JT4x4
The Mud Pit => Wrenching => Topic started by: Gr33NGoph3R on March 11, 2011, 09:17:13 PM
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just wondering if theres any reason I shouldnt do the transfer case drop for my lift even though I wont be able to actually install the lift untill next weekend I dont intend on going anywhere off road with it so clearance wouldnt be an issue
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Do you ever plan to offroad it at all? If so I wouldn't do it.
Otherwise, dropping the case without lifting it will mess up you driveline angles and cause your drive shaft to potentially bind. You might be able to get away with it on flat ground only, but I honestly would not do it.
If you ever plan to wheel it at all, you'll want to get rid of that drop though. I had one dropped, trust me. My stock transfer case skid is pulled currently. Come see how bent to heck it is and you'll realize why you definatly do not want to do a drop on it. The drop skid has always been the biggest thing holding me back offroad. It sucks when you stop the whole trail because your stuck in a rock garden and can't get traction because of that drop (E4W T4T Run Dec 10). Also sucks when you try to climb a ledge and can't because that skid hangs so low you can crest the top of it. I even got it stuck on a small tree stump once by wedging the stump right between the drop skid and lower shock mount so bad it took 10 minutes to get out of it.
I could go on and on with other stuff. Some of it could probably have been prevented with better driving, but it I know it didn't help having it dropped either. If you never plan to offroad it, you'll be fine. Just something to think about if you ever do.
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K so when I do lift it just skip the skid drop to avoid the extra headache got it Thx and yes I fully intend on wheeling lol
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Well, its not really that simple. To keep the driveline angles correct and avoid driveshaft bind, you'll need to get a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for your NP231 transfer case and a CV drive shaft. This will let you lift your Jeep and not drop the case while still keeping it from vibrating really bad and binding the drive shaft during suspension flex.
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How much lift?
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3" so improbably looking at another grand in parts? roughly
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3" would make it borderline if you'd need one or not. If it were me I would do it if you can afford it.
For the SYE and CV conversion you'll need the following parts:
Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit for NP231
CV Drive Shaft
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms to set the pinion angle
Adjustable rear track bar with a hemi joint on the axle side to avoid binding due to the pinion being turned up
Other then that you'll need all the other lift parts you were looking to get. What kit you looking at getting?
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3" would make it borderline if you'd need one or not. If it were me I would do it if you can afford it.
For the SYE and CV conversion you'll need the following parts:
Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit for NP231
CV Drive Shaft
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms to set the pinion angle
Adjustable rear track bar with a hemi joint on the axle side to avoid binding due to the pinion being turned up
Other then that you'll need all the other lift parts you were looking to get. What kit you looking at getting?
ok just to make sure my mind is officially in the right place I want to get a 4" skyjacker full suspension lift this costs only a little more than the 3" i was looking at and is much better if i get that installed and do the drop my issue is still getting hung up on obstacles but if I do it anyway and get the other parts you've mentioned over time I can get rid of that drop once I have all of them anyway it would just be easyer for me this way so I dont have to drop an extra grand right now but get it where I have the money over time
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Synce it's a Rubicon it already has the slip yoke in the drive shaft & a shortened tail shaft housing on the T case so you should be ok with a 3in lift. Also you have the NP241 T case. Worst case you might need to replace your rear drive shaft with a slightly longer one.
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K that makes things a little cheaper thx
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Synce it's a Rubicon it already has the slip yoke in the drive shaft & a shortened tail shaft housing on the T case so you should be ok with a 3in lift. Also you have the NP241 T case. Worst case you might need to replace your rear drive shaft with a slightly longer one.
It's nice to have mopar mechanic around!
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Opps, didn't know he had a rubicon. Missed that part, lol. Good catch Bob.
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Carolina Driveline makes custom built One offs for Rubicons. He's aparantly pretty well known. I wound up beating mine up pretty good and took it to a shop in San Diego. The guy knew instantly who made it. It cost me about 250 - 300 the first time around to buy it. Took about 2-3 days to arrive from when I ordered it.
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ok just to make sure my mind is officially in the right place I want to get a 4" skyjacker full suspension lift this costs only a little more than the 3" i was looking at and is much better if i get that installed and do the drop my issue is still getting hung up on obstacles but if I do it anyway and get the other parts you've mentioned over time I can get rid of that drop once I have all of them anyway it would just be easyer for me this way so I dont have to drop an extra grand right now but get it where I have the money over time
Another thing to consider would be Rock Krawlers 3.5" X Factor Short Arm Suspension System . It will allow for 33's right now and is fully upgradable to a long arm system later if you decide to go that route. This way you dont have any money "lost" if you decide to go bigger later. And once upgraded, you can run either 3.5" or 5.5" springs. I'm running their 5.5" X-Factor on my Rubicon and it's probably one of the best suspensions I've ever bought. Plus, their Tech Support is phenominal and it has an "Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty"
3.5" X Factor Short Arm Suspension System
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43226 (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43226)
X Factor Plus Long Arm Upgrade System
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43242 (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43242)
Just food for thought. It's pretty comparably priced and having owned both brands, IMO, a significantly better product than Skyjacker. If this isn't something you're doing in the immediate future, I'll be back in May and you're more than welcome to come out on a trail with me and see how it does before you purchase one way or the other.
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yo noob, chill out with the harsh words and foul language like skyjacker. fabtech and procomp and super lift. Eewwwey. Those are ugly words too. I have to say, i'm with runningtrails on this one, and then some. You should seriously consider Rock Krawler, Clayton, TNT customs, and (if they ever re=open thier shop) Rubicon express, and maybe even Teraflex. I know, i priced them all myself as well, and your new to the game, so i understand. Oooh, bright shiny red coil springs. Dont buy based on the fact that they post there crap in every magazine on the shelf. You wont find any mallcrawler adds in any mag for clayton, rock krawler or tnt; Rubicon Express does advertise, but they deserve to. You may spend less at first, but you will regret it in he long run. The 5 GOOD brands that i called out, will have an unmatched amount of quality that the other run of the mill brands could not even come close to. Pluss, if and when, you are unsatisfied with or you break something (you eventully will) these "Jeep Only" gurus are much more able to and willing to help and taylor orders to you needs. Save your self the time and money and headache by doing it right with quality parts the first time. That includes Shocks as well. I recommend nothing less than Bilstien's. Personally i would go with simple FOX 2.0 SHOX. there a little pricey, but they are totally rebuildable, and will probably outlast the tranny. ;D . Oh and if you mention Rough Country, I will fly back to providence, drive to Groton. and burn you Rubi to the ground myself. Dont mean to sound a little blunt, but i feel like i caught you tip-toeing towards alot of headaches. You have a Rubi, wheel it like hell, but with good parts. ok newbie? ok. Just my $.02 :P
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just highline it and run 35's and call it a day
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yo noob, chill out with the harsh words and foul language like skyjacker. fabtech and procomp and super lift. Eewwwey. Those are ugly words too. I have to say, i'm with runningtrails on this one, and then some. You should seriously consider Rock Krawler, Clayton, TNT customs, and (if they ever re=open thier shop) Rubicon express, and maybe even Teraflex. I know, i priced them all myself as well, and your new to the game, so i understand. Oooh, bright shiny red coil springs. Dont buy based on the fact that they post there crap in every magazine on the shelf. You wont find any mallcrawler adds in any mag for clayton, rock krawler or tnt; Rubicon Express does advertise, but they deserve to. You may spend less at first, but you will regret it in he long run. The 5 GOOD brands that i called out, will have an unmatched amount of quality that the other run of the mill brands could not even come close to. Pluss, if and when, you are unsatisfied with or you break something (you eventully will) these "Jeep Only" gurus are much more able to and willing to help and taylor orders to you needs. Save your self the time and money and headache by doing it right with quality parts the first time. That includes Shocks as well. I recommend nothing less than Bilstien's. Personally i would go with simple FOX 2.0 SHOX. there a little pricey, but they are totally rebuildable, and will probably outlast the tranny. ;D . Oh and if you mention Rough Country, I will fly back to providence, drive to Groton. and burn you Rubi to the ground myself. Dont mean to sound a little blunt, but i feel like i caught you tip-toeing towards alot of headaches. You have a Rubi, wheel it like hell, but with good parts. ok newbie? ok. Just my $.02 :P
Best $.02 ever. lol.
just highline it and run 35's and call it a day
"Expensive" for a TJ. $600 + paint. At 5.5" w/ flat fenders, I run 35s and rub the inner well at full flex.
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yo noob, chill out with the harsh words and foul language like skyjacker. fabtech and procomp and super lift. Eewwwey. Those are ugly words too. I have to say, i'm with runningtrails on this one, and then some. You should seriously consider Rock Krawler, Clayton, TNT customs, and (if they ever re=open thier shop) Rubicon express, and maybe even Teraflex. I know, i priced them all myself as well, and your new to the game, so i understand. Oooh, bright shiny red coil springs. Dont buy based on the fact that they post there crap in every magazine on the shelf. You wont find any mallcrawler adds in any mag for clayton, rock krawler or tnt; Rubicon Express does advertise, but they deserve to. You may spend less at first, but you will regret it in he long run. The 5 GOOD brands that i called out, will have an unmatched amount of quality that the other run of the mill brands could not even come close to. Pluss, if and when, you are unsatisfied with or you break something (you eventully will) these "Jeep Only" gurus are much more able to and willing to help and taylor orders to you needs. Save your self the time and money and headache by doing it right with quality parts the first time. That includes Shocks as well. I recommend nothing less than Bilstien's. Personally i would go with simple FOX 2.0 SHOX. there a little pricey, but they are totally rebuildable, and will probably outlast the tranny. ;D . Oh and if you mention
Rough Country, I will fly back to providence, drive to Groton. and burn you Rubi to the ground myself. Dont mean to sound a little blunt, but i feel like i caught you tip-toeing towards alot of headaches. You have a Rubi, wheel it like hell, but with good parts. ok newbie? ok. Just my $.02 :P
Best $.02 ever. lol.
just highline it and run 35's and call it a day
"Expensive" for a TJ. $600 + paint. At 5.5" w/ flat fenders, I run 35s and rub the inner well at full flex.
lol if I wasnt in the military and didnt know what just happened id probably be offended but quite enjoyed it instead thx for the advice all
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No problem kid. Here to make you cry, always when you need it the least. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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No highlining is not expensive a sawsall in only like $50 bucks for a cheap one and you can use stock fenders
most of the highline fenders out there use stock inner fenders and there is a write up on how to do all over the net and it goes somthing like move the front fenders up a bolt hole and trim 3" off the hood remount latches
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spend the money now. Buy a welder, plasma cutter (not required, but always a bonus!!), Bender, and notcher. Make it all yourself. Your always so much more proud of the work you do yourself!!
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so coming from a guy that has all this stuff if ur only going to build one jeep just buy pre built stuff that will bolt on.
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Yes, yes, of course. But, Flex, as you also know, a man can never have to many tools. He probably lives in the barracks anyways, so he wouldn't be able to have that shtuff anyways. Just drop it off at the Clayton Offroad Shop, and tell them to have a ball. It'll cost you an arm AND both legs, but you will be more than happy with the results. ;D ;D ;D
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Yes, yes, of course. But, Flex, as you also know, a man can never have to many tools. He probably lives in the barracks anyways, so he wouldn't be able to have that shtuff anyways. Just drop it off at the Clayton Offroad Shop, and tell them to have a ball. It'll cost you an arm AND both legs, but you will be more than happy with the results. ;D ;D ;D
Actually I do have a garage and will have these things one day just not yet im going the bolt on route
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Yes, yes, of course. But, Flex, as you also know, a man can never have to many tools. He probably lives in the barracks anyways, so he wouldn't be able to have that shtuff anyways. Just drop it off at the Clayton Offroad Shop, and tell them to have a ball. It'll cost you an arm AND both legs, but you will be more than happy with the results. ;D ;D ;D
Actually I do have a garage and will have these things one day just not yet im going the bolt on route
Gen Right Tube Fenders! WOOT! ;D
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Word on the tube fenders, but, gotta trash talk 'em a little bit, as they are the straight knock-offs of first generation Poison Spyder customs Tube fenders, and their body armor, and their stingers, and their rocker knockers, and their tire carrier stinger, and so on so forth. the do make some cool shit though. Some of their original design gear is pretty gnarly. 8)
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Gen Right Tube Fenders! WOOT! ;D
no them suck i have installed genrites and made some diy's and installed tnt's highlines
the tnt's are worth the money cause you don't have to cut up the stock fenders and the diy's we got were a pita in genral
No highlining is not expensive a sawsall in only like $50 bucks for a cheap one and you can use stock fenders
most of the highline fenders out there use stock inner fenders and there is a write up on how to do all over the net and it goes somthing like move the front fenders up a bolt hole and trim 3" off the hood remount latches
here is the best write up for a tj highline
http://www.higherground4x4.com/Tech/Highline/HigherGround4x4_Highline_Instructional.pdf
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Word on the tube fenders, but, gotta trash talk 'em a little bit, as they are the straight knock-offs of first generation Poison Spyder customs Tube fenders, and their body armor, and their stingers, and their rocker knockers, and their tire carrier stinger, and so on so forth. the do make some cool shit though. Some of their original design gear is pretty gnarly. 8)
I agree.. They are knock offs. But they are solid. And so far, everything has lined up wonderfully and looks great. I originally looked for Poison Spyder, but when I did my build, 4wd.com didnt have that brand anymore. Gen-Right looked exactly the same so it was a no brainer really..
Gen Right Tube Fenders! WOOT! ;D
no them suck i have installed genrites and made some diy's and installed tnt's highlines
the tnt's are worth the money cause you don't have to cut up the stock fenders and the diy's we got were a pita in genral
No highlining is not expensive a sawsall in only like $50 bucks for a cheap one and you can use stock fenders
most of the highline fenders out there use stock inner fenders and there is a write up on how to do all over the net and it goes somthing like move the front fenders up a bolt hole and trim 3" off the hood remount latches
here is the best write up for a tj highline
http://www.higherground4x4.com/Tech/Highline/HigherGround4x4_Highline_Instructional.pdf
Instead of saying that something sucks, maybe that you dont like them would be better. as much as they may suck to you, they are B.A. to me. And for those of you who aren't familiar with my builds, You get what you pay for. I've never been a believer on skimping out on a product just to save a few bucks. Sure, I can hack up my stock fenders to make a highline kit out of it. and at the end, i will have a dressed up pair of hacked up fenders that offer little if any protection against anything. Just saying, if you bash your hacked stock fenders on a tree/rock, stand by for some body work. Everyone has their own opinions of products. A product doesn't suck because a person doesnt like it. (unless it's skyjacker and nobody likes it. ;)) Since we are on an open forum, constructive arguments against a product would be better than saying "They suck" and actually encouraged. That's what makes product reviews on forums like these such a wonderful thing. It's ok to not like a product. But if you're gonna say so, please support your argument so that the people who are looking for information on a product can see both sides of it fairly. Not "They suck" "no they dont" "yes they do" etc. I understand that you have to cut your stock fenders. But also like gearhead, having done it, the 1 day of moderate trouble with it was worth everything I've gained from having them on, from the clearance to the protection, the styling and so on. And gearhead, this isn't a personal attack.. Just a pet peeve of mine on forums. I hate when people attack what you say without providing a logical basis for why they are saying it.
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ORDER IN THE COURT, ORDER IN THE COURT(while pounding gavel)!!! >:( bump...either way, look for a kit that you can upgrade (bigger springs) in the future, if you do, you wont regret it!! ;)
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i have a teraflex LCG 4" kit with no SYE kit installed and can fully flex out and not have any troubles with it. this is my DD and i can safely drive at 70=75 if need be. just saying.
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what Ive ended up with is kindof a bastardized kit that I think will work well for me at least until I decide I want something bigger and better bought brake lines springs and swaybar connects and then a used 4" kit that basically contains everything else Id need after that its Armour and protection already have rock sliders but I need at least some basic skids to get started and then Ill be ready to go
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sweet man good start
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Nice start. Good luck with it!
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pics!
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It'll be a bit longer ill post pics when I do the Install
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What brand junk is going on your rig?
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the kind that you told me you'd burn my rig if they went in there lol
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And Fire will rain Down from the Heavens!!!! Thrown forth by The Mighty Jeep Gods!!!!! :o
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And Fire will rain Down from the Heavens!!!! Thrown forth by The Mighty Jeep Gods!!!!! :o
Not gonna lie.. That's slightly intimidating
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Lift is in still needs a few more things doing a pitman arm swap with bill and itll be pretty much done
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Wow, that was quick!
PS; don't distract Bill too much, he needs to get back to his build after taking a month off!! lol
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He needs my stock pitman so were just swapping them as long as my drag link plays nice and let's go it should be quick
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He needs my stock pitman so were just swapping them as long as my drag link plays nice and let's go it should be quick
The last stock pitman arm I removed broke 3 pitman arm pullers before it came off, and it took a day and a half of soaking in PB Blaster. That was on a 2005 TJ so it wasn't some old YJ. I have pulled about 5 or 6 of them and I have had about a 50/50 shot of them being "Easy." Good Luck.
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Everything else pulled pretty well hopefully the fact that it hasn't been in new england long will help
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He needs my stock pitman so were just swapping them as long as my drag link plays nice and let's go it should be quick
The last stock pitman arm I removed broke 3 pitman arm pullers before it came off, and it took a day and a half of soaking in PB Blaster. That was on a 2005 TJ so it wasn't some old YJ. I have pulled about 5 or 6 of them and I have had about a 50/50 shot of them being "Easy." Good Luck.
Not shure you tryed this but a good trick is when you think your puller is to the point of braking then while the puller is still on at full pressure try hitting the pitman arm with a hammer right at the area where the pitman arm & splines meet. Has worked for me every time. It just needs some shock treatment.
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I'll keep that in mind
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absolutly agree also some pb blaster in the right spot it always a solid idea.
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Always put everything together with Never seize Grease because you never no when your going to have to take it apart again. Thats including EVERY nut & bolt. Just 1 or 2 winters with the calscium & salt there using on the roads & nuts,bolts,splines & anything else that is metal to metal can & WILL rust together causing you to use many choice words trying to take it apart. Ever synce I bought my jeep I will go around the jeep when it's up on the lift & just remove nuts & bolts to smear the crap out of them with Never Seize Grease just so years down the road they won't give me a hassel. Not done yet but gettin there. Only have had the Jeep for 1 1/2 yrs.
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He needs my stock pitman so were just swapping them as long as my drag link plays nice and let's go it should be quick
The last stock pitman arm I removed broke 3 pitman arm pullers before it came off, and it took a day and a half of soaking in PB Blaster. That was on a 2005 TJ so it wasn't some old YJ. I have pulled about 5 or 6 of them and I have had about a 50/50 shot of them being "Easy." Good Luck.
Not shure you tryed this but a good trick is when you think your puller is to the point of braking then while the puller is still on at full pressure try hitting the pitman arm with a hammer right at the area where the pitman arm & splines meet. Has worked for me every time. It just needs some shock treatment.
X3, always worked for me on my old YJ's, even on an old rust bucket waggy, tighten up the pulled and a bunch of wacks from a BFH and it pops off. never taken me more than a few minutes, although I have had to walk away and let my arm rest a couple of times! lol
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Extended brake lines in