Author Topic: U-Joint  (Read 1573 times)

Offline zjorvis97

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U-Joint
« on: March 22, 2009, 03:34:33 AM »
Has anyone heard of the newer type of U-joints that do not use needle bearings, instead they use a different type of bushing or bearing inside but I cannot remember what. Does anyone know what they are called or who makes them. If anyone else has even heard of them.

Offline phoenix

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2009, 02:00:36 PM »
iirc, it's a bronze bushing. I know they were in a few of the mags a few years ago, but don't remember seeing them lately.

Offline HOT-ROD

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2009, 03:05:42 AM »
just go with the standard thing imo. if you have tough u-joints then if something breaks, it's going to be something more expensive. like a shaft or a yolk. a u-joint is a 10-20 min fix if you are familiar with them.


PaulW

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2009, 02:29:50 PM »
just go with the standard thing imo. if you have tough u-joints then if something breaks, it's going to be something more expensive. like a shaft or a yolk. a u-joint is a 10-20 min fix if you are familiar with them.



i have to agree, u-joints are so cheap, but even if you snap one every parts store usually has at least one year warrenty. 

Offline kirksjeep

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2009, 11:10:03 PM »
I think the CTM U-joints are the ones with rebuildable bushings but they are expensive, like $150 each, mabey more.  Depneding on hold old your U-joints are you either have the old 297 or the newer cold forged 760.  They are both the same size, but the 760 is something like 30% stronger.  You have a few choices for brand, Spicer, Alloy USA and parts store brand.  Alloy USA has the best warranty, 3 years.  Alloy USA also has greasable caps, which are stronger then the greasable body style.  I am a little bias since I just put the Alloy USA ones in my YJ, but I did some research first and for the $$ they can't be beat.  By far the best deal is Northridge 4x4.  Give Dave a call and he will hook you up.  I paid $29.95 each for mine, just tell him you are part of JT 4x4 in CT.

David Johnson
Northridge4x4 
360.340.0282
www.northridge4x4.com
 

While you are in there I also recommend getting a set of out axle seals since water and mud can get in the housing all the way to the seals by the pumpkin.  They are easy to instal when the axle shafts are out.  I paid $60 for a set from Northridge.


1992 YJ Sahara, 4.5 Rubicon Express ED Lift, 35" BFG MT, Custom Bumpers, SYE/CV Drive Shaft, OBA, Ford 8.8 rear, 4.10 gears, tie rod flip, 1"MML/BL
2002 KJ Liberty, 2" Lift, 31" tires/DD
2002 F-150 Harley Davidson 5.4L SC
2013 Explorer Sport
2006 Harley Road King Classic
1988 Honda Hawk GT

Offline zjorvis97

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2009, 11:45:05 PM »
Yeah, after I saw the price i decided to just get the cheaper ones. I was hoping I could find the ones with the sleve inside instead of the needle bearings.

Offline HOT-ROD

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Re: U-Joint
« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2009, 01:01:55 AM »
good call Kirk.