The Mud Pit > Wrenching
Bill's 1 Ton TJ Build
RnnngTrails:
--- Quote from: Swagger on March 08, 2011, 11:38:40 PM ---What lift Did you decide to run. The Clayton w/ 5" stretch. I'm looking to that one to but cant decide if i wanna run that one or the 7" stretch double triangulated system. Choices, choices... :-\
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Rock Krawlers Kit puts you out to a 102" WB. With the 5.5" lift you fit 37's and with the 7" lift you can fit 40's. If I were gonna stretch, that'd be my route.
P.S.: Fun Fact about Rock Krawler... They give a "return customer" discount. I went to them for a few of their other parts (Lower Control Arm mounts and some tie rod joints/ control arm joints) and they gave me a discount since I had already bought one of their systems.
Bill3753:
--- Quote from: Swagger on March 08, 2011, 11:38:40 PM ---What lift Did you decide to run. The Clayton w/ 5" stretch. I'm looking to that one to but cant decide if i wanna run that one or the 7" stretch double triangulated system. Choices, choices... :-\
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I found a guy in Western Mass selling off new parts he bought for his YJ project. From that, I got the rear Clayton 5" stretch kit with high clearance mounts plus upper and lower spring perches, a new high lift jack (brand name), and front blisten shocks all for $1300.00. With all the extra Clayton brackets and upgrades that kit alone would have been over $1500.00, so I got a good deal there.
I wanted the 5" stretch because I am not going to comp cut it. I'll be pushing it to the max for requiring one, but it'll still be full bodied with a high line.
Their 7" kit is nice, but I didn't want the comp cut so it wouldn't work for me.
--- Quote from: skibum on March 09, 2011, 01:33:48 AM ---Thats a very rust free jeep noticing by the pics. You picked a good jeep to start this type of project on. Im looking forward to seeing this project done. Keep up the great pics of your progress. This thing is going to be a moster. You did say 37's before & now your going 38's. Now thats just going to be freakin awsum. Can't wait!!!
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The fact that it is so rust free is why I bought it. It could have been stock and in the shape its in and I would have bought it. I plan to keep it that way too. While I have everything out, its all getting a fresh coat of a POR-15 type paint.
The 38's were more a matter of luck. Stock they had 21/32" of tread depth. These are used and have 20/32" of tread remaining, so their basically new. The guy I got them from had them on a 4 door silver rubicon JK and went up to 40's shortly after getting them. Combine that with the fact that they are over $400.00 each with shipping and I got 5 for $1000.00, well I couldn't pass it up.
Here is one next to my 33's, lol.
Bill3753:
Oh, almost forgot to talk about the work I completed tonight.
No pictures yet, but the center skid is now removed, the transfer case is set temporarily set to the height it will be at for mock up of the rear 4 link and setting pinion angles, and about 3/4 of the factory suspension brackets on the passenger side frame rail have been removed. I would have got both sides cleaned of all brackets tonight, but the skid took longer then expected to pull due to an overly stubborn bolt that had to be cut off.
Swagger:
Sounds like some awsome deals fell into your lap. And those 38's are sick. cant wait to see it whin its done. Kinda like a preview of what mine will look like, except for the body color. ;D
Bill3753:
So, I got some more work done on it last night. All of the stock rear control arm brackets are now removed. I left the stock upper spring buckets on the frame for now so I can use them to help locate the new rear axle with the stretch. Once I have the new control arm brackets on the frame and the axle mocked in, I will remove them and notch the frame for the stretch.
I found that the easiest way to remove the frame brackets is to cut along the stock weld with a cutting wheel, but not too deep as to cut into the frame. Then, cut the bracket itself along its bends so it can be removed in sections. This allowed me to bend the brackets back and forth until the weld broke. If you do this, you’re left with about a third to half of the original welds which are easy to grind smooth. I'll post some pictures tonight of the results.
Last night I also took all the measurements I need on the new axle so I can properly locate the new control arm brackets, truss, and spring pads. I plan on making up an AutoCAD type technical drawing of where everything will be to post on here. I don't have AutoCAD anymore, so it probably will not be to scale. Nevertheless, it I think it would be nice to show everyone.
Today, I am going to be positioning the new rear axle under the Jeep and starting to mock all of the new brackets for the arms into place. With any luck, I may even be able to cycle the suspension by hand and check for binding.
I’ll defiantly post some updated pictures tonight. There should be some good ones.
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