The Mud Pit > Wrenching
1982 CJ7
Mr Rock:
It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.
gearhead1985B:
--- Quote from: Mr Rock on September 12, 2011, 03:53:19 AM ---It puts the shackles on the rear of the spring so the hard mount is in front which really helps the jeep to track better. All that leaning you see now causes a lot of wandering. It also.gives you a much improved approach angle. There are a bunch of kits out there, some use a cross member to tie the two front mounts together, I would think those would be a good choice for a CJ as they would stiffen the front frame.
--- End quote ---
there is alot more to it then just relocating the mounts to the rear of the spring ds will need to be a longer slip and the shock mounts will need to possibly reworked and other things that i can't think of right now so
some of the cons it will increase brake dive dramatically and you will have to relocate the spring perches to set the correct caster
Mr Rock:
Adam is correct, I'm planning a SOA so some of that I tend to take for granted. I'm planning to move the front mount out an inch which should allow me to run my current DS.
reptile610:
hm... we'll see. i plan on doing a SOA and a 1" body lift and running 35's. btw i got the jeep to move on it's own power the other day ;D transfer case wasn't fully engaged. i also checked the fluid of the trans and transfer case. they're both full but they were brown. i know they're like gear dope but is it supposed to be light brown? found a pin that held the clutch pedal in so thats fixed too. i guess next is brakes.
skibum:
Actually the fluids should be a honey color so by the color your saying it sounds like water is mixed in with the fluid or it is just really old..(not good). I would recomend changing all fluids first but before waisting your cash on new fluids you should put it up on some good jack stands(recomend doing this with no wheels on so to be safe & put all lug nuts on to keep rotors & drums from flopping around) & run it through the gears in 4 wheel drive to make shure there are no strange noises from any bearings(t case,trans,f&r diffs) because no sence in waisting good expensive fluid on something that is going to need a rebuild. When draining any fluid it is a good idea to use a clean container so you can inspect the old fluid for internal wear. Fluid will have a mitallic sparkel if there is bearing wear(not good). Find a strong clean magnet & run it through the fluid & see if it picks up alot of metal debris. Even a small amount is not good but then again I can only imagin the amount of metal floating around in Rocks AX15 & that thing is still going. That shows how much abuse a manual trans can take before it finally quits(or will it quit)
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version