So based on my list of "To Do" items above, this was my last one. I will post this up incase anyone in the future wants to look up this topic. I followed most of the "How to" from the link in the first post with the following changes:
1. The used TJ brake booster/master cylinder combo didn't come with any of the nuts to bolt it to the firewall or to bolt them together. A quick trip to Home Depot with the brake booster in hand and I was set.
2. I used a 2" grade 8 bolt for the adjustment part. I cut the head of the bolt off and used a grinding wheel to make a vertical notch about 3/8" deep. I slid the end of the brake booster rod (previosly cut off) into the notch and made it so it was a tight fit (i.e took some light taps with the hammer to get it in.). When the welding was done it gave more area to weld and came out looking a lot cleaner.
3. The adjustement portion of the install was not very well explained. In short, I got it close and noticed the brake lights were on, so I adjusted the rod lenth until the brake lights went out. I also just used a standard nut, not a nyloc nut since I can't see how it come come loose, and to make adjustments with the assembly installed is hard enough with the tight space under the dash.
4. I re-used the YJ brake lines from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder. I pulled them off, cut the ends off that go to the master cylinder and installed the TJ fittings. I have a double flare tool, but these lines needed the ends to be convex instead of concave. I did a double flare and then put the fitting in the vice and gently used a body hammer to bend the lip and make the right shape. I then used a file to smooth any rough areas and it came out looking ok. I re-used the YJ proportioning valve so I didn't have to take apart more brake lines. With a little flexing of the lines it all worked out.
The result: WOW!!!! The first trip around the block I locked up all four tires on accident since I wasn't used to the power. A big difference, that I should have done a long time ago.
