automatic (47RE)
* DGT = 4 Speed Automatic (46RE)
* DGK = 4 Speed Automatic (42RE)
* DDP = 5 Speed Manual (NVG-4500)
* DDX = 5 Speed Manual (NVG-4500 Heavy Duty)
* DDC = 5 Speed Manual (NVG-3500)
Digit 4 - Open Space
Digit 5 - Market Code
* B = International
* C = Canada
* M = Mexico
* U = United States
Digit 6 - Open Space
Digits 7 Through 23 - Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
NOTE: Refer to VIN Information for proper decoding of VIN.
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VIN ID. (is this considered still on topic if i have changed this thread into a dodge vin identification lesson??)
1st POSITION
COUNTRY
1 = United States
3 = Mexico
2nd POSITION
MANUFACTURER
B = Dodge
3rd POSITION
VEHICLE TYPE
4 = Multipurpose Passenger
5 = Bus
6 = Incomplete
7 = Truck
4th POSITION
G.V.W.R.
H = 6,001 - 7,000 lbs
J = 7,001 - 8,000 lbs
K = 8,001 - 9,000 lbs
L = 9,001 - 10,000 lbs
M = 10,001 - 14,000 lbs
W = Hydraulic Brakes
5th POSITION
TRUCKLINE
C = Ram Cab Chassis/Ram Pick Up (4X2)
F = Ram Cab Chassis/Ram Pick Up (4X4)
6th POSITION
TRUCK SERIES
1 = 1500
2 = 2500
3 = 3500
7th POSITION
BODY STYLE
2 = Club Cab
3 = Quad Cab
6 = Conventional Cab/Cab Chassis
8th POSITION
ENGINE CODE
D = 5.9L 6cyl. Diesel
W = 8.0L 10 cyl. MPI
X = 3.9L-V6, MPI
Y = 5.2L-V8, MPI
Z = 5.9L-V8, MPI-LDC
5 = 5.9L-V8, MPI-HDC
9th POSITION
CHECK DIGIT
10th POSITION
MODEL YEAR
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
11th POSITION
ASSEMBLY PLANT
J = St. Louis North
S = Dodge City
G = Saltillo
M = Lago Alberto Assembly
12th Thru 17th POSITION
PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER
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the rear is most likely a 10.25 if your looking for good donor axles look for a waggy with a driver side drop those will handle 38's like you want
I have to disagree on the Waggy 44. I almost went down that alley with Big Yeller, including buying a set. The problem comes in to the bolt pattern on the Waggy. It's a 6 lug pattern. It can be changed, but it's not easy. As far as a budget goes, I didn't get far enough into it to be able to tell you that. Paul could probably chime in here with more info. I say keep the axles the way they are, with the exception of repositioning the brackets to fit your TJ. You will have to get a bracket kit (try Mountain Offroad Enterprises) which will run you somewhere between $200-400 for the rear axle. The axles out of that truck would easily handle anything you wanted to throw under your jeep. It would make a great winter project.
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the rear is most likely a 10.25 if your looking for good donor axles look for a waggy with a driver side drop those will handle 38's like you want
his late 90's doge 1/2 ton pickup.
10 1/4 wasn't in the 1/2 ton
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the rear is most likely a 10.25 if your looking for good donor axles look for a waggy with a driver side drop those will handle 38's like you want
I have to disagree on the Waggy 44. I almost went down that alley with Big Yeller, including buying a set. The problem comes in to the bolt pattern on the Waggy. It's a 6 lug pattern. It can be changed, but it's not easy. As far as a budget goes, I didn't get far enough into it to be able to tell you that. Paul could probably chime in here with more info. I say keep the axles the way they are, with the exception of repositioning the brackets to fit your TJ. You will have to get a bracket kit (try Mountain Offroad Enterprises) which will run you somewhere between $200-400 for the rear axle. The axles out of that truck would easily handle anything you wanted to throw under your jeep. It would make a great winter project.
4wd ram is 6 lug. 2wd is 5 lug
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anything over 36's you'll want dana 60's. even well built dana 44's still snap on 38's. but enough off topic, this thread is about what rear is in a dodge ram 1500. answer. dana 60 or chrysler 9 1/4
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paul you are right about the rears. pete
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paul you are right about the rears. pete
It was actually a Who Wants to Be a Millionare question.
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and you didnt need a lifeline?? pete
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and you didnt need a lifeline?? pete
50/50 since there was only 2 rear ends ;D