JT4x4
The Mud Pit => General => Topic started by: gearhead1985B on April 08, 2010, 11:39:22 PM
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i did this on asphault
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/004-1.jpg)
this has been a great week, starter died idler pully ate itself and destroyed my carrier life is good i need a beer
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That's not pretty at all. Hopefully you don't have to go anywhere tonight.
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That's not pretty at all. Hopefully you don't have to go anywhere tonight.
no but i had plans to go wheeling this weekend but them are out
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Ouch! That looks just like what my Turdy five did!
good luck!
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well i fianaly got all my parts found to get my jeep running and some upgrads i am getting front and rear 88 waggy dana 44's the front springs which gives me a 1" strech in the wheel base and the wheels all for $500 and i will hope fully get it installed in two weeks and fianaly get my jeep back
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well Since i need to do custom drive Shafts for the Rear i am going to install my dana 300 So i just bought a an Adaptor So it will go between my ax 15 and the d300 and a new yoke for the tale Shaft So i can Run a cut down xj front ds and now i am looking for brake lines that will work between FSJ axles and yj fitting that is the Right length. and Since i am doing the d300 install i will go ahead and flip it and make my custom cable Shifters and install a flat Skid and a 1.25" bl and an electric fan for good meAsure i just love how one Simple Problem turns into a major over haul and a lot of money gets Spent on beer and a lot of work and busted knuckles goes into one hell of a hobby
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well the parts are rolling in
so far i got my
1" body lift
extended brake lines (and they are red)
brown dog 1" mml
spring perches front and rear
made some shock tabs for the rear
electric fan
2 waggy front springs
and front and rear waggy dana 44's
still on order
bilstein 1550 shocks (getting overnighted as soon as i get the measurements)
new manual hubs
the new daystar bump stops
transfer case(dana 300) to tranny(ax15) adaptor
and 2 stock springs made into a bastard pack to level out the front
custom bomerang shackles to help with the leveling
new wheels with a 3" bs
hiems for the stearing as soon as i get a hold of a chevy d44 flat top passenger side knuckle
a set of custom cv drive shafts
and all the beer required for the install
hopfully i can have all the parts in and i might be able to afford an aussie for the rear ;D
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ok is stead of usind a chevy flat top and geting it machined i found this
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/...pid=883&cid=13
a complete knuckle ans ball joints and steering set up its orderd
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the rear axle is in soa
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/011.jpg)
my jeep looks retarted soa on stock springs in the rear on 27" tires and my old lift in the front with 33's and it sits level so i am working on the front tomorrow i am seeing how much stretch i can get before i run into steering issues i am looking for 3" front stretch we will see how it goes
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Wow your really goin nuts bro, when do find out if you can come back to rotten groton?
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3" front stretch might be tough. The steering already sits pretty close to the front pumpkin. You might be able to do it if you are going OTK with your steering.
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Wow your really goin nuts bro, when do find out if you can come back to rotten groton?
have not herd yet so i will not find out until aug
3" front stretch might be tough. The steering already sits pretty close to the front pumpkin. You might be able to do it if you are going OTK with your steering.
i am getting 2" from the waggy springs and another inch from the perches i looked at it today it will be close the waggy axle is stock OTK and i am changing that to to a high steer with the knuckle form bj's offroad it is actually cheaper than setting up the the flat top chevy knuckles i have been looking and and with the tie rod i am making out of 1.5" dom and hiems i will have no issues or concerns about damaging my tie rod so i really don't need high steer unless i wanted to go behind the axle with my steering so with all that i am going to start grinding in my front driver side perch tomorrow and if i need ti i will move the steering box forward 1 or 2 inches
i am shooting for a 99" wb with no comp cut and a low cog running 38's so i am looking for flat thin leaf packs stock packs suck so as soon as i can pony up the cash for the gen right gas tank or make my own custom fuel cell i will re work the rear and stretch it with another set of waggy front springs
the other things i have concidered doing is frenching the spring hangers (with this i loose the inch of lift i got from the boddy lift and i am most likly going to relocate my front shackle to the front frame horn and incorperate a recovery point/ front bumper into it some how but all that will com in a few days (i need to cinvince the welder it is worth it i just split 40' of square tube and bumper making materal with him so i might be easy)
the goals for this week are front perches installed dana 300 install, body lift, mml, tranny crossmember and a flat skid hopfully the dana 300 is happening wednesday pending the arrival of the adaptor from novak here is a pic of how it sits right now
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/012.jpg)
this is the d44 in the rear soa on a stock 28" tire and my old lift on 33'' tire in the front
on another note i want 5- 15x10 turbine wheels does any one know where i can find some
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i got the body lift installed to day only brokr one bolt the one right behind the drivers front wheel tomorrow i will get the tires mounted in the rear and motor mounts
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got the motor mounts in
before
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/015-1.jpg)
after
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/016.jpg)
if your motor mounts are shot get the brown dog motor mounts my jeep vibrates less and shifts smoother
today in the rain i just installed the grand wagoneer front springs sua on the d30 gave the front a 2" front strech so with modified perches a 3" strech will not be a problem
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/021.jpg)
thai is a 2" front strech and a 1" bl added
the front 44 is not preped yet i still need to weld on perches so i am going to start tuesday hopefully this week end i will be done with the axle swap
now i need some 84-88 toyota pick up rear springs for a 4" rear strech and then a custom gas tank a buddy told me about a welding shop that will weld me up what i want out of aluminum so i am talking to them monday or tuesday
also yesterday i started the flipping of my d300 and found i bad beering so the rebuld kit was ordered and i am going to have that going in at the same time
and a safety note a stock front yj ds will not suport a 2" wb strech and about 2.5" of lift don't ask i need custom drive shafts
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well front is done i can clear 40's with 5" of up travel i am on the process now trying to lower my heep at least 2" here are a few pics the cj is my buddys cj8 with a 4" spring and 3" body on 35's
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/005-1.jpg)
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/006-1.jpg)
this thing is a pita to get into my leg don't go that high and i got pulled over just so the cop could look at my lift and suspension i am too tall it looks like i will be frenching the spring hangers
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follow the illinois rules. soldiers and sailors act. as long as you are registered there. right?
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well front is done i can clear 40's with 5" of up travel i am on the process now trying to lower my heep at least 2" here are a few pics the cj is my buddys cj8 with a 4" spring and 3" body on 35's
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/005-1.jpg)
this thing is a pita to get into my leg don't go that high and i got pulled over just so the cop could look at my lift and suspension i am too tall it looks like i will be frenching the spring hangers
I picked up a D44 waggy front axle and was thinking about doing a SOA. What did you use for the front spring perch? how did you keep your geometry correct?
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I picked up a D44 waggy front axle and was thinking about doing a SOA. What did you use for the front spring perch? how did you keep your geometry correct?
what year waggy d44 80-86 are a vaccume diconect axle
for my geometry i ground into the housing some and i have no problems yet but i don't have a front ds in so idk if i will have ds vibs but to weld it in i left the stock perches intact leveled the axle and ground the perches to fit setting the passenger side first and then measured off the ground for a hieght and then ground the driver side so it was level and the same hight as the passenger side and then welded it up does that make since
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follow the illinois rules. soldiers and sailors act. as long as you are registered there. right?
yeah i am no where close to leagle for that but what the 5.0 don't know don't hurt them
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what year waggy d44 80-86 are a vaccume diconect axle
Ok, Makes sense, i just wondered if you had found a prefit kit? The axle is out of an 84 Grand Waggy no disconnect.
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Ok, Makes sense, i just wondered if you had found a prefit kit? The axle is out of an 84 Grand Waggy no disconnect.
really the disconect for the waggy's are in the diff (it has a funny looking diff cover same shape as the d44 but has a weird bulge in it) not on the axle like the yj
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/009-2.jpg)
here is what i ground and how i mounted it i found the pic i thought i took
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as it sits right now 99" base and way to darn tall so step 2 of the lifting process lower the front end with smaller shackles and redrill the spring mounts the rear is about right as soon as i can figure out a way to get the shackel off the rear cross member any idears i are stumped i think boom shackles will still hit the frame i am going to add another leaf tomorrow and try some booms the toyota leaves are real soft and maybe notch the crossmember a little
get and mount the 35's sell the 33's find used 38's tsl/ltb/booger and regear to 4.88 or steaper with a locker in the front and cutting breaks in the rear call it good till i blow another axle to shreads then on to custom 609's
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/004-2-1.jpg)
and i trying to figure out how to trim the rear so that i will not have to comp cut a still get full flex
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yesterday i got my rear finders trimmed and here is how it turned out
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/008-2.jpg)
here is a mid way throught pic i took and made a card board template a half inch or so bigger than what i wanted to cut and transferd that on to the body then cut the template out and drew a line a half inch above where i cut and bent up to that line with pliers and a hammer
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/009-2.jpg)
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really the disconect for the waggy's are in the diff (it has a funny looking diff cover same shape as the d44 but has a weird bulge in it) not on the axle like the yj
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/009-2.jpg)
here is what i ground and how i mounted it i found the pic i thought i took
Is this bump you are talking about on the diff its self or on the cover? How does it engage?
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really the disconect for the waggy's are in the diff (it has a funny looking diff cover same shape as the d44 but has a weird bulge in it) not on the axle like the yj
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/my%20yj%20soa/009-2.jpg)
here is what i ground and how i mounted it i found the pic i thought i took
Is this bump you are talking about on the diff its self or on the cover? How does it engage?
no that is how much i ground down to make the perch fit from what i under stand there is a bulge in the diff cover with 2 vaccume ports on it and the vaccume disconect is in side the diff i seen one in a jy and left it cause i did not know what it was i would check ifsj.org for all kinds of info on that axle
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Ok, mine is not a disco.
Now I just have to save up some money to get it regeared and locked! I'm thinking a eaton electric locker and I'm torn between 4.56 & 4.88 gears. running 33's now plan on 35 - 36's in the future.
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my vote is 4.88 its not like ur driving it everyday so u might as well go closer to the overkill side.
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5.13s :)
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Ok, mine is not a disco.
Now I just have to save up some money to get it regeared and locked! I'm thinking a eaton electric locker and I'm torn between 4.56 & 4.88 gears. running 33's now plan on 35 - 36's in the future.
yes i am thinking alot about what gears i just ordered 35's aka the street tires and am looking for a set of 38" bias stickies i really want the maxxis cc's or the pit bull rockers and i am going to drag the 38's around on a trailer till i go to wheel or light wheeling run the 35's but since this is still my planned dd i am leaning toward 4.88 but i want 5.13 for off road but then i have to look at what i will be doing with the jeep
so my thoughts are if i run 5.13 my highway rpms on 35's will be about 2500 rpm @ 65 with the ax15 (i looked at a chart that was for 1 to 1 and multiplied by .79 the ax15 od gear ratio) which is not bad but my jeep will suck more fuel and my crawl ratio is going to be 51 to 1 at an off idle speed (1000 rpm)in 4low of 2.2 mph and my normal wheeling speed(aka motor red line) of 5.37 mph in first gear on 38" tires
with 4.88's highway rpm on 35's is 2400 crawl ratio 48.97 to 1 off idle speed 2.31 mph on 38's
so the differences are 100 rpm @ 65 and every thing else is about the same the only thing that i am considering is how much fuel i will waste with the difference in gears if i new the standard air to fuel ratio i can calculate out fuel consumption per hour per rotation and make a rough guess looks like more research
the more research is in
OK edit i found that air to fuel ratio's are about 12.5 to 1 up to 13.3 to 1 for the most power for engines powered by octane pump gas is 87% octane so close enough for me
a 4.0 moves 4 liters of air per 1 rotation of the crank an d a liter of air weighs 1.2 g/L so afr= mass(air)/mass(fuel) then with a AFR of 12.5 i get about 2 grams of fuel used per one rotation of the motor
so at highway speeds between the 2 gear ratios i have a difference of a 100 rpm or 200 grams of fuel per minute or about .3 lbs/hr or .043 gallons per hour difference
from what i calculate it really is not much difference between the 2 a little more fuel will be consumed and i get a little better off road performance with 5.13 over the 4.88 i need a butt dyno on both sets of gears to see if it worth it will i really notice the difference between 4.88 and 5.13 on the trail with 38's i know i will see a difference in fuel consumption, acceleration, speed, and noise level so what do i do i guess i could take the money i don't waste on gas using the 4.88 and put it toward the lo-max 4 to 1 low for the d300
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Buy a honda civic
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Buy a honda civic
no geo metro or ford focus or a tow rig
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if i get these gears a thick cut gear that means i don't have to change out the carrier so that will save me a little coin
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/dana-thick-ring-pinion-gear-fits-373dn-case-p-10740.html
has any one has any experance with the thick cut gears what are the differances
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well here is my newest mod as of to day cost me a case of beer and i had to do a brake job but 2hrs work and $20 it was originally going to cost me a $100 to buy it but i sweet talked the guy into letting me rebuild his drums on his 14 bolt and berr instead and i think i got a hell of a deal now all i need to do is french in a reciver hitch and make some supports for the rear crossmember and it is good to go
(http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu131/gearhead1985/002-2.jpg)
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Hey Adam,
How much lift did you get with the stock waggy front springs?
I'm still not sure whether I go with a SOA with the waggy front springs, (will I be too high for 35's) or stay SUA with 4.5" lift springs....
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Hey Adam,
How much lift did you get with the stock waggy front springs?
I'm still not sure whether I go with a SOA with the waggy front springs, (will I be too high for 35's) or stay SUA with 4.5" lift springs....
with 1.25" lift shackles and 7 pack waggy fronts with the bottom 2 leaves removed i have 29" (11 inches over stock) to the bottom of the rocker i am going to reduce the hieght by 2"-3" by reworking all my spring mounts and my fronnt shock mounts with the way i am setup i can run 40's and have 5" of up travle at the tire i am happy how every thing rides nice an smooth but i do need to be lower so i am going to run a 1/2 lift shackle and redo the frame side mounts front waggy springs are suposed to be 1"-2" of lift over stock yj my springs are flat so the lift i am getting is from the soa and the shackles i am looking to only get about 4"-6" of lift max and right now i am about 7"-8" including the 1" body (not going away i need it for the flat skid)
my over all opinion is to go soa (i will never have a sua jeep again) what little i have driven my jeep on the street it is a vast improvement over sua when it is properly setup and the steering linkage is flat you will need to go high steer to accomplish this and have a really good set of shocks you will not have a better ride and a lot more flex than sua
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I just got back from the break in run on a local rutted out road over all i am very impressed with my jeep it handled very well it drove an hour to the trail at 65 tracked perfectly straight and had no death wobble or bump steer i have noticed it is a little top heavy but i will fix thatby lowering the jeep 2" i need to rework the front shock mounts and French the upper mount into the frame and lean the shocks toward the motor Because at full FLex the tires rub the shocks the extra wheel base is awesome i had no problems doing hill climbs i could not do before and my only real problems was my approach angle i will either need to do a shackle reverseal or add more wheel base to improve it both of which add a lot of problems unto them selves most i will most likely do both by adding another set of toyota springs to the front and i need the usual gears and lockers bigger tires and to convert to true high steer
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your jeep seems to change suspension height once a month. It goes up and down. Up to fix one issue, down to fix another. But I gotta hand it to you Adam, your determined, and it sounds like its starting to pay off.