Ford 8.8

[JSchwinn]

Hey guys I'm currently trying to plan out an 8.8 swap into my YJ and am hoping to get some input/direction on what to look for.  My plan is to find an 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10 gears, in addition I will grab a Dana 30 from a 4banger and swap that upfront so I don't have to re-gear.  I guess my question is what 8.8 have you guys used? where did you find it? and will anyone be able to help me out with the build seeing as I do not have a welder and am a complete novice when it comes to axles.  I am in no rush but would like to try and get the swap done before summer.  Will provide beer and pizza when the time come to do the swap.  Thanks in advance.

[Big Chuck]

Hey there, I am in the process of doing the same. I do have a 4.10 dana 30 for the swap and I am hoping to pick up the 8.8 4.10 LSD this weekend, as long he dug it out of the snow by then. Do you have an SYE and CV driveshaft yet? So you need a diff from a 95-01 explorer. They make kits for the "hardware", ruff stuff, M.O.R.E., advance adapters. Rock has done the swap and wheels his rig HARD, and the YJ just takes it running 36 inch tires. I do know there was a guy on a Facebook post selling a 4.10 rear for $300. I'll check  if he still has it.
Chuck

[JSchwinn]

Thanks for the reply chuck, I currently do not have a SYE and plan on doing the SYE along with a new tom woods driveshaft when I do the axle swap.  If he still has the 4.10 for sale I'd definitely be interested.  As far as the Dana 30 did you go HP30?  I would also like to do lockers in the front when I put the new 30 in.

[Big Chuck]

Yes sir, HP30 from a 4 banger. He said that he has a buyer, but Iit is buried under 3.5 foot of snow. If his buyer flakes I will have him let me know. There is also a junk yard in Higginum that sometimes has them, and Tom's in Worcester always has them.
chuck

[JSchwinn]

So I purchased the more conversion kit along with the adapter to go from the 8.8 to the driveshaft ($200 shipped).  I guess in addition to leads on an 8.8 if anyone knows about a Dana HP30 with 4.10 let me know.  Besides the adaptor and new mounts is there naything else I need for the swap?  my ebrake doesn't work so i'll worry about the cable once the new axle is in.  Thanks in advance

[Mr Rock]

Here is my two cents... 

Do not get the LSD, it is great on paved roads but useless on the trails! it's also a different carrier so if you ever want to add an auto locker you will have to change out the carrier, if you plan on going with a selectable locker then you will be changing out the carrier anyway... but an auto locker in the rear is fine!

Installing one in a YJ is pretty easy you will need to cut/grind off the ford leaf spring perch, install an aftermarket one and bolt it on your springs, adjust the pinion angle before tacking welding it on the axle tube then remove it and weld it on for good. As the 8.8 is a flanged yoke, you also need to get a 1310 flanged adapter that will match your drive-shaft u-joints. You also have to weld the tubes to the center diff section as the factory plug welds are weak and you could spin them. make sure you get a disc brake one from a 99 or newer explorer, it is almost the correct width, (1" shorter), no changes to the brake system and it is easy to connect your existing emg brake cables.

Like Chuck said, I wheel mine hard, with 36/13.5/15's and I am still running stock shafts!

Yes any 4 cyl. JY axle will be 4.10 gears, it is a great axle but you should lose the axle disconnect and upgrade to a solid shafts out of an XJ (bigger u-joints) or if you want to drive like me than you need chromoly shafts!

[JSchwinn]

Thanks rock. Going to pickup a locked Dana 30 with 4.10s tomorrow so just need to find an 8.8 now. I'm going to start calling junkyards tomorrow. After I pick one up I'll definitely need some help welding seeing as I don't have a welder. Anyone have a setup to set pinion angles and weld? I will also be doing a SYE and new Tom woods driveshaft

[JSchwinn]

So I think I have sourced both axles,  going to hopefully grab them after work.  Getting the 8.8 from a salvage yard, came out of a running explorer so hopefully won't need anything other then the perches burned on.  Grabbing a Dana 30 with lockers and 4.10s from a guy parting his jeep out.  The plan was to do this slowly but luck would have it I've managed to find both is a few days.... now I just need to make some friends with a welder  hint hint

[Big Chuck]

Do you have a 220 outlet in your garage?

[JSchwinn]

I do not, I figured I'd have to go to someone house, I do have 220 for my dryer but would need a 220 cord to run to the garage

[JSchwinn]

Success!!!! Picked up a clean complete 8.8 ($175) then went to pick up the Dana 30 with 4.10s and a locker ($175) the best part is I was able to pick up a brand new bf mud terrain 33x12.5 and a new black steel rim, TJ fender flares, ss front brake lines, Radiator support, tcase shift boot, prop valve all for $125!!!! Best day ever

[kirksjeep]

Rock and I have a very similar set up, too bad my Jeep has been in storage for a year and a half....

If you haven't ordered the drive shaft yet, I high;y recommend going with a 1330 U-joint on the axle end.  Explorers use a 1330 so you can use a stock Explorer yoke adapter and if you ever break the ears off you can pick one up a junk yard or from a Ford dealer.  If you go with the 1310 adapter and you break it you will have to order it online and they are a lot more expensive.  The 1330 is marginally stronger too.

I broke my 1310 U-joint, broke my adapter and the ears off the end of my drive shaft.  I went to drive shaft shop in Montville, purchased a new end for the drive shaft for a 1330, bought a 1330 U-joint from them, went to the Ford Dealer right there on RT 32 and for ~$100 I was fixed and back on the road.

When I did my 8.8 my biggest problem was shock alignment.  I ended up going with the Tera-Flex bar which tilted the shocks inboard and it flexes very well.  Don't forget to factor a diff cover into the costs because the Ford diff cover is about as thick as aluminum foil.  IMO Solid is the best bang for the buck.

[JSchwinn]

Thanks for the reply Kurk!  I have not ordered the driveshaft but I already purchased the adaptor so I will end up running the jeep driveshaft.  The plan is to do a SYE the same time as I install the 8.8, I plan on getting the SYE and new driveshaft together from tom woods.  As far as all the alignment issues I'm really hoping to get some help with this and would like to take measurements off of some1 that has already built the 8.8 and I know I will reply heavily on the group to help me out.  Also I already purchased SOLID diff covers for the front and rear ($150 shipped)

[JSchwinn]

Alright need some advice... technically there is zero rush to get the axles installed seeing as my current setup works fine.  I have an issue where I tend to rush things and I really don't want to do that with this build seeing as it will be in the jeep for as long as I own it. So below is my plan, let me know if there is anything I should add to the list, I don't mind spending money on good parts... my wallet isn't a bottomless pit but I do have money set aside for this jeep.

Ford 8.8 out of a '98 explorer (not sure if it's LSD or not yet, has 4.10s)
MOORE hardware (purchased)
Splicer adaptor (purchased
CV Driveshaft from Tom Woods Driveshaft, with this I plan on doing a SYE
New brake pads, lines ect
POR 15?

Now stuff I'm not sure about:
Should I just replace the rotors/calipers? they seem to be in good shape but for $200 is it worth just getting new
I do not plan on touching any internals other than changing fluid and adding a SOLID dif cover.  Should I be changing anything?
Finally should I just wait till summer when it's warmer out to do this or struggle in the cold?  I do have a garage but its a little crowded with the jeep and misc parts and no heat  

Any help is appreciated!!!! thanks!

On another note I need a bigger garage.....

[calvynandhobbs]

Since you're not in a hurry I'd wait for the actually install until it's a little warmer. You can start prepping by cutting off spring perches, sanding/painting the axles if you want to, adding the diff covers, putting on the flange adapter, etc. If you decide to get new brake parts you can go ahead and do the brakes ahead of time also. It will save you all the little stuff at the end.

I just got my axles in last Saturday and now it's time for plumbing the brakes, tightening everything up and remembering to tighten everything as I go since we stuck everything in loose for now just to put it on wheels.