Author Topic: body lift  (Read 1480 times)

Offline gearhead1985B

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body lift
« on: November 17, 2009, 11:52:45 PM »
I just picked up a set of 2" body lift blocks that i am going to cut down to 1.25" other than new bolts what else should i replace while i am there
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Offline BlacXJeep

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Re: body lift
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2009, 12:11:08 AM »
headlight fluid? :D
Andy Doucette - A.K.A.(Douce)
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Offline BlacXJeep

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Re: body lift
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2009, 12:16:35 AM »
New bolts, and consider the possibility you may need to lengthen wires and control linkages, maybe longer shifter and t-case handles?
Andy Doucette - A.K.A.(Douce)
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Offline gearhead1985B

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Re: body lift
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2009, 01:00:29 AM »
and i am going to do a dana 300 install and belly up at the same time i just want to get it all bought before i attack my heep
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Offline BlacXJeep

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Re: body lift
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2009, 01:01:47 AM »
should be able to clear 35s with a little more fender trimming. Shes come a long way!
Andy Doucette - A.K.A.(Douce)
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Offline calvynandhobbs

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Re: body lift
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2009, 01:02:19 AM »
Your YJ is pretty clean, but you'll want to check your body mount brackets to make sure they are straight before putting the body lift in. I've seen several CJs and YJs that have cracked or broken brackets that aren't discovered until bolts snap or body mounts fall apart. For a 1.25" body lift I think the shifters and things will be alright, but you may want to read up on that. You can find write-ups as well as instructions from body lift manufacturers. At 2" I know some of the linkages need to be modified, but I'm not sure at 1.25".
1994 YJ on 37s

Offline kirksjeep

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Re: body lift
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2009, 01:50:58 AM »
For an 1.25" kit you will be fine with the shifter and steering.  You will need to make some brackets to lower the radiator fan shroud.  You will also need to cut down/ make spacers for the corners of the grill.  The best advice I can gove you is to start hitting everything with PB Blaster.  I was lucky I only had one body bolt break off and it was the easiest one to access, the one under the passenger side fire wall area.  If the ones in the back near the tail gate break off, well lets just say it is not an easy task and requires cutting some holes to get access to intall new nuts. 

I would recommend a 1" MML if you plan on a belly up skid.  You will need the room.

Are you going with the D300 flip kit?  If so, which one.  I eventually would like to go with a D300, but I can't justify 2 new driveshafts when my NP231 and rear CV shaft is still in good shape.
1992 YJ Sahara, 4.5 Rubicon Express ED Lift, 35" BFG MT, Custom Bumpers, SYE/CV Drive Shaft, OBA, Ford 8.8 rear, 4.10 gears, tie rod flip, 1"MML/BL
2002 KJ Liberty, 2" Lift, 31" tires/DD
2002 F-150 Harley Davidson 5.4L SC
2013 Explorer Sport
2006 Harley Road King Classic
1988 Honda Hawk GT

Offline gearhead1985B

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Re: body lift
« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2009, 06:25:24 AM »
for my d300 flip i will be using cable shifters and relocate the vent here are the shifters i will be using north west fab Reverse Cable Shifter Kit it is 300 bucks and i am also fabing up a flat skid that looks something like this


here is the link for the shifters
http://www.northwestfab.com/Shifters.html

to get the propper spacing to mate the d300 to the ax-15 i am using this adapter
http://www.cjoffroad.com/AX-15adapter.asp


i need a good use for the $1000 the navy is giving me to move to florida and i found it
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Offline Tsunami

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Re: body lift
« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2009, 06:30:38 AM »
keep the 2" lift
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