JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: B52BUFF on May 02, 2012, 12:16:28 PM
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I am going to attempt to install my locker and axels this Saturday at my parents house. The only thing I can think that I may need right now is a press to put on the bearings. I would like to be ready to go for the May run to MaBell. Ultimately this is in preparation for Florida Vacation. If anyone would like to drop by my parents live just up the road from me on Partridge Hollow rd. Any suggestions prior to Saturday would be appreciated. ;D
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I'm tied up Saturday, but when I replaced the bearings on D44 rear axle shafts I did not use any press. I put the shafts in my freezer over night and I put the bearings in a toaster oven for about 3 hours prior to doing the install. They slid together really easy.
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Be shure to have all bearings installed prior to starting the job. Hope you have a dial indicator & carrier shim kit to get the backlash correct. Also be shure to have all the tork,bearing preload & backlash specks handy. You will need a dial tork wrench to measure the total turning force of the pinion & carrier to measure the proper preload of the carrier but need to measure the pinion first W/O the carrier installed then add the specks to the total when checking it with the carrier installed. If you got any more questions I will try to answer as best as I can. I have not done this in 6Yrs so I could be wrong on a few things. As they say. When all else fails. Read the book. ::)
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If I remember correctlly, you have the D35 axle right? and it has C-clips right?
If it's a C-clip axle, you'll need a slide hammer to remove the bearing from the axel housing,
To remove the diff cover, remove all the bolts except the top one, then tap the cover, it should break loose and all the fullid should drain out without going all over the place, don't forget the oil pan to catch the fluid. Make sure you have a few cans of break clean and start spraying down the insides.
You will need a 12 point 1/4" wrench to remove the bolt/pin that hlds the centre pin in place.
Push the shafts inwards to remove the C-clip, they shuld just fall out but you may need a pair of longnose pliers to help.
Pull out the axle shaft, Remove the bearing and seal with a slide hammer
Pack the new bearing with grease and tap into place
Install the new seal
Install the axle shaft
If you don't have C-clips then I just did a bunch of typing for nothing!
and X2 on whatever Bob says!
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You have not typed unnecessarily. I do have c clips. A guy at work is going to loan me a gauge. I also need to pick up shims. I do have a spare car if all doesn't go well but at least I will have them in for wheeling in the future.
I am a bit nervous.
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If you have never done this before and don't have someone else helping you that does then I highly suggest you pay a shop to do this because if it is not set up correctly then many things could fail quickly. I would hate to see you spend all this cash just to do it all over again. You can just slap it together & it will work but it won't last. The D35 is already a weak axel & if not set up correctly will only give it a reason to fail easer. I would help you out but just don't have that kind of time. I just have too many things on my plate at this time & setting up a diff correctly is very time consuming. If you do decide to go through with it then just take your time & follow the book. Im shure there are detailed vidios on line for installing Detroit Lockers. Good luck.
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what locker are you installing in a d35
this one was open and really went kaboom
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/004-1.jpg)
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Thats just the spider gears & they can fail easly in any diff. Looks like when the spider gears broke it spread apart and split the carrier in half. A detroit locker & cromo shafts should not fail like that in a D35. The ring & pinion is the next weak link in the D35 synce a much stronger carrier & cromo shafts have are going to be installed. With 31"s it might last a long time but any larger tire will start to stress the ring & pinion under hard wheeling.
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I am a bit nervous.
Take a deep breath and relax, it is time consuming and checking and shiming and rechecking and shimming... it may seem frustrating but it's just part of the install, understand that going in and it's not so bad. The gauge is for the backlash and you will need some marking compound to get the pattern good like Bill did on his and you will be fine.
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A guy at work who is a mechanic loaned me a backlash gauge. He thought that if I'm using the same ring and not moving the pinion then I may not have to worry about shimming but he wasn't sure. I am going to start it saturday and I have two weeks if I run into trouble. I may see if my brother would mind hosting the meeting next week and then I will have a roomful of experts, but let's see how things go Saturday.
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If this is just a lunchbox you just need to mark the pinion and make sure it goes back together the same way it came out after replacing the spider gears with the lunchbox. I was thinking you were putting in a detroit that replaces the carrier. I've installed mini-spools and lunchbox lockers without having to reset everything.
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I'm tied up Saturday, but when I replaced the bearings on D44 rear axle shafts I did not use any press. I put the shafts in my freezer over night and I put the bearings in a toaster oven for about 3 hours prior to doing the install. They slid together really easy.
this proves you are from michigan ;D
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;D All has gone great so far... :o Until... :( I broke an oil seal while trying to install it into the end of the axle. :'( I have been calling around for the part but even though it is a common part but neither Auto Zone or Advanced Auto carry it. >:( Everybody else closes between noon and 5 pm on Saturdays. If Bumper to Bumper doesn't have it tomorrow then I will have to order it online.
Would anybody have a CR 13990 oil seal they would be willing to sell?
I will post pictures as I have taken several. As I watched the spider gears fall out I realized I was past the point of no return. More to follow.
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;D Bumper to Bumper on Rte 12 across from the Sub Base had two of them. I am back on track.
Roger, thank you for the freezer/oven suggestion! It worked great. Sometime this week I will hopefully finish up this project. :P Today I have to focus on a 9 page paper I have due on Thursday. I have plenty of pictures I will post soon.
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So I pushed the 9 page paper off just a bit and tried to work on the locker yesterday. It looks like I am going to have to adjust the shims on the pinion. I most likely won't get back to the project until next saturday. I have also had trouble with the axle shafts or shaft. The driver side shaft appears not to have been machined properly. The passenger shaft slides right in with little to no fuss. The left one on the other hand seems that it may have slipped through quality control. If you compare them side by side you can see that the left tines are flat and not well defined. We have managed to get it in but not without frustration and personal injury. (smashed fingers) I will be calling G2 about this. So stay tuned for more about this project that I am no longer nervous about. I am frustrated. ???
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How did you make out this weekend? are you going to be ready for Saturday's run?
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I can't get the locker in. It locks up as soon as we tighten the bolts. We pulled out the pinion and didn't find but one shim. Changed the seals and bearings there also. Have been talking to the guy at work and it seems I have done it all wrong. I NEED HELP!!!!!! My brother and I are at the end of our rope.
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How did you make out? Do you have it back together yet???
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So here is the deal. The locker is in after a long argument with 4wd.com. I ended up taking the TJ to Bob's Auto in Groton. It was through them that I found out that it didn't fit. When I ordered the locker/axle kit I was assured that it would work with my Dana 35 3.07 ring and pinion. My brother and I tried for weeks to figure out what we were doing wrong. Turns out that the locker was made for a 3.54 and up. So I spent another $600 in parts (3.73 R/P for the rear and 3.73 R/P plus carrier for the front) to get it on the road. On top of that it cost a pretty penny to have Bob's Auto do the work. Being that they had to take everything out and piece it back together. I learned plenty. I changed all the seals and bearings. I learned I get a bit claustrophobic under my Jeep even with jack stands in place. I learned that if I need a specialty tool to work on the TJ, I can go to either Autozone or Advanced Auto and they will check them out to me for no charge. (Slide Hammer with all the attachments and a Bearing Installation Tool) My next project between now and Florida Vacation is to put on the new lower control arms. When the Jeep was on the lift at Bobs i saw just how mangled they were. So now she is back on the road. It is interesting driving a vehicle with an auto locker. It has taken a little getting use to.
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Glad to hear its all back together. You must have noticed a big difference going from 3.07s to 3.73s. Its going to krawl much better now. I no how you feel about spending so much cash. I was sick to my stomic after ordering the lift, wheels, tires & rear bumper for my jeep. Wish it only cost $600 but went just a tad over that ::). Its all going on the 30th of this month. Can't wait ;D. See you at Florida Vacation.
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It drives a whole lot different than before. If I were do it all over again I would opt for air or electric lockers. It is surprising when it decides to kick in. Sometimes it even a bit unnerving with a loud pop as the gears in the locker mesh together.
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You'll get used to it Chuck. I had a Detroit in my TJ and it takes a little bit of getting used to. You'll learn when to accelerate out of a corner, etc as you drive it more and before you know it you'll won't even think about it being back there anymore.
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You'll get used to it Chuck. I had a Detroit in my TJ and it takes a little bit of getting used to. You'll learn when to accelerate out of a corner, etc as you drive it more and before you know it you'll won't even think about it being back there anymore.
x2... I am running Aussie's front and rear. Even though I can disengage the front one by being in 2wd, the rear one did take some getting used to. I found that one I got used to it on dry roads I don't even know it is back there. When the road is wet or is slick from snow, it can get a little scary.