The Mud Pit > General

Sarah's issues

<< < (2/2)

calvynandhobbs:
I put a nice dent in my tcase crossmember and scratched some paint off my passenger door when my side mirror got knocked off and was swinging by the wires back and forth on the paint. Other than those two minor things I didn't take any damage at all.

rocket:
oh, and Rich broke his passenger side mirror

Gastank:
So a nice tight trail then... I'm glad you guys had fun.

About Sarah, I tried the thermostat before. Not good. Plus really wouldn't matter at idle. I was thinking Rad cap too. That's what maintains pressure in the system, so lower pressure lower boiling point. Whacha think?

rocket:
I was just thinking.  after 5-7 min, the engine would just be at operating temps, should not overheat by then. 

by overheating, are you refering to boil over or temp reading?  by boil over, it could be the cap (esp if the neeldle never reaches much above 220).  w/ a correctly operating cap (about 15#), the boiling temp is about 250F.

if you are refering to a temp reading, try using a infered temp gage on your upper radiator hose to compare inst panel gage w/ acutal temp (could be a bad sender or gage).  I can't think of a reason that actual temp will be too high after 5-7 min of operation from cold, unless your pump impeller has sheared off and you get a local hot spot at the sender.  if you are starting from hot on a warm day, it will have a tenency to be hotter than normal w/o a thermostat.  It takes time to remove heat from the coolant via the radiator, thats why you have a thermostat!  pulling it will cause high temps on hot days and low temps on cold days.  i did a through write up on how a cooling system works an earlier thread (pulling from my background of thermodynamics and heat tranfer/fluid flow).  Click here for a good write-up

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page