The Mud Pit > Wrenching
Bill's 1 Ton TJ Build
Mr Rock:
sent you a PM
Bill3753:
Its a sad day when you have to go more then a whole page back to bump your own build thread... :'(
Anyways, you guys might not believe it but today I made good progress on my build!
So, without further adieu my update. Today, I was able to pull the driver side front fender. This gave me the room I needed to drill out the nylon steering shaft retainer to allow the steering shaft to collapse shorter. This is needed to make way for the new larger steering box as seen here:
After that, I installed the new longer and flat pitman arm.
Next up was starting in on the tie rod.
From there I built the drag link and cycled the steering. I am happy now. Full lock to lock turning on a HP60. ;D
Here is an idea of what the finished product will look like.
However, the day did have a few problems I thought I was going to be able to avoid.
First, the longer flat pitman arm I need to get full lock to lock turning hits the lower radiator connection. I was hoping with my body lift it would clear, but as you can see it does not.
To fix this, I am going to raise the radiator slightly, maybe 3/4" or so. That will allow everything to clear.
Next problem is with the tie rod itself, or I guess its actually a problem with the knuckles that effects the tie rod ends. To flip the tie rod to the top of the knuckle, I ordered tapered bushings from Parts Mike. The idea is you drill the knuckle with a 7/8" drill bit, insert the bushing, and tighten the rod end down thereby sandwiching the bushing out to hold it in place. Anyways, when installed and tighened down my rod ends are tight against the top of the knuckle. If I leave it this way, it'll break tie rods ends left and right or worse and break the knuckle. Here is a close up of what I'm talking about.
This is what it should look like installed and torqued:
Notice the difference in the gap from the bottom of the tie rod to the mounting surface. In the first picture there is NO flex in the joint because its bottomed out. In the second, it moves just like it should.
My plan to fix this is to use Chevy 7/8" drag link rod ends, Part number ES2026R and ES2027L. These rod ends use the same thread as the other ones I was using, but have a longer taper on them. They are designed to allow for more flex. If you look close at my drag link, I am already using one of them on the pitman arm end of the link. Anyways, I'm thinking since these have a longer taper there will be enough left once it is tighened down to still allow for movement in the joint.
An additional note: I understand the track bar and drag link angles are slightly off from each other and it is going to stay that way. Yes, there is probably something I could do by putting a bend in the track bar to get them equal, but I don't care that much. I'm not worried about bump steer on this rig. Also, being that I am building it low lift on 1 ton axles, there isn't much room in there to move things around much anyways. It is as close as I could get it to equal without bending the track bar or going to a different style steering set up. I wanted crossover steering, so this is how it will be.
Next up is to fix the tie rod and then mount the hydro assist cylinder (as seen just sitting there in a few of the pictures). After that, I'll run all the fluid lines, install the new power steering pump and cooler, and check it all for leaks.
Flex:
Bill wants to cut a hole is his hood b/c with a motor mount lift his super charger doesn't clear, someone come up with a better idea quick before he does it.
Mr Rock:
What about installing one of those cowl induction hood scopes in the center of your hood. It should give you the room you need but still keep the hood closed up?
Bill3753:
--- Quote from: Mr Rock on January 03, 2012, 06:48:28 PM ---What about installing one of those cowl induction hood scopes in the center of your hood. It should give you the room you need but still keep the hood closed up?
--- End quote ---
I'll post pictures later tonight of exactly what is going on. Problem with a cowl hood is the supercharger is off-centered to the driver's side. It would either need the cowl off-centered as well or a really wide cowl.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version