JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: kirksjeep on December 24, 2008, 05:28:47 AM
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I found this site tonight and would like to get some opinions. For $25 including shipping, plus some work, I could flip the tie rod to the top of the the king pin which will "help" keep it away from rocks. With anything there is always a comprimise, but I'm not sure what it would be in this case except I would have $25 less in my pocket.
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
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"weld the lip and you are ready to go."
I'd be leary of this, steel doesn't weld to cast to well.
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So I did some more research last night and here is what I found:
The sleeves are more of a press fit and the welds just are tacks to make sure they don't come out. This set up helps restore almost stock steering geometry and I would have to put the stock pitman arm back on. Some of the guys that installed this, had to either ditch the steering stabilizer because they had no room, or run it at an angle. Some guys that installed it used 4 insters, two for the tie rod ends, one for the drag link to tie rod connection and one for the steering stabilizer to tie rod connection. Other just used two and rotated the ends of the tie rod and didn't have to change out the drag link and stabilizer connections. All the posts of other forums that have installed this have had all positive comments.
My first priority is to get these new axles in, but this might be my next project.
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Pics dude.
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Here is a link to a guy that did the swap with pics and his comments:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=610438&highlight=tie+rod+flip
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seeing it installed doesn't look so bad afterall.
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Hey Kirk, if you do end up ordering these let me know if I can place an order yours.
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Will Do. I will most likely place an order in early January, IF, I every get these axles done. ::) I am headed to Maryland tomorrow and won't be back until Jan 2nd. Hopefully I can finish up the axles project before stand down ends. I did just order some poly tie rod boots since mine are looking a little rough and I figure it will be a good time to change them out when I do the tie rod flip. If enough people are interested, I will contact Goferit and see it we can get a club/bulk discount.
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It says that TJ's require a modification of the sway bar disconnect...I wonder what that is...
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sketchy.
just be very sure.
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I've read several positive write ups on YJ forums. The only caution I have found is to use a scrap piece of steel to test the fit the sleeve with the 3/4" drill bit.
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I am just about finished with flipping my tie rod. I bought 3 inserts a few weeks back and just got around to it. I bought a 3/4" drill bit from Lowes and used a lot of WD-40 as cutting fluid, took my time and drilled out the knuckles. It was a little scary at first!! When I got close to the bottom of the knuckle with the drill bit I left just a sliver of metal, and then used a hammer to make it a press fit. I welded the inserts in, cleaned up the welds and gave them a shot of paint. While I was at it I installed my poly tie rod boots and put a boot on my steering stabilizer. Every thing but the steering stabilizer is back in. To keep the stabilizer at less of an angle I need to fab up a spacer. The tie rod sits 3" taller, which should help keep it off the rocks, and with the drop pitman arm the steering geometry is pretty close to stock by my calculated eye ball. I haven't taken it for a test drive yet so I can't report on bump steer, but in theory it should eliminate all bump steer.
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so thus far, total cost of this little upgrade is.......?
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This is another upgrade I'd like to do to my XJ. A couple guys that I know that are big XJ guys said that anything more than 5" of lift really needs the flip to the top. The drop pitman arm just won't do it and I do have more wander in my steering than I would really like. It's on the list, but quite a ways down.
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sounds like it was actually a good system!
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Cost Break Down: 3 inserts $45 + $4 shipping
Tie Rod Boots+ Steering Stabilizer Boot-FREE ( used the 4wd hardware spend $10 get $10 off back in December)+ $5 shipping
Total: $54
TJ's and I think XJ's only need 2 inserts so it would be a little cheaper. If you buy 2 inserts they are $20 each, but if you buy 3 they are only $15 each. If a couple of guys get together it would only be $30 for a TJ.
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wow. that might jump to the top of my list. if and when i get them, maybe we could hook up for some wrench time. Sounds like you got the process down pact.
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I forgot to add a 3/4" drill bit for $20, but the one I bought looks like it is still in good shape after drilling the three holes. I still need to make a spacer to boost up the steering stabilzer, but I have a few ideas. When I am done I'll post up some pics.
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well. i think im going to be joining the high steer club after this pacheck.
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well. i think im going to be joining the high steer club after this pacheck.
did you check your pa yet?
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Could I do this with my 3 inch lift? How would it effect my geometry? I just picked up the ZJ V8 steering today, and I was thinking about waiting to swap it in, if it would be beneficial to me to do this while I'm at it. What do you think?
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I'm not exactly sure the interferance is on TJ/XJ but it might be worth emailing them to find out. It will help the steering geometry get back closer to stock. With 3" of lift and a tie rod flip you might not even need a pitman arm drop.
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I'm not exactly sure the interferance is on TJ/XJ but it might be worth emailing them to find out. It will help the steering geometry get back closer to stock. With 3" of lift and a tie rod flip you might not even need a pitman arm drop.
Most of what I've read says that you need to use a stock pitman arm with TJ and XJ flips unless you're above 5" of lift, then you can use a longer one if you already have it on. To flip both sides on a XJ or TJ you also have to move your sway bar brackets and track bar bracket on the axle since they will be in the way. I've been doing some reading on this subject and I may just do the flip on the driver's side. It will make the tie rod straight across rather than at the angle it currently is and get it up and out of the way since the passenger side is already higher than the driver's side stock. It also won't interfere with drag link angles by doing it this way.
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x2
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Spike TV Trucks shows tie rod flip on XJ. probably going to do this
http://www.spike.com/full-episode/cheep-cherokee-part/33784
they also show other episodes with 4.0 stroker build, and long arm install
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duece im pretty sure on that episode they are using the rusty's aftermarket kit which is a little different, and i believe that is why they didnt have to push the track bar and sway bar mounts back.
i think im going to go with the jcr 1 ton steering and stay under the knuckle bc with the 1 tons it dosent matter if u hit rocks ull be fine well for the most part.
heres a link.
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
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. Yeah I didn't catch that. JCR setup is nice but pricey, I'll stick with my V8 ZJ steering and carry a stock setup as a spare for now.
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duece im pretty sure on that episode they are using the rusty's aftermarket kit which is a little different, and i believe that is why they didnt have to push the track bar and sway bar mounts back.
i think im going to go with the jcr 1 ton steering and stay under the knuckle bc with the 1 tons it dosent matter if u hit rocks ull be fine well for the most part.
heres a link.
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
I talked to Brian from JCR on the phone the other day to get his opinion on going OTK or staying UTK with my TJ. He said you can do it either way, but the OTK is much better for steering angles and he doesn't know of anybody that even has to use a stabilizer with the OTK set up. I'm thinking JCR myself right now. I should stop in their shop while I'm home this week just to catch up with the guys.
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for my steering on my 1tons(if i ever put them in) i am using somthing like this
http://www.stonecrushersteering.com/index.html
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found these for ppl that dont want to have to drill out the knuckles, what do u guys think they seem to be as strong as 1 tons. i wounder if u will have to move the track bar and sway bar mounts back still?
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-TOTKS&Category_Code=XST
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found these for ppl that dont want to have to drill out the knuckles, what do u guys think they seem to be as strong as 1 tons. i wounder if u will have to move the track bar and sway bar mounts back still?
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-TOTKS&Category_Code=XST
I just read through their detailed instructions and didn't see anything about moving the sway bar mounts or drag link. I wonder if it squeezes under the sway bar links because it sits closer to the knuckle with those ends verses having full tie rods sitting on top?
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if thats the case i would say these would be better to go with over a 1 ton over the knuckle setup, and they cost about the same.