« Reply #20 on: January 01, 2011, 03:50:55 PM »
Put a jack under the axel on one side. Jack up the axel till the front wheel comes off the ground enough so you can fit a 3 or 4ft pipe or bar under the tire then lift up on it several times while someone is looking at the ball joints. This will show the play in the ball joints. Then do the same for the other side. There should be very little play in them & I mean VERY little play.
Then to check your track bar you will not need a jack for this. Just have someone rock the steering wheel side to side just enough till the wheels are moving slightly & look at both ends of the track bar. There should bo NO play at the axel side. There is just a bushing at that end. Then the other end of the track bar that attaches to the frame is like a tie rod style & might have a little play but VERY little. At this time you can also check all the other tie rods on the drag link & link from pitman arm to drag link. Also you can see the play in your steering box. Your steering stabilizer is also very important so make shure that is tight & not leaking.
All these parts if warn can & will cause D/W. Then after replacing all the warn parts then a good alignment is needed.
And if Ball joints are warn extreamly bad then you will hear a clunk noise from that side. My friends 98 Dodge Ram 1500 had both upper & lower ball joints extreamly warn & when I went for a ride in it one day herd the clunk noise. Checked them & it was both on the LF. The Dodge Ram is like a big Jeep. Almost same style suspention just bigger.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2011, 04:02:27 PM by skibum »
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09 Rubi 4Dr,Compleat Heavy Duty Polly Performance skid plate system,Kilby Evap Relocation kit,Rampage front bumper,Swaybar motor flip,Clayton 3.5in lift w/steering corection kit,35in GY MTR's on 15in MB Wheels,Ace Enginering Rear Bumper W/Tire carrier,Prorock D44 Front axel,5.13s,cromo rear shafts