JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: footman on March 24, 2008, 03:36:15 PM
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So after going out on sat and seeing my limitations. I now see the need to go higher, not just to navigate more challenging stuff but to help portect my Jeep. With that said I also need to think about that this Jeep is my primamry driver and I'm on a limited budget. Ok so I'm guessing its been done before but I have to ask, has there been a review done that compares the multitude of 4" lifts out there and would you be willing to give your opinions on such lifts. I want to do my homework and get the best bang for my buck.
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i can't say much on tj lifts, but as far as armor goes, save your money and put it into a good lift! fabircate as much of your own armor as possible and upgrade as you can. bad apple makes some good diff covers that you couldn't build at their cost. The factory skid plate an a jeep will last a while, throw some angle iron on your rockers and go. don't cheat your lift for a fancy "light bracket" bumper. there is a lot of cost setting up a new rig. ie: jack, tow straps, fire extingusher, tires, lift, wheels, cb, breakage. and if you're thinking 4" or more I believe there is a lot of geomertry involved with the steering. (tj guys help me out). either way jeeps are pretty capabile out of the box. most of us started with a 2" budget lift and disconnects. that alone will open up your jeep to a whole new world and you can still take it on the highway, add a locker or two and it's a prudy darn good start. a plus for the budget lift is that when you decide to go higher, you can still use the budget boost to gain that 2" again. just my thoughts, good luck with the build.
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I agree with Reg. There are some places to try and save money on. Your lift is not really one of those areas. You get what you pay for in a lift. The 2" budget boosts are great to get started and allow you some space to save up money for the real lift.
As for the geometry stuff. Well there are some ways to get it done cheap with some risks then there are some ways to get it done right. Its not cheap. Adjustable track bar and drop down pitman arm are the way to go for steering. Good lifts will come with everything else you need.
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Rubicon Express 3.5" all the way. It rides pretty close to stock. But the super flex kit will cost you around 900 bucks. standard kit will cost you 600. Then with the 4" lift you will need SYE and drive shaft, $350 roughly. I agree that do it right the first time. I had a BB and just wanted more. Welcome to the addiction.
I am just about where I want to be now. Lockers and skid plates next.
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Hey man. These guys know a lot more than I do. I got a 3" Teraflex basic kit for $475.00. Springs,bumpstops,drop pitman arm,rear sway bar xtensions,track bar bracket. I've added Teraflex quick disconnects which I love($100), & gone from 31's to 33's. The 33's definately made a difference. McNatsty Nate got a 4" lift with front & rear lower control arms + all the goodies I've named minus the disconnects for a little over $500 he said. I can't recall what company though. You might want to pm him. Most I've heard anything over 3" you'll want a SYE & driveshaft combo to eliminate vibration, but like I said,I'm pretty much a rookie. That's my 2 beans worth.
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i echo everything these guys say,
i am a taco guy
i went with quality and what would be tougher, last longer, and overall support what i wanted for my rig.
just know what you want, and all the quoted prices are very realistic.
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X2... Shop around online and see what's in your budget and what looks good. When you find something you like, post it here with a link and we'll help you disect it. Our jeeps have an array of lifts on them, so chances are one of us already owns it, has seen it, or got rid of it. Try and find a lift that includes as many components for a complete setup as possible, while staying as close to your budget as you can.
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yeah i got a 4" rough country lift from jc whitney http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2011491/c-10108/Nty-1/p-2011491/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-2006+10108+200004043/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=rough+country. It was pretty easy to put on and i didn't run into any problems that weren't my own fault. I like it a lot and feel like i got more than i paid for especially since similar kits are up around 800$ from other companies and this one was only 520$.
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rough country has been making lots of changes, they are setting a new standard and hopefully everyone will soon follow. It is there goal to provide cheap quality lifts. They are good, but do have some issues. Some of the metal they use is not as high of quality as other company's but it does hold up. For the money it is a good lift. But just shop around and talk to the dealers.
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OK so my 57 chevy truck is now up for sale and I have a guy coming to look at it tonight. If it sells, CA-CHING! I have in mind what I would like but the more research I do for this my likes and price keep going up. Thanks for all the advice, I do trully appriciate it.
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dude! you are selling an old chevy and didnt' tell me? I did think you were cool. got a pic?
sorry, didnt' mean to hijack this thread
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Yee haaaa, I sold the truck! Hello lift here I come!
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Congratulations! You'll be riding higher in no time!
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Congrats on selling the truck! I wish i had the money/time for another project!
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OK so I have $1800 to play with +/- a few $100. From what I've learned, I think and please correct me if I'm wrong, is that a long arm lift performs better both on road and wheeling. A good friend of mine who does alot of wheeling out west introduced me to Full Traction. I've read what they are about and how they work and I'm buying into it. What I'm not buying into is their price, I would if I had won powerball last night. Is there a company out there comparable to them? OR, am I completly out of my gord here with the whole long arm lift and should stick with a short arm? Man this money is burning a whole in my pocket! Oh yeah one last question, can I use my stock rims if I go with 33's?
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From personal experience, long arm lifts suck on the road, but they rock offroad. Just depends on what you get.
Here's my brand, Rock Krawler, in a complete 4" short arm system. The only thing I think you would need in addition to the lift would be a slip yoke eliminator kit and cv driveshaft. You can get a combo from Carolina Driveline for about $350 including shipping. Cheapest deal anywhere, and it's quality stuff. So I'd say with this setup, that brings your grand total to around $2000 after shipping and taxes. The good news is Rock Krawler is in NY, so shipping is el cheapo and it only takes a couple of days to get here. Rock Krawler also makes the same 4" system in a long arm. www.rockkrawler.com (http://www.rockkrawler.com), www.carolinadriveline.com (http://www.carolinadriveline.com)
SKU: RKTJ40XF+SA
Suggested Retail: $1,549.00
The Rock Krawler 4.0 X Factor Plus Short Arm System is the ultimate short arm system on the market today. This system allows you to run 33" tires with unparalleled articulation and ability. This system includes everything in our flex system with the added benefits of front upper high misalignment/adjustable control arms and the rear triangulated 4-link conversion that allows removal of the rear track bar. This gives you the ultimate in vehicle balance coupled with rear anti-squat geometry for excellent climbing ability. This system maintains an excellent highway ride quality that TJ owners have become accustomed to. Try to find all of these great qualities in any other short arm system. That won't happen! Don't forget this system comes with our exclusive abuse proof lifetime guarantee on all hard parts!
System Benefits:
-Excellent Highway Ride and Handling
-The Best Off Road Ability of any Short Arm System!
-RTI 1100+ on a 20 Degree Ramp
-Allows for 33" Tires
-Limited Lifetime Warranty
-Upgradeable to long arm system
System Includes:
4 linear coil springs, 4 high misalignment/double-adjustable lower control arms made from solid stock, front high misalignment/adjustable track bar made from solid stock, rear triangulated 4 link conversion with triangulated 4 link arms made from solid stock, rear triangulated 4 link mounting cradle/axle truss made from 1/4" thick laser cut steel, front upper high misalignment/adjustable control arms made from solid stock, front adjustable sway bar disconnects, rear extended sway bar links, stainless steel brake lines, rear upper reinforcing mounts, drop pitman arm, hardware and detailed instructions.
*Available for any front axle and the following rear axles: Dana 35, Dana 44, Dana 44 Al, Dana 60, Ford 8.8, and Tera 60
**Requires a transfer case drop kit, or a C.V. Driveshaft Conversion, or a SYE with C.V. Driveshaft Conversion
***2003 TJ's equipped with 4 speed automatics will require removal of the factory automatic transmission skid plate if so equipped to allow for proper front driveshaft travel
Options:
* Bolt in rear mounting system versus the weld on rear cradle available upon special request. Lead time may apply.
** Requires removal of the OEM rear upper control arm mounts off the rear axle for weld on rear cradle.
Recommended Accessories:
- Transfer Case Drop Kit - $20.00
- Rock Krawler X Factor Plus Steering - $349.00
- Rock Krawler Adjustable Weld In Poly Foam Bump Stops - $115 per pair.
- Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator with C.V. Driveshaft from Six States - $450.00
- Rubicon Model Rear C.V. Driveshaft Conversion from Six States - $315.00
Shock Notes: It is recommended that high quality shocks be used with all Rock Krawler Suspension Systems. At a very minimum an adjustable dampening rate shock such as a MX-6 or RS9000 so you can choose your ride quality!
Front Shock - 17" Collapsed to 29" Extended
Reference MX6013 with Daystar EVS Jounce Stop
or Fox Racing Shox Part Number 980-99-282-A
Rear Shock - 16" Collapsed to 26" Extended
Reference MX6027 with Daystar EVS Jounce Stop
or Fox Racing Shox Part Number 980-99-271-A
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Oh yeah one last question, can I use my stock rims if I go with 33's?
you could, but shouldn't. the stock wheels are too narrow unless you are planing on running skinny tires. usally you can find a good package deal where you get some superswamper on rockcrawler black rims for around a 1000, give or take a hundred. I recommend searching the fourms for some used, already mounted ones. I picked up a set of 5 mounted bfg, km's 33X12.5 with crager soft eights for 750, and they were like new. I'll keep my eyes open. check www.cave76.org (http://www.cave76.org), there are a lot of good people over there with lots of extra stuff laying around!
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http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3084 (http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3084)
(http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/40818/2437848690101033819S600x600Q85.jpg)
he's asking 300
and he just signed up on our fourm too!
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http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2841 (http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2841)
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http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3028 (http://www.cave76.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3028)
you get the idea, the deals are everywhere.
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Send a pm to Heavy Chevy... His wife works at a tire store nearbye and they could help you swing a good deal.
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i'd hop on the interco's, they are a great tire, and not to shabby, for a first set of sneakers for the trail.
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He's asking $300. Is that cat included? ;D
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If you have $1800 to play with for the lift and such, look into the Rubicon Express Superflex 3.5". Its a great short arm lift with lots of flex and can be purchased for about 900 bucks. Add a slip yoke elim. and the cv driveshaft for around 400 I think and the rest can be put towards a new set of 33" meats. We have run this lift on Kral4me's TJ for over 4 years now and ChiefKP just put one on his Unlimited. Install time for the lift was about 6 hours he said. One eye has done SYE before and could answer any questions you have about that part. Just my opinion, I'm biased towards the rubicon express because we have had zero problems with it
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just keep doing your home work bayougold just went through this and his thread is on the forum somewhere. and all of us have been through this before so dont be afraid to ask any ques. to any of us. and dont get to worried abour the money burning a hole in your pocket you own a jeep and it tends to find the money and eat it up quick hahahaha.
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4x4GroupBuy.com has a complete 4.5" Rubicon Express kit + SYE & Tom Woods drive shaft deal for $1550.
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Firstly I would like to say thank you to all your comments and opinions. I think I'm really leaning towards the Rubicon 4.5" lift w/SYE and CV shaft that Bayougold told me about. Theres just one thing I'm stuck on. From what I've read is that anything over 3" they say the long arm lift is the way to go. It will cut down on jolting shocks upon impact. So my main question to you is just how much of an increase in drivability is there of a long arm over a short arm? If I do go with the short arm, at a later date can I add my 2" spacers to make it a total of 6" lift?
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can I add my 2" spacers to make it a total of 6" lift?
I wouldn't recomend using spacers over lift springs, though I know it has been done, it seems like a bit much to put a joint that can pop sideway's at the top of a lift spring
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steve
post a link to the lift you are going to buy so we can make sure you won't be stuck needing to make modifications on the fly while you're rig is on the lift.
and a couple cans of pb blaster wouldn't hurt either.
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here's the link
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/rubicon-express-re7000-superflex-combo-p-40.html
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my only question,
longer shocks? ? ? ? ? ? ?
your stock shocks will limit your travel....
calling all jeep's for a ruling on the field.
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That's a good deal imo.
GO LONG ARM!!!
Oh, and Hot Rod is right, you need to replace your shocks. The stock ones will kill the lift.
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thanks, i didn't want to get "lift knowledge" cocky. but i was thinkiing stock shocks would limit your travel by quite a bit.
ALSO!!!!
you dont need a rear swaybar (my 2ct)
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X2!!!
"Lift cockey"!? HA! YOU DA LIFT NINJA MASTA!!! ;D
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That's a good deal imo.
GO LONG ARM!!!
If you can find me a deal as good as this but LA I'd snatch it up in a second.
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so I ordered my lift today. And I got and email back asking me questions that I need your help with bc i'm clueless, see below. Plus did you guys have to measure for your CV shaft?
Did you want to Add RE Monotubes to your order for $250.00 more?
There are a couple upgrades too that are available. Long Travel and Premium. $25 and $40 extra. Let me know if you want to upgrade. If vehicle will be used off road a lot, it is a good idea to at least go up to the Long Travel... Both Upgrades are picture in the Guide I have attached...
The S spline is a conventional spline stub that will yield a safe, effective and usable stroke of 3â€. The X spline is longer than the S spline. The X spline is cut for the full length of the spline stub. This gives a bit more than twice the contact area between the slip yoke and spline stub and a stroke of 4-1/2". This in and of itself will net more than twice the life on these two components.
With the XB configuration, we will use a heavy rubber boot which is banded down with stainless steel banding to seal all of the contaminates out and keep the grease in. The XC configuration uses the same slip yoke & spline stub but instead of using the rubber boot, we drill and tap the slip yoke for a grease fitting and use a dust cap which has convolutions that follow the spline stub for sealing. We consider the XB configuration to be the longest lasting and best value.
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Did you want to Add RE Monotubes to your order for $250.00 more?
There are a couple upgrades too that are available. Long Travel and Premium. $25 and $40 extra. Let me know if you want to upgrade. If vehicle will be used off road a lot, it is a good idea to at least go up to the Long Travel... Both Upgrades are picture in the Guide I have attached...
He's referring to the shocks here. If you lift your Jeep, it will require longer shocks to get the maximum flex out of the lift. It's not a bad price for a really good set of shocks, however, cheaper shocks are really only about $100 cheaper. Its a personal preference in my opinion.
The S spline is a conventional spline stub that will yield a safe, effective and usable stroke of 3â€. The X spline is longer than the S spline. The X spline is cut for the full length of the spline stub. This gives a bit more than twice the contact area between the slip yoke and spline stub and a stroke of 4-1/2". This in and of itself will net more than twice the life on these two components.
With the XB configuration, we will use a heavy rubber boot which is banded down with stainless steel banding to seal all of the contaminates out and keep the grease in. The XC configuration uses the same slip yoke & spline stub but instead of using the rubber boot, we drill and tap the slip yoke for a grease fitting and use a dust cap which has convolutions that follow the spline stub for sealing. We consider the XB configuration to be the longest lasting and best value.
Somone correct me if I'm wrong, but this refers to the slip joint on the driveshaft between both ends. When your axle flexes, your driveshaft length varies and this slip is where it happens. The salesman is saying its a little more stable and increases the expected life of the driveshaft with the "X spline". The "XB Configuration" he's referring to is the way its lubricated, the XB has a sealing boot that matches the splines on the slip to keep dirt out and it comes with a grease fitting to keep it lubed. If it were me, I'd go with the X spline in the XB configuration...Maintenance on it will be easier and will help it last a longer.
Just my $.02 ;D
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I have the RE 3.5" with RE monotube (long Travel) and they are great. I would spend the $$, and I agree with Seabee about the shaft XB configuration is the way to go.
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how does the RE monotube compare to skyjacker hydros, bilsteins or others
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Not too sure about the ones you mentioned but I just put new Rancho RS5000's on JD's TJ...The ride is soooo nice now...I haven't had them off road yet though. I would imagine the RE ones are a bit better because they are matched to a lift and larger tires. Not that its a defining factor but the RE ones are also like $10-$20 MORE per shock than the Ranchos...